Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I am sure that some of you out there have issues getting under the car. To date I have used a trolley Jack and axle stands but its just not high enough and my nose is pressed up against the underside of the car. I don't have the option of a pit but I need to get it higher. I have a low 7 foot ceiling so even if I could afford the luxury of a post lift one wouldn't fit.Having said that I just found a low post one out there but its ludicrously expensive (iro £5,000). I have searched for a pair of synchronised long hydraulic ramps that would lift the car leaving the centre area clear, seems simple enough but cant find anything. I was wondering if I bought two sets of hydraulic ramps (£117 a pair on ebay) and simply drove the car up one set then trolley jacked the rear until I could get the second pair of ramps under the rear wheels then pump them all up? Is there a more simple but cheaper solution? I saw a car display ramp for sale at £200 has anyone used one of these to work on a car?

Any help appreciated

Thanks

Charles

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you have it pinned there on pricing.

The hydraulic ramps commonly sold by CJ Autos, (other makes available) run from about £250 new which then needs the rear of the car lifting.
Or the CJ small tilting underfloor small conjoined ramps which will lift about 400mm and you can have the car tilted or level running at about £380. Will give you central access (after a fashion) as long as you can work around some steelwork.
Then you can get the restricted scissor lifts (what I bought and my favourite) which will lift the car 1 metre and if you buy the separate platform model with individual hydraulic rams gives 820mm working space without any junk in the way up the centre of the car. Mine was a hire firm snatchback (not very much use) sold on e bay for £510 plus a generic hydraulic controller at £270 and is great. Mine is a Strongman Clifton model (market leader) about £2200 new delivered (check out their web they sometimes have used examples ) or the Automotech 7530 which is almost identical but comes in at about £1600 delivered.

Be careful both firms sell other restricted lift scissors (the Strongman model is the Tamar) which has a single ram hydraulic cylinder positioned in the centre which spoils the centre of car access.

 

Check out scissor lifts or garage lifts on the search facility there must 5 or 6 long threads with lots of recommendations which may suit you for other alternatives also.

 

Mick Richards

post-6602-0-00533100-1467566314_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Charles,

 

You can definitely get 2-post lifts that fit under a 7ft ceiling. There is one model that is sold by at least 2 companies, CJ Autos being one of them (although the other company is a bit cheaper). Worth a look.

 

Good luck

 

Paul

Edited by ptjs1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Charles,

 

Beware 2 post lifts, if the concrete poured underneath is not super quality (check out the requirements) it may well try and kill you. Standard 6" concrete floors a la normal garage supply by house builders are not the right quality, the footprint from the two post lift demands very high poundage (+3000lbs as I remember) capacity. The scissor lifts because they have nice large platforms at the base are much more forgiving.

 

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent thanks Mick and Paul.

Mick your lifts look like they lift in between the wheels is that the case? I would like long ramps that lift the cars wheels like a 4 post lift does and gives me access to all the central area.

Charles

Edited by cotswold
Link to post
Share on other sites

post-6602-0-07339600-1467789224_thumb.jpgHi Charles,

 

Yes the lifts ramps pickup on the spacing between the wheels allowing wheelfree access to all 4 corners. Because there is an 820mm gap between the ramps which gives good access down the centre of the car and TRs are a quite narrow car you may need to use a moveable crossmember across the ramps underneath to allow the chassis to be picked up for lifting (see picture). The independent suspension cars (Stag also) can pick up on the rear trailing arm frame onto the ramp direct (just) with the moveable crossmember at the front allowing full access where you need it. These restricted lift ramps (1 metre) allow you to use them in a small low height garage, mine is normal pent roof and you can get the full height on the lift. They also come supplied with small hinged (removable ) approach and depart ramps about 14" long which are secured by steel clipped removable rods (you can see them on my photo) which are capable of taking the cars weight and can be secured in the up position and then the car lifted with the wheels on them. I'm not sure if a TR will fit lengthways on these and give you what you want, you'll need to check out the spec sheets on them for dimensions.

Cutting the floor and sinking the ramp in makes it easier to live with, otherwise you WILL trip on the ramp sticking out either side of the car.

 

Edit: Automotech link attached, download the spec sheet for the dimensions, on their model it increases the ramp length by 530mm.

http://www.automotechservices.co.uk/products/as-7530d-garage-scissor-lift/

 

There are full length scissor lifts available but the costs will increase dramatically, most owners want to be able to access the cars "corners " with the wheels off to work there.

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a thought, if you have a restricted height lifting the car including the wheels will reduce the under chassis height available by about 4" depending upon tyres fitted, so lifting on the chassis gives you the best height with an overcar restriction.

 

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mick,

 

As the chassis to car roof height is fixed, surely it won't matter which way you lift the car re. chassis clearance when the car is raised to the top of the garage?

 

Paul

Edited by ptjs1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Mick,

 

As the chassis to car roof height is fixed, surely it won't matter which way you lift the car re. chassis clearance when the car is raised to the top of the garage?

 

Paul

 

Only if you don't have a height restriction.

 

If the lift cannot be used to full height because of overhead fouling, lifting from the tyres reduces the available underfloor height by the ride height of the car, the car is effectively taller by about 4". This reduces the amount of undercar space available. Lifting from the chassis up to the height limitation gives that 4" extra space underneath back.

 

 

Edit:

 

Workshop manual shows top of roof or hood is 50" from floor, this plus 1 metre (39.37") lift height gives overall height of 89.37 inches rounded down to 89" means 7' 5" when lifting from the tyres. The restricted lift scissor with it's 1 metre (39") height plus 46" of overall height from chassis to top of roof gives about 7' which suits the low overhead space.

 

Mick Richards

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
Link to post
Share on other sites

Mick,

 

If you lift the car until the roof of the car touches the ceiling of the garage, it won't matter if you've lifted it by the tyres or the chassis, the chassis will still be the same height from the floor of the garage. Or are we talking about different sorts of clearance?

 

Paul

Edited by ptjs1
Link to post
Share on other sites

The other possibility is a taller floor jack and taller stands - My jack goes to 23" and I use 4 6000 lb stands that start at 16" without extending. Takes me ~ 15 min to get the car up, and ~5 min to get it down again. There's sufficient clearance to do anything under the car.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mick,

 

If you lift the car until the roof of the car touches the ceiling of the garage, it won't matter if you've lifted it by the tyres or the chassis, the chassis will still be the same height from the floor of the garage. Or are we talking about different sorts of clearance?

 

Paul

Nope...same sort of clearance , just a different sort of rubbish coming out my mouth. It's not often I'm right and I'm wrong again !

 

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

I might be selling mine shortly if my house sale goes through and I have nowhere to go. Brought six years ago. Built by Laycock in 1950's, works off 13 amp ring standard house supply ( but it does draw a bit more ). Chain driven cogs spin around large screw threads. Easy to put up and dismantle, but a bugger to get through standard garage doors unless you tilt it at around 45 degrees. Lovely piece of kit, nice and simple, and spares are still available!

post-5733-0-74573600-1468402408_thumb.jpg

post-5733-0-38798400-1468402410_thumb.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Seanlan,

Just got back to this post and see that I had a PM but ts not in my box?

I have decided that I will use my height adjustable ramps plus higher axle stands and buy a new trolley lift that lifts the car higher and faster.

Thanks all

Charles

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.