Ed209 Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Thought I would quickly change the plugs, points dist cap and rotor arm , wish I hadn't touched any off it as now have have the Car running rough and like it's not on all cylinders. Will spend tomorrow retracing my steps and swapping bits back. But in case my patience runs out anyone recommend a garage that is local to Ipswich that knows what they are doing with a tr that could help? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Check plug leads are in the cap in the correct firing order: 153624 The front cylinder lead #1 is usually at about 6 or 7 oclock in the cap, and then 5 etc are anti-clockwise to that. As it runs its probably just a couple that are swapped. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ed209 Posted August 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 Managed to find the problem. Plug lead order was all ok as i moved leads one at a time to avoid slip ups. Last resort put the old cap back on and it's all fine! Time to find a better quality replacement I think Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 Managed to find the problem. Plug lead order was all ok as i moved leads one at a time to avoid slip ups. Last resort put the old cap back on and it's all fine! Time to find a better quality replacement I think I use only Distributor Doctor for ignition parts. http://www.distributordoctor.com/ I avoid anything that comes in a Luc*s box. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 My 6 developed a mystery misfire a couple of years ago, running erratically on four cylinders. Â Turned out to be a breakdown of the distributor cap with tracking across the cap between adjacent HT lead sockets, fixed straight away by a new cap. The old cap wasn't that old, maybe 2-3 years. It's even more worrying if the same thing has happened with a brand new cap on your car. Â Could it be a topic for the PQI to look at?? Â Â Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 17, 2016 Report Share Posted August 17, 2016 Could it be a topic for the PQI to look at?? Â Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ed209 Posted August 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2016 Annoyingly the issue returned today. Spent most of the day swapping old bits back and forth but no further forward. Car idles very lumpy and clears after 2000 rpm + and then it's fine. Guessing ignition timing to check next Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Hi Ed, could it be something on the Dizzy - bob weights stuck etc (do they have bob weights!!) Â Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Annoyingly the issue returned today. Spent most of the day swapping old bits back and forth but no further forward. Car idles very lumpy and clears after 2000 rpm + and then it's fine. Guessing ignition timing to check next I'd gap the points then check timing. But butterflies gone out of sync can do that too. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
El condor Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Hi all, first of all a big hello as I'm a new member with old problems. I own a Tr6 pi CR from 1973, the problem: when startin the car cyliber 4&3 are not running, only when I drive does it seem to run on sll six, but it seems even after 30 mins of driving, at idle 3&4 are still not firing.l put new sparks in, new distributor cap, contacts and condenser as well as new ignition cables, and checked the injectors in a jar to see if spraying at idle, which they do. Where else could I look? I'm not really knowledgeable on car engines. Thanks for all the input. Pascal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 On 8/21/2016 at 9:48 PM, Ed209 said: Annoyingly the issue returned today. Spent most of the day swapping old bits back and forth but no further forward. Car idles very lumpy and clears after 2000 rpm + and then it's fine. Guessing ignition timing to check next Before going to other causes, it's likely to be something you touched. Check there is a spark at all plugs first when you have this symptom, double check the points gap and timing (my pulley is out so I had to make new marks) then you can look at other things like injectors and syncing butterflies after. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Gareth quoted a post from August this year, but I suppose he was repying to "El Condor" (!). EC, how do you know that 4 & 3 are not working?  As above, after installing new, careful checking that the right leads to right cylcinders (3 & 4 next to each other). John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
El condor Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 1 hour ago, Mk2 Chopper said: Before going to other causes, it's likely to be something you touched. Check there is a spark at all plugs first when you have this symptom, double check the points gap and timing (my pulley is out so I had to make new marks) then you can look at other things like injectors and syncing butterflies after. Gareth Ok will do. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
El condor Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 26 minutes ago, john.r.davies said: Gareth quoted a post from August this year, but I suppose he was repying to "El Condor" (!). EC, how do you know that 4 & 3 are not working?  As above, after installing new, careful checking that the right leads to right cylcinders (3 & 4 next to each other). John When idling I pull the the ignition cable to spark plug 3&4 and engine running as before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rogcastle Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Hi Pascal A little bit of history would help. How long has it been like this and did you do anything before the problem occured. This might point to the problem. I assume you put all the new bits on after the misfiring developed. If so it could be the butterflies out of sync. Are the spark plugs wet when pulled after idling and have you checked that 3 & 4 injectors have not been swopped round when put back. Best of luck Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
