Jersey Royal Posted July 31, 2016 Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Hi All, I need some advice, this 250 is fitted with zenith stromberg 175 cd-2 The choke cable departed from the dash, yet the car still starts from cold with out issue, so will need new cable and adjustment. My main query is how is the fuel leaned out or adjusted.. I have read about an Allen key type too that you insert into the top. Yet I can feel a slotted screw on the underside of the carb, isn't that the adjustment .? What's the difference between a cd-2 and cd-2s Thanks Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 31, 2016 Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Iir from my old SD1 Rover there's a tool that goes into the dashpot from the top. I might even still have it somewhere. Ah. Here it is http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RX1222 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted July 31, 2016 Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Guy if you ring Andrew Turner the Carb Specilist he will explain all,don't send me the Phone Bill. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted July 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Thanks Pete and Niall for your replays, most helpful. Cheers Guy I found my manual now on carbs so will read that see what I can understand Quote Link to post Share on other sites
250 Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 (edited) Hi Guy, Just a thought you may have done or know this but check the carbs if they have a red label on them they are emission controlled which I don't think are adjustable. Regards Mark. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm Edited August 1, 2016 by 250 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Hi Guy, Just a thought you may have done or know this but check the carbs if they have a red label on them they are emission controlled which I don't think are adjustable. Regards Mark. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm Hi Mark, Thanks for that I wasn't aware about the red label and fortunately there aren't any on these carbs. Thanks for the link All the Best Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Hi Guy, Original TR250 carburetors are not adjustable per se; you could increase richness by raising the float levels or by stretching the springs but that's about it. Consequently they won't serve with different cams having longer duration. What they do well is keep the mixture right on a correct original engine, allowing them to pile on miles and miles. In the day, 100K miles was something to crow about and TR250s often went well beyond that before needing engine overhauls ( as did plenty of Federal TR6s - 250K or more ). All the emissions Strombergs were set up for their respective engines and would work perfectly when new. Later ones were adjustable via raising or lowering the needles. Due to the fixed taper of those needles the tuneability is limited, so some have fitted S.U. carbs or different needles to the Strombergs. Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Hi Guy, Original TR250 carburetors are not adjustable per se; you could increase richness by raising the float levels or by stretching the springs but that's about it. Consequently they won't serve with different cams having longer duration. What they do well is keep the mixture right on a correct original engine, allowing them to pile on miles and miles. In the day, 100K miles was something to crow about and TR250s often went well beyond that before needing engine overhauls ( as did plenty of Federal TR6s - 250K or more ). All the emissions Strombergs were set up for their respective engines and would work perfectly when new. Later ones were adjustable via raising or lowering the needles. Due to the fixed taper of those needles the tuneability is limited, so some have fitted S.U. carbs or different needles to the Strombergs. Cheers, Tom Thanks Tom Very interesting, I plan to check if they are over rich with a colourtune and go from there, awaiting new choke cable and a couple of vacuum pipe fittings. Then will see. Hope you and yours are well. Cheers Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Hi Guy, Assuming you have an original spec engine, note that the proper spark plugs are different than those used in P.I. engines: they're hotter. The correct NGK plug is BP6ES. Champion's current model isn't known to me; it used to be N12Y. Running a P.I. suited plug will foul them in a TR250 engine. Temperature compensators should be closed when cold, and the throttle bypass valves can be easily checked for leaks. Not much else to these, but the Bentley Bible devotes some ink to them pp.221-233. Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jersey Royal Posted August 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 Hi Guy, Assuming you have an original spec engine, note that the proper spark plugs are different than those used in P.I. engines: they're hotter. The correct NGK plug is BP6ES. Champion's current model isn't known to me; it used to be N12Y. Running a P.I. suited plug will foul them in a TR250 engine. Temperature compensators should be closed when cold, and the throttle bypass valves can be easily checked for leaks. Not much else to these, but the Bentley Bible devotes some ink to them pp.221-233. Cheers, Tom Tom I got to grips with my tr3 and her su carbs, and now feel,confident to check these strombergs out Thanks Again for helpful advise Guy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
YankeeTR5 Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 If you do happen to have a set of the original non-adjustable carbs on your 250, its easy enough to swap in a piston and needle from a later set of Strombergs with adjustable needle. As in really easy. Unlike SU's, the piston/diaghram is not matched to the dome so interchangeable among different carbs isn't a problem. Given how common ZS's were, its very easy to get the parts, as even in the states the vast majority of ZS's were adjustable. As to different needle sizes, I've never had a problem with interchange among various TR6 models, so long as the engine hadn't been modified. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted August 2, 2016 Report Share Posted August 2, 2016 If you do happen to have a set of the original non-adjustable carbs on your 250, its easy enough to swap in a piston and needle from a later set of Strombergs with adjustable needle. As in really easy. Unlike SU's, the piston/diaghram is not matched to the dome so interchangeable among different carbs isn't a problem. Given how common ZS's were, its very easy to get the parts, as even in the states the vast majority of ZS's were adjustable. As to different needle sizes, I've never had a problem with interchange among various TR6 models, so long as the engine hadn't been modified. Be careful with that - the pistons are in fact matched to the bodies in that the " leak " is adjusted at the time of mfr. via a screw which is buried under a plug of epoxy. Swapping out the pistons will likely alter the behavior at idle, typically producing an incurable miss and/or wobbly drop to idle. If going this route I'd plan on excavating the leak balancing screws to correct matters as needed . Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 If you do happen to have a set of the original non-adjustable carbs on your 250, its easy enough to swap in a piston and needle from a later set of Strombergs with adjustable needle. As in really easy. Unlike SU's, the piston/diaghram is not matched to the dome so interchangeable among different carbs isn't a problem. Not true and why there are so many badly set up Strombergs where people have swapped parts, even getting the dome 90 or 180 out of orientation from manufacture can have a noticeable effect. I always grimace when I see people buying sets of polished domes to retro fit. You are correct that the piston/body interface is not critical, the piston damper tube to dome is critical! Keep domes and pistons as pairs! Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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