Paulsb Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 totally rebuilt engine bearings,bores new pistons and rings,cylinder head also rebuilt and converted to run on unleaded.anyone know what its worth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted June 13, 2016 Report Share Posted June 13, 2016 You can buy a complete "running"? engine in unknown condition for a couple of hundred or less. What you have is worth that plus the parts. The problem is that if someone does it themselves they know exactly what they have, but when they buy an engine that someone else has done, they never know quite what has been done, how well it has been done, and what if any short cuts were taken. So if I bought such an engine I would immediately strip it to find out what I had actually bought. So to me its worth the parts, to someone else who doesn't wan't the hassle of an engine rebuild and believes that what you are selling is genuine then it should be worth a lot more. As they say its worth what the market will pay for it! If it was me and I wanted to sell I'd list it with a sensible reserve describe as accurately as possible what has been done and what parts fitted (the more detail the better) and see. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Jones Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 (edited) It depends on whether there is any provenance with it. If built by a known decent establishment/builder with receipts and preferably a build record then it ought to be worth at least £1 - 1.5k as that is about what it would cost you to have buy the bits and have the machining done. More if warrantied. If done as a home build or even an unknown pro-build I would say that you always have to value it as the sum of the parts (supported by receipts) and do an internal inspection as a minimum before fitting. Like Alan, I'd always be inclined to take a look inside it before fitting, and I have done just this after a buying a rebuilt engine before, although in that case it was mainly because I wanted to change the cam and fit VP2 bearings. As it turned out it was just as well I did as there were a couple of issues with the assembly which would have quickly ruined it. In that case the vendor was quite accurate with his description of what was in there and many of the parts did get used in the final build, but the assembly was not correct. I don't think I lost out but didn't do as well as I thought I had initially! I've also seen a real horror story that was supplied by one of the "Big players" though doubtless contracted out. That was warrantied fortunately. Also depends on the spec. Mk1 (early or late - they have significant differences) or Mk2. Also a Vitesse or GT6 Mk2 is much more desirable that a late saloon lump with a ultra mild cam and domed pistons. Nick Edited June 14, 2016 by Nick Jones Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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