El condor Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 37 minutes ago, Rogcastle said: Hi Pascal A little bit of history would help. How long has it been like this and did you do anything before the problem occured. This might point to the problem. I assume you put all the new bits on after the misfiring developed. If so it could be the butterflies out of sync. Are the spark plugs wet when pulled after idling and have you checked that 3 & 4 injectors have not been swopped round when put back. Best of luck Roger Hi Roger, ok I will check, don't know how to adjust the butterflies, but first will do the simpler things first. The car was standing almost a year, so thought it gad dirt in the system, found that one injector wasn't working well so got new one, now they work well but problem persists. The car starts right away now which wasn't the case prior to changing the spark plugs/cables, distributor cover and contacts and arm, so defenitely better, runs also well, but idling only on four cylinders. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 2 hours ago, john.r.davies said: Gareth quoted a post from August this year, but I suppose he was repying to "El Condor" (!). EC, how do you know that 4 & 3 are not working?  As above, after installing new, careful checking that the right leads to right cylcinders (3 & 4 next to each other). John Sorry you are correct wrong post! I'm guessing you've replaced a few bits because of the problem. 2 hours ago, El condor said: When idling I pull the the ignition cable to spark plug 3&4 and engine running as before. Have you swapped injectors to different positions to see if the issue moves? Have you confirmed you have a spark on 3 & 4? What about your valves (tappets) been adjusted or checked? If you can adjust the idle speed with the bypass screw and bring it up and then pull the cable on each plug does it make any difference? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 (edited) This has been the best tool I've bought, will tell you if things are sparking or fuel. Â Â https://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/laser-ht-lead-ignition-spark-tester I know somebody will say its only 4 for a 6 cylinder engine, but they can be bought singly John Edited October 31, 2018 by John L Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted October 31, 2018 Report Share Posted October 31, 2018 Take a plug out of one of the misfiring cylinders, hold it against the block with an insulated screwdriver and make sure you have a fat , blue spark. If you do you're ignition system is probably OK. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
El condor Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 So went to vhevk a few things, what i've noticed is, at idle ( 700-800rpm) only four cylinders if I pull the choke up to around 1000-1100 rpm cyl nr 4 pops in, cyl nr 3 needs more rpm to fire. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 So it's quite lumpy until the other two cylinders kick in? Have you done a compression test on those cylinders? Possibly the throttle bodies (butterflies) might be out, a flow meter would tell you what's going on. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rogcastle Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Hi Pascal If I was you I would double check that 3 & 4 plugs are sparking at idle if they are I would then swop either 3 or 4 injector with another injector to see if problem is transferred to that cylinder. If it doesn't I would check the balancing of the butterflies with particular attention to 3 & 4. It's not too difficult using a 2 thou feeler gauge. You should be able to just slide it in at the bottom of each butterfly. Have you got a manual as that will help. Next maybe compression check or Tappets. By the way have you recently bought the car. Interested to know as to whether it was like it when layed up. Best of luck Roger  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted November 1, 2018 Report Share Posted November 1, 2018 Give the car an Italian tune-up. It gets the little air bubbles out of the PI. At tick over each squirt of fuel is a mere cubic millimetre or so. A tiny bubble can kill the spray volume leanig the mixture. Revving a stationary engine wont do the job, it needs to be loaded, so give it a blast. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted November 2, 2018 Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 23 hours ago, Peter Cobbold said: Give the car an Italian tune-up. It gets the little air bubbles out of the PI. At tick over each squirt of fuel is a mere cubic millimetre or so. A tiny bubble can kill the spray volume leanig the mixture. Revving a stationary engine wont do the job, it needs to be loaded, so give it a blast. Peter Not driven mine in a couple of weeks, and it was a bit sluggish when cold earlier today, didn't sound like all cylinders were firing, but after a bit of a mild blast it was running sweetly again, so certainly good advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
B Fitzpatrick Posted November 3, 2018 Report Share Posted November 3, 2018 Too many variables in the points/condenser system - you might consider electronic ignition solution see - so don't replace coil seems to be the message  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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