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Having successfully installed the new speedo cable I have now moved to the next issue!

 

I have recently had installed a new radiator - old one was seeping. At the same time a heater control tap was installed as the PO has plumbed it in to run constantly on. Even in the non-event of a British summer we seem to be having it was excessively warm!

 

So new rad (4lb rad cap) new heater plumbing what could possibly go wrong!

  1. Well first the hose from the stainless steel pipe running along the engine block kept blowing off. (Seems to have been sorted by roughing up the pipe to give the hose more grip - if this doesn't work I will resort to brazing on an olive to the end of the pipe!)
  2. The heater matrix started leaking! AHHHGGGGHHH!!
  3. Solution so far has been to remove heater completely and connect up the in & out pipes together (and turn off the flow using my nice new heater control tap!)
  4. Removing the heater unit was entertaining ..........
  5. Finally getting round to the question!: Is this a standard TR3 heater and mounting. It doesn't look like anything else I have found on the Forum! It has been mounted to the rear of the battery box with a plate to support it. It was installed in 1989 but may not have been new. It says it Smiths Model: R200 Code: FHR 2404
  6. Researching options based on threads on the Forum I am minded just to replace the heater matrix with a Clayton one rather than replace the whole unit as it will involve less faffing about.
  7. I am just wondering if the new radiator installation has increased the pressure and triggered the demise of the heater matrix!

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It is inreed possible that the pressure - or something else in the system - triggered the leak. The matrix is very delicate. My advise: indeed, get a Clayton! And carefully check the hoses where they connect through the bulkhead. Sometimes they tend to slide off from the pipe, causing hot water to run over your knees

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Thanks Menno!

 

Looking at the Clayton site, the replacement matrix http://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/214-circular-heaters-smiths-circular-replacement

is a separate item and doesn't incorporate the backplate. Mine has a backplate integral with the matrix and it has a lip on it so you can use the clips to connect the front plate with the doors and the demister port - which is rectangular on mine - to it.

 

[PS I'm not sure that a demister is needed in a TR3 they are so draughty!]

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That does not ;look like a factory fitted heater. It should have the two doors underneath and is supported by the dashboard stays.

 

Land Rover used the same unit and mine works very well.

 

The connecting rubber pipes have to be fitted carefully on the connectors through the bulkhead. They are just smooth pipe with no olive or built in raised ridge.

 

good luck,

 

Richard & H

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The connecting rubber pipes have to be fitted carefully on the connectors through the bulkhead. They are just smooth pipe with no olive or built in raised ridge.

 

It's worth re-engineering these two connectors on the inside! Safety first. The olives are a worthwhile addition.

 

Menno

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I dont bother with the Clayton version as they are very expensive and unless you uprate the fan or change to their "Classic" version they arent that much better than standard. This is the one that I fit, much more compact and very efficient. http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php/heating/3-5kw-lightweight-heater.html

Use vacuum cleaner hose to connect the outlets to the screen vents and the footwell vents are swivel-able.

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart, which way up do you fit it? I presume you utilise the dashboard stays to mount it? Or do you fabricate a bracket to fit it?

 

Another issue: My car seems to have the demister vent outlets missing! (Although the slots are there on the bulkhead below the windscreen there are no vents or ducting fitted underneath it!!).

 

I will have to negotiate the sacrifice of the vacuum cleaner hose with the "management".......!!! and without the vents there seems little point

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We rebuilt our heater with a new clayton exchanger, and find it fantastic, we do a lot of miles in our TR2, 2000 miles on the Vintage Sun Run in a chilly April in the masiff Central, Ardeche and Alps, and just back from another week in France, top was up a lot of the time because of rain and snow ( on the Sun Run) we were very cosy, and keeping the screen clear pretty much instantly, when the top was down our feet were cosy, it get too hot in there and when it does we turn the rheostat down or off, I would say its great and it looks just like the original if you don't look too closely at the matrix, Stuart is right about the cost but a little out on the performance in my view.

You need to put a swage on the bulkhead fittings to secure the hoses, easy if you have oxy acetylene, just warm up the ends and a bit of creative work with a small hammer gives somewhere for the hose and clip to grip.

Edited by TR24178
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Thanks Stuart, which way up do you fit it? I presume you utilise the dashboard stays to mount it? Or do you fabricate a bracket to fit it?

 

Another issue: My car seems to have the demister vent outlets missing! (Although the slots are there on the bulkhead below the windscreen there are no vents or ducting fitted underneath it!!).

 

I will have to negotiate the sacrifice of the vacuum cleaner hose with the "management".......!!! and without the vents there seems little point

The vents come up on Fleabay now and then or try the usual suspects like TR Shop/TR Bitz/TR Trader etc, the vacuum cleaner hose can be easily bought from white goods repair shops for cheap by the foot. Its mounted Rad uppermost and you would need to fabricate a couple of brackets but it gives you a huge amount of extra room behind the dash for wiring up and allows the choke cable to run straighter thus making it work easier too.Plus its cheap and well made in UK!

