elclem1 Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Hi All has anyone had a problem replacing the seals on their TR6 /5 brake master cylinder? I have just opened my new seal kit to find the instructions don't even relate to the master cylinder that I have and the poppet valve is not complete, Thus I will have to use old parts to complete the repair to my cylinder seals. Not ideal when playing with brakes. Interestingly I also have a brand new Master cylinder again from Moss that try as I might will not allow me to bleed brakes. is it just me or parts are not supplied to a set standard anymore?. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Hi Andy It would be unusual for a brake master overhaul kit not to have all the seals required included in the box as that sounds a bit pointless, so I'd suggest you contact Moss. I have looked, and the number you quote seems correct. Regarding a new cylinder, bear in mind they are completely bone dry so won't always bleed easily. You could try bleeding the cylinder first by pumping the pedal a few times with all bleed nipples closed, and then slackening the outlet pipe ( watch out for fluid spillage) or drawing down the fluid from a bleed nipple instead of pumping. Sometimes just leaving the bleed nipples open will encourage fluid to slowly bleed through by itself, before bleeding properly. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 (edited) Another item from this supplier that will not reach TRGold status... Is the system filled with silicon fluid or regular fluid. Silicon fluid can hold tiny air bubbles. Advise her on the forum from a few years back after filling the system with silicon fluid: pour it into the container and leave it for a day (or two three) with the cap unscrewed. The air will find its way up to the surface. And after a few days it's possible to bleef the brakers properly. Edited August 18, 2016 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted August 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Hi and thank you for both replies. I do use silicon brake fluid, and have done on several restorations never with the same problems as this. I have noticed that the quality of things, especially containing rubber parts are not long lasting, however I would not expect to have to dismantle the poppet valve in the master cylinder to repair it. Other kits that I have purchased under the same numbers have contained a valve which is complete. More annoyingly the instructions are wrong so anyone purchasing this item would not be able to follow them to fit the new kit. Very poor in mho. I have complained to moss and they have said they will supply another kit, perhaps containing the same parts with the same problems, I wait with baited breath! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 18, 2016 Report Share Posted August 18, 2016 Hi Andy, did you get the correct kit. On the Moss Web Cat it shows another four kits at the bottom right http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/brake-system/brake-controls-hydraulics/brake-master-cylinder-servo.html Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted August 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 Hi roger, yes the correct kit was supplied, but before the poppet valve came complete now you have to reassemble it which I have never had to do before. I will post the outcome when done. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted August 19, 2016 Report Share Posted August 19, 2016 I can confirm all the problems. Especially the tipping valve seems to be a problem and often especially this item failed in the brakes I repaired. Seems to be mountain territory for the rubber companies to prefit it. If the cylinder is okay I would go the way to refurbish the old one. The reason is that I found several masters unsuitable due to bad quality. It would be unwise to fit a new cylinder dry and try to pump it to work. Normaly nothing happens and if there would be a lot of air in the system. If the dry cylinder is pushed like hell it will be ruined shortly. The trick is to compress the cylinder fully and feed it through the pipe connectors. Than the cylinder is fitted completely and fluid is in the tank. Than a little fast dipping can be done where again bubbles come out of the tipping valve and the front valve into the tank. With that trick I managed to make a repair on the road while a clubmate lost its brake. I did additionally a little bleeding by opening the connectors at the cylinders to the pipes. -Not perfect but for emergency it was fully okay- After that the GUNSON bleeding system is fitted and very easy one wheel after the other is bleeded by opening the bleeder screw with a clear hose pushed on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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