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Pete

 

I knew about how to use it from the info I got on Google, but wanted to get some first hand experience as some of the ads on the internet don´t do exactly what they claim.

Do you know if it works on one wheel only or do you have to do both for R&P steering? as I have a toe in problem with right front wheel wearing on the outside of the tyre, the left is perfect.

 

Dave

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Sorry Dave, you asked if anyone had any experience. That was my experience. Yes it works on individual wheels however it's the total toe in that comes into effect when driving so if you have uneven wear on one side I think maybe you should look elsewhere too, like unequal camber.

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Hi

I used one not long ago,i did each wheel individuely.I drove farward on flat service so as the stearing wheel was in the correct position.I used a maker to make sure the wheel stayed in the same position,I drove over the gauge and it gave me a figure for that wheel, then did the same on the other side keeping the steering wheel in the same position, I did this several times to make sure of consistancy,I then ajust each track rod to make sure that wheel ran at the correct degrees,each wheel would be half the total toe, which I found in another thread on tracking which converted from inchs to degrees.

I found very easy to use and it did show up the differances of toe between each wheel and the steering wheel

Cheers Richard

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I use them and they work very well though as stated you need a flat smooth floor and the room to go straight on and off it.

Stuart.

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I have a toe in problem with right front wheel wearing on the outside of the tyre, the left is perfect.

 

Dave

Dave, 'Shouldering' on one tyre only doesnt, to me, indicate a steering geometry issue. If it were, the rack would equalise toe between both wheels and shouldering would be the same on both tyres. I think your fault is more likely to be a collapsed wishbone bush on the affected wheel.

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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Dave, 'Shouldering' on one tyre only doesnt, to me, indicate a steering geometry issue. If it were, the rack would equalise toe between both wheels and shouldering would be the same on both tyres. I think your fault is more likely to be a collapsed wishbone bush on the affected wheel.

Peter

+1 for checking the wishbone bushes.

 

Mick Richards

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Peter and all

 

Thanks for the advice, I will check the wishbone bush

Stuart .

 

I have a flat cement area outside my garage on the car port floor leading to the closed garage, which has a tiled floor but that maybe too slippery for the gauge which may tend to move during the operation.

Dave

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If there are as many mini roundabouts in your corner of Spain as there are here in France since the French discovered the ´mini rondpoint anglais' then these may be responsable. For years I have been suffering premature wear on the rhs front tyres of my various BMWs - and my 3A

 

James

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At the risk of not so much being shot down in flames as, 'Blown completely out of the Water'

 

Peter is wrong in this case, and Dave may well have a simple toe-in problem, it depends on wether or not the tyre is 'Feathered'

 

The reason the steering geometry does not equalise the shoulder wear is road camber. What happens is the driver applies slight lock to keep the car straight ahead, on the continent this has the effect of running the left tyre straight and toeing-in the right tyre, hence the outer shoulder wear on the outside right, the opposite happens in the UK and on a car with Toe-in you lose the outer shoulder of the left tyre.

all this appiles if everything else is OK on the car, and the confirmation would be if the shouldered tyre shows feathering.

 

John.

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I spoke from experience. OSF shouldered on my RHD daily driver, in UK. NSF tyre was fine. Culprit was a OS w/bone bush, cant remember which, it was a long time ago.

Peter

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Neil/Pete - only if you have Toe-in.

 

Peter, Dave may well have mechanical issues, BUT if he has Right hand Front outer shoulder wear with feathering,

its classic Toe-in.

 

Just like if he had left front inside shoulder wear with feathering then thats classic Toe-out.

....and yes Pete, the opposite wear applies in the UK.

 

John.

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Peter and John.

Thanks for all your comments. First of all there is no feathering on either tyre.

I investigated the collapsed wishbone bush points but could not find any visual defects. It maybe worth mentioning that I put in a full set of those Super- Flex poly bushes when I did the rebuild 22000 miles ago and also the TR4 trunnions and top arms to match.

They are all regularly greased with moly grease.

Now I had a second thought and that could be my problem, so please let me have your comments on this. With the wheel well off the floor I tried to wobble the wheel manually side to side but found no play. However top to bottom was another story there was play of( at a guess )1/4"-3/8" in and out at the tyre

at the top, the good wheel did not have anything either way.

So I guess it is either the trunnion or top ball joint or both and if I were to replace these then it would reveal any bush collapse.

Your comments please gents before I order the spares from U.K. and have to wait for extended delivery as August is a no no for works and services, isn´t it always the way.

Must have it cured by third week in September as we are off to Switzerland in it for a week ending up at Morges fro the classic car show, our fourth visit.

 

Dave

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Err...I suppose it's to simplistic to ask will the stub axle nut tighten up any more if tightened and tried to be set in the approved manner as per the manual ?

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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Stub axle bearing surface is oval - ie has smaller diameter top to bottom than side to side - due to in life wear?

Pull the pull off and measure for ovality - about an hours job from jacking the car and getting the wheels off.

 

 

get you home bodge - remove and refit stub axle 90 degrees further round in V post. - bit like moving liner wear....

 

Peter W

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Could the top ball joint also give that symptom?

Does the top of the king pin when the tyre is loaded with weight of car sit 1/4 to 3/8 inch further out ? If yes, that means the steering arm will be about half that dimension further out than it should be. Hence the tyre will be pulled by the rack to a toe-in position.

So compare the 'camber' of the loaded wheels.( level ground, plumb line etc) Maybe the faulty one is canted out at the top??

 

I think , dont know, that wear in the stub axle will allow the top of the tyre to sit further in towards centre-line. And the tyre would toe-out and shoulder on inside.

 

Doubt it will be w/b bushes as they are new.

 

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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