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Can we know these -usual suppliers- and coil types that are failing ??

 

It could save some of us an expensive or dangerous recovery

 

Its all well and good that they make acceptable recompense- but this is after the fact and admits liability thus ok to name on here.

 

Reputation works both ways !

 

H

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I've never fitted a new coil, still using 1970s original.

If it ain't broke.....

Peter

I have the same philosophy, whenever I see original Lucas coils/condensers/distributer caps at an autojumble I buy them. The coil on my car is not pretty being from the 60’s but it has never given me trouble in the last 5 years even in the close to 40 degree heat we had at the weekend here, I always carry a spare in the boot

 

Cheers

 

Alan

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My experience is of partial failures from two major suppliers- M*** and R******'*.

The total failure came from T*R*******.

I have no doubt that all are from the same wholesaler and that those who supply TR owners need to get together (probably impossible as they are competitors) and give their supplier a sound talking to. The longevity of older coils from the 1960's for example does tell a story doesn't it!

Anyway, my replacements are in the process of being fitted- just need to choose a location that makes the second coil less obvious. Will keep you posted.

James

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This where I put mine: post-12009-0-24497400-1530687532_thumb.jpg I made a plate to extend the mounting of the original.

 

Both coils are 1960's, & both work !

 

Bob.

Edited by Lebro
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Is there a need to be cryptic here.

 

Name the suppliers, we need to know. Moss I get, Revington I get T*R*******.?

 

If the suppliers know they will I am sure do something about it either that or they wont be selling many more if we know them to be suspect.

 

Iain

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Hi Folks,

most people are aware that the Gold Lucas Sports coil (Ha Ha ha) is dodgy and has been for 10+ years.

 

If you are unhappy about the products why not fill in and send through a Parts Quality initiative form https://www.tr-register.co.uk/pqi

 

You sort out your problem and we will investigate the quality with the supplier.

 

Roger

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The best place to mount the coil (or coils) is where the Works' Rally mechanics put them - on the inner wing opposite the distributor. It's not so hot there (even in the heat we had over the weekend in Lincoln), and it's very easy to swap over the leads should one coil fail.

 

I am wondering whether some of the coils which have suffered premature failure are of the type which is meant to be run with a ballast resistor. If such a coil is fed 12 volts continuously, it would get cooked very rapidly, as it is supposed to receive 12 volts solely when starting the engine, then about 8 volts thereafter.

 

Ian Cornish

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No, No. Just "standard" coils- intended to be very much like those from the 60's and the original fitment. Nothing to do with ballast resistors.

On the subject of naming names I see that it seems to be not the done thing on this forum. That may be to stop some from unfairly rubbishing companies that don't deserve it.

I am of the opinion that the TR Register operates for the benefit of its members, not a few (or any) advertisers in our magazine. If that's not the case then we my as well pack up and go home.

Therefore,the coil was from TR Revington as it happens, but I have to say this is the first time I have had any reason to send anything back to them that is faulty. Their stuff is generally a cut above the rest although slightly more expensive, its worth it- normally- but not in this case. As I said, they have been first class in dealing with the issue.

James

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I find it extraordinary that people who race & rally these cars do not have for sale quality basic items like coils etc! Are these things failing on their competition cars? We expect some kind of cheap foreign item from the usual suppliers but would hope for better from the likes of R.......n with their higher prices!

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Rather than naming the supplier of failing or unfit items, why not just post a photo and/or details of the item itself (i.e. manufacturer, part number, etc.) on here and inform the supplier privately?

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It's easy to blame the retailer for stocking rubbish but since the use of such coils is now limited to only the classic car market there can't be much sales volume left. I wonder how many different plants are still producing them? We could be down to just a couple of survivors producing as cheaply as possible and supplying all the Factors, so that wherever you go you are buying the same sub-standard thing but with a different name on it.

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A similar story here. I travelled to Lincoln in convoy with a friend also in a TR3A. He had an old coil fail a couple of weeks ago and had replaced it with an expensive new supposedly bullet proof new one. All ok up to Lincoln, about 200 miles but leaving the show ground Sunday it misfired all the way to our B&B and Monday morning it would not start. Replaced it with my old spare and we returned without any problems.

 

He will be taking it up with the supplier.

 

It was a Flamethrower.

 

Regarding Niall's comment I have been told that the Flamethrowers do not contain oil which is why they are less susceptible to heat damage.

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It's easy to blame the retailer for stocking rubbish but since the use of such coils is now limited to only the classic car market there can't be much sales volume left. I wonder how many different plants are still producing them? We could be down to just a couple of survivors producing as cheaply as possible and supplying all the Factors, so that wherever you go you are buying the same sub-standard thing but with a different name on it.

Hi Rob,

there is some credit to your comment but it doesn't hold true universally.

Since the onslaught of digital photography, wet film supplies have reduced dramatically.

 

However when a manufacturer drops out there is more profit for the remainers.

Fuji are one of the few manufacturers and produce superb quality colour film.

 

The problem is more basic. A wholesaler,whoever it is, is not paying enough and not specifying enough quality in the product.

 

Any duff items need to go back to the suppliers in an organised fashion - fill out a PQI form.

 

Roger

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It was a Flamethrower.

 

Regarding Niall's comment I have been told that the Flamethrowers do not contain oil which is why they are less susceptible to heat damage.

Hi Mike,the Flamethrower we changed yesterday was definitely leaking Oil.
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There are apparently a variety of Flamethrower coils. Some are oil-filled others (the higher voltage varieties I think) are epoxy-encased.

The Flamethrower coil I have is also oil-filled.

 

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/40000_volt.aspx

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Oil filling is common on high voltage transformers etc.

At British Airway I used X-ray machines that went up to 300Kv

The lump (Head) that emitted the X-rays had the transformer in it. It was filled with oil for insulation(and heat dissipation)

Because it would generate a fair bit of heat there was a capsule inside that would take up the oils expansion.

 

If ever the head got a leak it would squirt out oil and it had the most horrible stink.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Ooh er Roger. In the bad old days HV transformer oil was PCB - long since banned - which did have a nasty niff. Hope it wasn't that stuff.

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Ooh er Roger. In the bad old days HV transformer oil was PCB - long since banned - which did have a nasty niff. Hope it wasn't that stuff.

Almost certainly - they were 50's, 60's and 70's technology

 

Roger

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Are the Bosch coils advertised @ say Green Spark Co not a genuine item? I know that Lucas are copies but surely a Bosch or Lumention product are ok? Can somebody enlighten please.

Cheers.

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Hi,

It's not just classic car replacement parts that are poor, I have just finished working on my son's Renault, snapped cambelt 12 valves bent etc. This was changed 32,000 miles ago with a Continental belt kit with water pump, idler, tensioner four years ago. The orig Renault spec was 5 years or 72,000 miles.The aux drive belt changed at the same time also Continental still looks brand new.

All the pulleys, bearings and waterpump were still perfect but I have changed them again anyway, a mate rang me two days after ours snapped and told me his Mazda cambelt had snapped after 3 years and 24,000 miles! this had been changed by the dealer on purchase of the car.

Interesting thing is he looked up the number on the snapped cambelt and found it to be made in China with a recommended change period of 18months or 19000 miles.

I have changed Honda belts that still looked almost new after 70,000 and Volvo at 80,000 miles which did look worn, those I replaced with genuine parts and did at least 60,000 on them so perhaps that's the answer with moderns allthough heavy on the wallet initially.

 

Regards,

 

John

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