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Gearbox pops out of 2nd gear when deccelerating


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Hi guys

 

I'm having a bit of an annoying issue with my TR4A (non OD) box. Usually everything is fine, unless i try to do some deccelerating in 2nd gear, when it decides it doesn't want to stay there and pops back to neutral.

It only happens in 2nd gear, and only when deccelerating, whether coming to a stop at the set of lights or driving downhill. When trying to hold on to the gear lever, it feels like quite a force that wants to kick it out of the gear.

 

I fear a box needind a total rebuild, but could it be something more trivial rather than worn shaft or damaged bearing?

 

Cheers!

 

Luka

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Hi Luka

You might want to look at the remote selector shaft assembly.

There are 3 which connect the gear lever to the selector forks.

Under these shafts there are small indents which locate small spring loaded ball bearings, these keep the selector forks in the correct position when changing gear.

I found mine had become sloppy and had exactly the same problem as you but in 3rd.

Removed the gearbox tunnel, dismantled the remote selector shaft assembly (be careful not to drop anything into the gearbox) and replaced the springs and ball bearings.

Worked fine afterwards and saved having to remove the gearbox.

Good luck

Peter

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Alternatively, It may just be that the dogs on the 2nd gear, and / or the dogs on the 2nd gear synchro hub are worn.

This happens after many gear crunches (beating the syncro, or lazy clutch foot etc).

I have had this on 2 X Landrover boxes, & a Morris 1000 box.

 

If the gear lever seems to "click" into place when engaging 2nd then it probably is not the selector mechanism.

 

Bob.

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Cheers guys for your input!

 

I guess i'll first do the easy checks - as Roger suggested. It does seem to click nicely in position, but perhaps when it pops out to neutral is when i haven't jammed it well into place when selecting 2nd gear due to gaiter pressing on the stick. Just hoping for this scenario. Then to lever mechanism as Pete suggested...

 

Otherwise, box off, (as Marko and Peejay have suggested - as it is pushing against me when trying to disengage from 2nd gear) - and thinking what to do with it. Since i'm in Serbia, there's really noone who's done a TR gearbox here, so it would make most sense to get the box and the diff sent to Mike Papworth to have them rebuilt. Or perhaps get an A Type OD Box as an exhcange...

Which i'll have to leave till winter - so far i've tackled rear suspension and brakes rebuild that i hoped would be done in 3-4 days... nearly 2 months later, the car is still missing its axles and trailing arms...

 

It's funny, it seems that every part of my TR has got a Pound Sterling sign stamped on it. Some parts even more than one.

Edited by Bulatovic
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Mine did this for 10 years and was worse when cold. When finally removed it was found the wrong size thrust washers had been fitted to the shaft with the second gear assy and one of the shifter forks had the raised pads worn down level with the fork resulting in second gear not being fully engaged. Has been fine for last 4 years since fitting second hand good condition fork and correct shim washers . (Work not done by me)

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I have the same problem in 2nd, but only for the first few minutes from cold, then no problems at all. Another thing for me to look at this winter.

Dave

====

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  • 1 month later...

A slight update - completely forgot to mention that in order to shift to reverse you need both hands to lift the lever (unless everyone looking at you and don't wanna look like a girl - which leaves you with strained tendons on the forearm trying to operate it single-handedly)...

 

Suggesting that the lever mechanism is to blame for popping out of 2nd on the overrun ?

 

Hope to do some work on it this weekend...

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Luka

 

I can´t speak for Mike Papworth but Pete Cox is your man for gearbox and overdrive repairs, (ask Andrew Smith) Pete came to my house in Spain ( as he has a holiday villa 30kms from me) and adjusted my overdrive which would not engage at all despite all known cures first, but he fixed it in position in the car.

Dave

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Alternatively, It may just be that the dogs on the 2nd gear, and / or the dogs on the 2nd gear synchro hub are worn.

This happens after many gear crunches (beating the syncro, or lazy clutch foot etc).

I have had this on 2 X Landrover boxes, & a Morris 1000 box.

 

 

Bob.

Hi Bob

 

Interesting you should mention "beating the synchro" which is a phrase I'd almost forgotten about but widely in use some time back!

 

The Moggie box was particularly bad for this as it was quite easy to beat the synchro. The mini was also known for it but I changed quite a few synchro rings in the Minor 1000, which interestingly never made it to a 4 synchro box, and the Mk1 Mini both of which used to regularly have mashed 1st gear changed. The Mk2 Mini went to 4 synchro in 1967, and is often retro fitted to the Mk1's.

 

I have not tried to beat the synchro in the TR4a, and not sure if you can!

 

Regards

 

Kevin

Edited by boxofbits
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