Rear end noise

[pedlar17]

I have a strange grinding type of noise coming from the rear of my TR6

It seems to be there when accelerating up to around 20mph and then disappears. It seems to come from the rear passenger side. There are no knocks, so I don't think it's the ujs. I cannot feel any play in the hub bearing. Could it be time for new hubs.

Any insite into this would be appreciated.

[ijonsson]

Grinding suggests a bad bearing, so you probably already guessed it. Drive on and see if it gets worse and you will know for sure.

[pedlar17]

The only worry, is what will happen if it is the bearing, and it suddenly decides to give way.

[Peter Cobbold]

Try freeing off brake shoes a bit and seeing if noise goes.

Check shock-absorber arm not loose and touching wheel rim.

I agree with you, not wise to drive if it really is a bearing going,

though AFAIK the catastrophic failures have been on rebuilt hubs- do you

know the history of yours?

Peter

[Guest ntc]

The only worry, is what will happen if it is the bearing, and it suddenly decides to give way.

Jack it up any play? spin the wheel and take note.

[ChrisR-4A]

Check the 4 brake shoe retainers are still there. You can feel the end of the pin on the outside of the drum by reaching under the car, no jacking req.

If the clip comes off inside the drum it gets caught between The drum and brake shoe.

[pedlar17]

Hi Peter,

 

Not sure of the previous history of the hubs, they look ok. I have just replaced the standard lever arms for a spas conversion because I thought it might be the old Armstrong units, however the noise is still there. I will try freeing off the brakes a bit, but they have been freshly rebuilt.

If it is the hub bearings, and the exchange rebuild unit could be a problem, what is the recommended course for replacement?

[pedlar17]

I will check the shoe clips again in the morning, but I am pretty sure they are in position, as I checked the shoes first.

[Peter Cobbold]

I will try freeing off the brakes a bit, but they have been freshly rebuilt.

If it is the hub bearings, and the exchange rebuild unit could be a problem, what is the recommended course for replacement

Make sure the wheel cylinders will slide c 1cm to and fro by hand force. I lubricate with waxoyl plus molygrease.

Cant advise on replacement hubs, still using originals

Peter

[DaveN]

 

I'd recommend a new hub rather than a rebuild and would suggest a Bastuk one from TR shop in London.

Edited June 27, 2016 by daven

[Sapphire72]

Jack it up any play? spin the wheel and take note.

Just raise the wheel off the ground enough to grab the tyre at 9 o'clock & 3, then 6 & 12.

If the hub is okay, there will be no movement felt when you attempt to shake it.

 

Any movement at all, new hub.

[ChrisR-4A]

I had both rear hubs rebuilt with new bearings about 4 years ago, one of them only lasted 6 months before it started making a drone type noise. Had bearing replace and ok since but when it was noisey there was no play. Need to run car with rear swinging arms jacked up, stand next to it and you will soon know where noise is, could also be a UJ.

Take Care if running jacked up !

[Nigel Triumph]

I found a failing rear hub bearing on my 6 showed slight play at the wheel rims but didn't make any unusual noises. I replaced it before it got that bad.

 

If you do find you need to replace the hub, reconditioned are okay provided that:

 

1. The rebuild is done with good quality bearings, nothing that originates further east than Germany.

 

2. The reconditioner knows his stuff and has the necessary equipment.

 

I got a recon hub from Fitchetts, using genuine Timken bearings, and have full confidence, though it's only done a few miles so far.

 

 

Nigel