Stuart.

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Stuart, I think you are being a bit hard technically about the Clayton setup. I fitted an (expensive) kit from Mr Revington some years ago and am very pleased with the result. Things often get too hot. - although where I live I don't get to try it out in Arctic conditions.

 

James

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Thanks Stuart, at that price I am tempted! I could even buy a vacuum cleaner just for the hoses and it would still be cheaper!! :D

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I thought it might be Rich! easy to install a heater when it is in that state! ;)

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I dont bother with the Clayton version as they are very expensive and unless you uprate the fan or change to their "Classic" version they arent that much better than standard. This is the one that I fit, much more compact and very efficient. http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php/heating/3-5kw-lightweight-heater.html

Use vacuum cleaner hose to connect the outlets to the screen vents and the footwell vents are swivel-able.

Stuart.

Any personal recommendations for a 4 Stuart? (Mines in use all-year round)

Thanks, Andy

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Stuart, I think you are being a bit hard technically about the Clayton setup. I fitted an (expensive) kit from Mr Revington some years ago and am very pleased with the result. Things often get too hot. - although where I live I don't get to try it out in Arctic conditions.

 

James

Difference between the Clayton classic heater (not their replacement matrix which is good but V expensive) and this is this one still allows the ingress of fresh air into the heater via the vent flap instead of just re-circulating and heating the cabin air like an early TR2 one.For the price its great and the small size of it means you can get to all of the back of the instruments (replacing bulbs etc) easily. The original rheostat works great with the fan too.

Stuart.

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Any personal recommendations for a 4 Stuart? (Mines in use all-year round)

Thanks, Andy

I have the standard heater in my 4a and when I built the car I stripped it flushed the matrix and then re-built it with all new foams and I find it works very well though I have the US heater valve as well so it does get all the water through and with the vent flap open its fine for all weathers. One thing I have found is most cars have either grommets missing or loose in the bulkheads so there are gales blowing in which doesnt help!

If you want to get more out of it then you can get an uprated matrix from Clayton and the fitment of a squirrel cage fan will give it more blow.

Stuart.

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I have the standard heater in my 4a and when I built the car I stripped it flushed the matrix and then re-built it with all new foams and I find it works very well though I have the US heater valve as well so it does get all the water through and with the vent flap open its fine for all weathers. One thing I have found is most cars have either grommets missing or loose in the bulkheads so there are gales blowing in which doesnt help!

If you want to get more out of it then you can get an uprated matrix from Clayton and the fitment of a squirrel cage fan will give it more blow.

Stuart.

Thanks Stuart, appreciate your thoughts, blower is a bit asthmatic :)

Cheers.... Andy

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My 4 has standard heater. When I got car it was useless. Now it's more than adequate. Cleaning/flushing matrix made big improvement. Removing and cleaning out the connector thing that takes hoses through bulkhead made nearly as much difference. 50 years of sludge in there too! It's prudent to change cockpit hoses at same time.

Mike

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  • 4 months later...

Difference between the Clayton classic heater (not their replacement matrix which is good but V expensive) and this is this one still allows the ingress of fresh air into the heater via the vent flap instead of just re-circulating and heating the cabin air like an early TR2 one.For the price its great and the small size of it means you can get to all of the back of the instruments (replacing bulbs etc) easily. The original rheostat works great with the fan too.

Stuart.

Hello Stuart,

 

It seems very good idea (it is not expensive, works with original switch,and small size).

 

Do you have TR3 installation picture ?

What model do you have order ?

http://www.t7design....ght-heater.html

or this one

http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php/heating/heaters/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-side-vents-12v.html

 

Thanks

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You can see the installation Stuart did on my car here:

 

This is a link to the unit prior to fitting in its mounting bracket

 

https://jsk404.wordpress.com/category/restoration-details/page/2/#jp-carousel-445

 

And this is one with it fitted in the car

 

https://jsk404.wordpress.com/category/restoration-details/page/3/#jp-carousel-395

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Hello Stuart,

 

It seems very good idea (it is not expensive, works with original switch,and small size).

 

Do you have TR3 installation picture ?

What model do you have order ?

http://www.t7design....ght-heater.html

or this one

http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php/heating/heaters/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-side-vents-12v.html

 

Thanks

Its the first one http://www.t7design.co.uk/index.php/heating/heaters/3-5kw-lightweight-heater.html

One of the best little heaters I have ever come across and with it being so small makes all behind dash access great, including being able to have the choke cable go straight in and not bent round the heater.

Stuart.

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