grimboh Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Hi everyone, I am new to this forum having just bought a 4a IRS a couple of months ago. Other than oil drips from the usual places the car has been running well having had engine/gearbox/overdrive all rebuilt in 2009/10 and only covered 3500 miles since. However last time out, selecting 1st at about 2-3 mph (at a speed hump) it didn't engage properly and graunched until I had the wit to stop trying to engage it! I have become quite familiar with driving the car and I have no doubt that I had the clutch properly depressed. I have engaged 1st at slow speed before and the syncro has been fine. So this time I think the syncro failed in some way, But does still work on subsequent 1st gear engagements. However there is now a slight, but noticeable, whine to the gearbox as a whole - this definitely coincided with the above event. This is evident on idle when the clutch is engaged. With clutch depressed the whine stops. It's also noticeable while driving, although hard to hear in 3rd and 4th, most noticeable in 2nd, and somewhat in 1st though 1st always a bit noisier anyway. I think I know the answer to my own question - Is it gearbox out and strip down? I guess it is. Not worked on the mechanics of a TR before, but have fully maintained/rebuilt a race kit car with a fireblade bike engine in it. Taking the gearbox apart seems a bit daunting and also I suspect a lengthy elapsed time. My engine/gear related experience is limited to cylinder head off/on, clutches, carbs, etc on the fireblade. No rebuild experience. Advice please - attempt it myself or pay to have my nearby classic car garage sort it? Thanks, Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
len1 Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Hi Graham Personally I would take the box out myself and give it to a gearbox man...Peter Cox ..Birmingham area. He's the man... Len Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Hi Graham, I would first look at the assembly release bearing - shaft - fork and taper pin... which is a known source of problem. It's GB out anyway. If the GB needs to be taken apart, then it's a pro job indeed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanG Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 If you are reasonably mechanically minded stripping and rebuilding the gearbox is not difficult. Useful video on U-tube of guy doing the same and various other links on internet. No special tools just a couple of pullers made out of angle iron and threaded rod. Set of brass or copper drifts also useful. Speaking from experience and gearbox still working well so far! Alan. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerguzzi Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 If you are reasonably mechanically minded stripping and rebuilding the gearbox is not difficult. Useful video on U-tube of guy doing the same and various other links on internet. No special tools just a couple of pullers made out of angle iron and threaded rod. Set of brass or copper drifts also useful. Speaking from experience and gearbox still working well so far! Alan. +1 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Yes I also think it could be release bearing related. With first gear being the lowest forward ratio, good clutch release operation would be essential. As Stef said it is gearbox out anyway to check the clutch and release mechanism, and then take it from there. Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TorontoTim Posted June 16, 2016 Report Share Posted June 16, 2016 Not to sound simple, but the first thing I'd do is make absolutely sure that it has enough oil in it - you'd be surprised how noisy an under-lubricated gearbox (or diff) can be. Relatively cheap and easy, compared with a rebuild. If it's no better, you've lost very little. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grimboh Posted June 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 Thanks Gents for all your replies. Workshop manual ordered and GB coming out early next week hopefully. I'll post on this thread with my findings. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 (edited) you might want to take a look at this: Edit: added the part about tooling.... TRTrans01.pdf TRTrans02.pdf TranIntro.pdf Edited June 18, 2016 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 17, 2016 Report Share Posted June 17, 2016 Thanks Stef, that was a good read! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grimboh Posted June 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Yes, thanks Stef, really good detailed docs. Gotta get stage 1 done first, see how that goes and then decide whether I'm brave enough to open up the GB! I guess if I'm lucky it'll be clutch related, but I suspect not somehow. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 (edited) Has anyone remade the original design mainshaft circlip tool? Peter W PS TRF used to list it but it has now gone - could be one for NSF/SDF to commision as it fits all TR 2-6 + Stag + 2000/2500/2.5 Saloon/Estate PPS The register shop sells the circlip 'putting it back on tool' not the 'remover'. Edited June 18, 2016 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grimboh Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 OK, sitrep. Slow progress due to other 'stuff'. Checked the level a few days ago, all OK. So yesterday took interior apart to get ready to remove GB. Only just drained the oil now. Crikey! Very grey, and lots of shards of metal attracted to the drain plug - does not look good. SO just looking for an opinion on how clean the oil should look and how many shards might be considered 'normal'. Allegedly the GB was rebuilt 3,500 miles ago 2009/10. What has come out seems excessive to me and I would have thought GB oil should be clean after such a short life...? Assuming so it seems that something(s) was(were) not done correctly? Any views/knowledge gratefully absorbed! Cheers Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3md Posted June 23, 2016 Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Graham, Doesn't sound good - if it has only done the mileage you were told, the oil should be almost like new. Metal shards - do you mean chunks or a few fine "filings"? Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
grimboh Posted June 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2016 Hi Mike, No big chunks, like gear teeth, but lots of small-ish (a bit like small grit) bits and some longer but fine thin bits. Also just looked at the oil in daylight outside of the garage - significant bronze/brass colour that sinks to the bottom. Come to the conclusion that it couldn't have been refurbed at all. Possibly never in its life - car has done a likely authentic 100,000 miles. I think I'll have a go at stripping it myself and see how I get on - could take some time but prob worth it in the long run. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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