TonyC Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Hi all, Are there multiple manufacturers of oil pumps for the 6? If so which producer is best? All input appreciated. Thanks. TonyC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
len1 Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 (edited) dont know too much about pumps but i have bought one from C.Witor and he says that his ones are calibrated properly .(i think thats how he described it ) Len Edited July 30, 2016 by len1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR NIALL Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Chris Witor for an Uprated Pump. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Tony, Have you read this:- http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/OilPump.htmon blueprinting oil pump. Although I am sure great new oil pumps exist many threads on here have sorry tales with the old pump being re-installed as better than the replacement. So perhaps an hour spent with the old pump might produce the best results at zero cost. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 Here is a story of a replacement oil pump that fell a little short, and what was done to make it right: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-13/TR6-13.html Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whatmore179 Posted July 30, 2016 Report Share Posted July 30, 2016 All repro oil pumps are made by county and all have different tolerances. Be careful when or if your buying new. The engine shop who built my engine made one good one out of 3/4 new and old ones. I even bought a couple of second hand original ones which were better than new? How does that work? Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TonyC Posted July 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Enlightening indeed. Many thanks and keep the comments coming please. I have suffered from low oil pressure on an engine that had done only 5000 miles since rebuild. Replaced big end shells and oil pump - no difference. Now I am going to try and replace mains in situ, check the end float ( again) and thought about the quality of pumps, hence my post. Engine runs sweet, has good pressure early on but as soon as everything heats up its down to 30 psi at around 2000 rpm and a worryingly 10 at idle. Now at 14000 miles and decided to check instrument and found that the fitted gauge is reading a little high, so the actual 30 psi was reading nearer 40 so I was kidding myself that all was ok. Many thanks guys for all your input. Will research further thanks to your great references and comments. Experience is king. TonyC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted July 31, 2016 Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 Easy to replace the mains in situ. Just to get the top shells moving I gently push it with a small flat blade screwdriver, then push it round and out with a piece of plastic .....heavy duty large tie wrap is excellent. Smear some graphogen on the new shell halves and slide them round the journal. The front alloy block I didn't bother replacing the wood wedges....the new ones didn't fit! So I just used hylomar on the ends let it dry for 5 mins and refitted the original wood wedges and the block. If you need new thrust washers, get them from Scott Helmes in the states. Easily containable in a day including getting safe access. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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