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I have been having a lot of clutch problems. Today I tried to fit a new flexible hose. It was a sunny afternoon and there was some spare time. So I carefully checked it against the existing.

 

There is an adaptor at each end of the stainless pipe. These adaptors are not identical. There is one long one and one short. If you connect the short end to the slave cylinder it does not reach far enough inside to contact the seat inside. This is wher my existing leak is coming from. If you use the long end it tightens down satisfactorily. However the short end is not long enough to fit through the bracket with a thin holding nut, and leave enough thread so that the connection is properly made with the internal seat at this end.

 

After a break for a quick drink, it seemed sensible to use the two long adaptors. When fitting them to the s/s tube I used some loctite thread sealer. But no thread sealer was used on the copper pipe or slave cylinder.

 

It is now fitted and I hope that I have done the correct modification.Can any one explain why they are made like this?

 

After assembling the push rod into my refurbished old slave cylinder it became clear that the rod was at least 1/2 " too long. This must be why the clutch was slipping. I was ready to have the engine out and replace the oil seal on the rear of the crankshaft. Tomorrow when I fill up with DOT4 we will find out.

 

Let me know what you think. Thanks

 

Richard & H.

 

 

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I had a similar problem in that the push rod appeared too long, until I realised that my 3A was fitted with the later TR4 type slave cylinder.

 

The early type are bolted to the front of the mounting plate while the later are mounted to the back. Hope I have got this the right way round and it makes sense.

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There is one long one and one short. If you connect the short end to the slave cylinder it does not reach far enough inside to contact the seat inside. This is wher my existing leak is coming from. If you use the long end it tightens down satisfactorily. However the short end is not long enough to fit through the bracket with a thin holding nut, and leave enough thread so that the connection is properly made with the internal seat at this end.

 

 

It is now fitted and I hope that I have done the correct modification.Can any one explain why they are made like this?

 

 

 

Richard & H.

 

 

I think the short end goes into the slave cylinder, the seal is made not at the end, but rather behind the hexagon (where the spanner goes) there is usually a copper sealing washer there.

 

Bob

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Thanks Bob, The short end when fixed in the slave cylinder was leaking at the join and I have no pedal. There was no copper washer and I am hoping that my answer of 2 long adaptors will make a better seal than a copper washer. The fitters clearly had a problem because the small adaptor has a damaged edge where the spanner slipped.

 

I am not sure how to identify the slave cylinder. But I have had my original sleeved by Past Parts and will try and bleed it today. It is mounted on the front of the bracket. When connecting the push rod, I used the middle hole for a long time. This meant that the push rod was at a sharp angle and the slave piston wore out on one side. I am going to try the lower hole which lines up much better. The slave cylinder could have been the wrong one which I bought at the IWE . Can anyone help me with the part no. for the TR4 slave cylinder which should be stamped on the casting, hopefully.

 

Thanks for the help so far.

 

Richard & h.

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Don't cut the push rod to length. I did that only to find that I had mounted the slave cylinder on the wrong side of the support plate. The workshop manual has an illustration that shows a TR2 fitment with a Lockheed cylinder. The TR3a has a Girling cylinder and fits to the opposite side of the support plate.

 

Rgds Ian

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Roger,

 

Thanks very much for the attachments showing the different positions for the slave cylinder. If you have an adjustable push rod it does not seem to matter which side the slave cylinder is fitted.

 

I have checked my manual and it specifies that there should be a copper washer at the end of the flexible where it joins the slave. This is where I had a leak and is maybe why I lost the clutch.

 

The slave cylinder that I bought at the IWE is part number 313430 and my original is 313340. This has been sleeved in s/s and the pedal has held up overnight. I will try a road test this afternoon.

 

Thanks Richard & H.

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So I traveled all the way from near Lincoln, IWE, to home which is 10 miles from the English Channel, with no clutch pedal and slipping clutch at over 40 mph.

 

The last repair was a new slave cylinder actually at the show, and I was hoping for a summer drive home. Instead it was a tense misery

 

I had almost given up trying to fix it myself and following some advice here and at a specialist in St. Leonards. Over the week end I replaced the flexible and fitted my old slave after having it lined with s/s. This afternoon I finally had a road test and it all worked really well.

 

The faults were

  1. Flexible to slave with no copper washer
  2. New slave has wrong number and possibly failed immediately
  3. Pushrod was 1/2" too long.

I need to have a word with the last fitter.Please advise me on which word would be best.

 

I was pretty depressed as I need the car in the summer and it is idle in the garage.My next telephone call was going to be to the historic racing garage nearby who would change the clutch and the rear oil seal for £960.00 plus vat and parts.

 

So this is my lucky day. As I climbed out of the car I found my missing spanner in the drive which I have been searching for for 5 days.

 

Many thanks to all the help on here and I am off to buy a lottery ticket to continue my lucky break..

 

Richard & H.( very hot today for him)

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