4 Pot Brakes

[stuart]

Hello, lots of ideas on front brake pads, what is the view on rear shoes to complement the, I assume, better clamping force of the Hawk pads on the front, cheers, Andrew

I have 10" rear Alfin drums with OE asbestos shoes which helps a lot.

Stuart.

[DOG_MORGAN]

Where can you get mintex pads please thanks billy

[Andy Moltu]

Ebay - search for "MGB633 1144"

Beg to differ with those that say pad material doesn't make much difference.

Back in the day had to take to the hard shoulder as a set of Moprod pads in my mother's Metro simply didn't stop the car.

Had that same feeling when I put a set of greensnot in the 6 a couple of years ago and these were also jettisoned for a better quality pad (1144 which do stop the car)

[Peter Cobbold]

 

 

 

So many seek "better brakes" and blame the material, when the hydraulics should be considered, before the tyres which are the ultimate decider on stopping.

 

JOhn

And consider suspension improvements. Lowered ride height ( CoG) will increase the deceleration achievable before tyres lock up. Stiffer springs reduce the nosedive effect on wheel attitude and tyre contact patch area. Low-compliance w/b bushes also help ensure the toe-in stays true ensuring the tyre keeps adhesion, not sliding. And I can still lock up the fronts with standard brakes and either 195 or 205 tyres. The car now feels as if it just 'squats' under heavy braking, the nosedive sensation has gone, thankfully. Now the only problem is potholes...

Peter

Edited August 5, 2016 by Peter Cobbold

[Andy Moltu]

Now Mikey you might have mentioned the championship regs didn't allow vented 4 pots.?

[Motorsport Mickey]

Now Mikey you might have mentioned the championship regs didn't allow vented 4 pots.?

Aha, you fell into the trap.

The point I was making was that if a standard disc, calliper and road going pad is good enough for a 10 lap balls out race they certainly are for a road going TR. Also competition pads WERE allowed but I didn't get a benefit or use them until after 3 seasons and my Tuned 4 cylinder car reached it's zenith of development before I moved into the modified class.

 

Mick Richards

Edited August 6, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey

[simonjrwinter]

I put 4 pot calipers and larger vented and slotted discs on my car. They were originally from a track day car.

When I first drove the car I was disappointed that when I first braked, they felt exactly the same as bog standard brakes. However, when you REALLY need to brake hard, they REALLY stop you. All in all, pretty pleased with them as they offer the best of both worlds (to me anyway)

 

Simon

[peter clarke]

4 x pots on the front and larger cylinders in the back {morgan +8} work very well with std discs and drums.

[TriumphV8]

If you increase cylinders surface on the brake cylinders you

will reduce required brake force on the pedal and extend the

pedal travel to get the brakes work. -Simply a transmission-

 

There is nothing bad with that except that under race conditions

the time needed to make that travel is lost and the car is moving

several metres before brakes work. Its called swell time.

 

If you want short travel of the pedal you have to go the opposite way:

It needs larger master cylinder instead biger slave cylinders and to

achieve the nice lower brake forces ad a bigger brake booster.

 

Very simple, that is the way all modern cars go, easy to see if you

open the bonnet and take a look into the engine compartment.

10" boosters are pretty normal and even larger ones are in use!

[Steves_TR6]

If you increase cylinders surface on the brake cylinders you

will reduce required brake force on the pedal and extend the

pedal travel to get the brakes work. -Simply a transmission-

 

There is nothing bad with that except that under race conditions

the time needed to make that travel is lost and the car is moving

several metres before brakes work. Its called swell time.

 

If you want short travel of the pedal you have to go the opposite way:

It needs larger master cylinder instead biger slave cylinders and to

achieve the nice lower brake forces ad a bigger brake booster.

 

Very simple, that is the way all modern cars go, easy to see if you

open the bonnet and take a look into the engine compartment.

10" boosters are pretty normal and even larger ones are in use!

Nicely explained Andreas

 

It's the ratio of the area of the master cylinder to the area of the Pistons of the calipers/cylinders that determines travel.

 

I have 4pot calipers and pedal travel is a little long.

I tested a 1" master cylinder to offset this, it did but pedal effort was too high.

I've not tried a bigger servo, and probably won't as am happy with the setup, but that is indeed the next logical step.

 

Steve

Edited August 8, 2016 by SDerbyshire

[TriumphV8]

Thanks Steve, just to add that this modern brake boosters

came up with ABS because the chance to lock the brakes

rises a bit when the pedal force becomes that easy.

 

So if in case of emergency the ABS will keep the car on the road

where we with the big boosters should be aware not to pull the pedal

with all the force we have to keep tings under control .....

[Motorsport Mickey]

#23

"standard discs and calipers without a servo AND roadgoing pad material (admittedly a set of pads a race).

Once you can stop the wheel turning you don't need any better brakes, then it's all down to the tyre grip. "

 

#36

"where we with the big boosters should be aware not to pull the pedal

with all the force we have to keep tings under control ....."

"not to pull the pedal with all the force we have" for any of you driving gods out there who can do this please show me how, in an emergency situation you WILL lock the tyres and lose braking affect.

Mick Richards

 

Edited August 8, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey

[peejay4A]

^ My eyes have gone all funny.

Edited August 8, 2016 by peejay4A

[Andy Moltu]

Mick's taken up calligraphy.

[alan atkinson]

You did the Morgan rear cylinder upgrade already I assume?