Guest Dutchy6 Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 I've a question. Does anybody has any experience with a steering conversion for a TR3? I believe Revington offered one??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
w_eden Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 There's quite a bit already written on the forum about rack conversions, if you use the search facility and search from the beginning you'll find many threads! As far as I know, however: TRGB sell a Protek built rack conversion, with the rack based on a TR7. This is a bolt on kit to the original mounts, with each mount attached to one end of the rack (there are two separate mounts). Moss sell a kit with a rack based on a old rover mini with longer track rods. This kit is also bolt-on to the original mounts, but the kit bridges between the two mounts - possibly a stronger arrangement, although I doubt it makes that much difference. Revington sell a kit that is also based on a TR7 rack, except this one has mounts that have to be welded to the chassis. Revington have put a lot of effort in to ensure that bump steer is minimised, and if you are aiming for competition it's the one to pick. You could get your steering box reconditioned, and a special spring loaded top fitted which should counteract some of the wear on the worm (as the worm will be more worn where it spends most of it's time) For road use, it's up to you, the cost whichever rack option you pick will probably end up being about 500ukp when you've added on a split upper column and mount, and some sort of new indicator stalk arrangement (with a rack fitted it's not at all straightforward to retain the centre horn push/indicator). On the forum lots of people will suggest you get your box reconditioned, as many enjoy the 50s style vague steering. A rack will make the steering much more direct and lighter, but it's entirely up to you! If I've got any of the above wrong, please feel free to correct me! I went for a moss rack after much deliberation, however the car is still in many pieces so I cant comment on how it drives. Will Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 Tim, I have the Revington conversion on my TR3A, if you want to have a look let me know, only 20km from Maastricht. Pro and con's of the different kits are too long to discuss on the forum. jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 Here is how it looks like. Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
w_eden Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 and here's the moss rack :: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 The first rack conversion on my TR3 was a Protek one : this is definitely not a TR7 rack. Because it had some bump steer, I replaced it by a secondhand TR7 rack, this rack is narrower, so longer drop links can be used. I replaced the TR7 droplinks with drop links from a Triumph 2000 saloon : these links are 19.5 cm long, long enough to eleminate the bump steer completely, after a lot of trial and error on the position of the steering rack (the bump steer is very sensitive to the rack position in the vertical direction, less sensitive to the horizontal position). The TR7 drop links are much too long and TR6 ball joints don't fit on it (coarse thread on the TR7 links) The uprights and suspension A-arms are TR6 and also the steering arms;The steering arms are bent (while heated to a red glow) towards the brake disks as far as possible : the ball joints almost touch the brake disks. The uprights are also slightly bent to get a 2.5° negative camber. It is safe to bend the uprights and steering arms when they are heated. It was a lot of work to get everything right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Dutchy6 Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 Thanks guys for all the fast reactions. There is lots off information I can really use. The conversions on the pictures both look very good!!! The winter is coming the ideal time for these operations. Maybe I'll come to see the real thing by you Jean, thanks for the invitation!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mychael Posted October 19, 2005 Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 I've had cars with both rack and steering box. The rack was really nice but that was coming from a knackered steering box. My current car has a box in good condition, running 155/15 tyres I don't find the steering to be heavy if you still have the original steering wheel. I've purchased the kit from Revington to improve the steering box even more but it's not on yet. Personally I don't consider a steering box (in good condition) to be vague. I've allready moved the indicator switch and horn due to faulty wiring so those things are not an issue for me. I've retained the centre so it all still looks proper, just the switches do nothing there now. Mychael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 Michael, with the Revington R+P, I have converted the front side of my 3a to TR6 specification with 1,5 deg camber and 3deg castor. For the time being I have KN's with 195/65 tyres. Yes some people will crucify me but I wanted to have the best available unvisible under a standard TR3A body Jean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mychael Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 I'm led to believe that even a Tr4 front end setup is improved over the 3 type. When I one day strip the entire car I might make the mod. Mychael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marvmul Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 Mychael, the picture of Jeans steering rack is showing that the Revington conversion kit is based on a TR7 rack. This is better for the suspension geometry than the Protek kit. The Protek kit has a rack from the classic Mini, and this is a little too wide. So if you've got a Revington kit, I think that you have the right parts for the conversion. The TR4 rack is wider than the Mini rack, I've seen once a TR4 rack fitted to a TR3A : the drop links were much too short (by about 2", because the TR4 has a 4" wider track than the sidescreen TR's). Some race organisers are forbidding rack and pinion steering in sidescreen TR's, then the steering can be made working well by fitting a good steering box and uprated links, vertical links with 3° castor (TR4 or TR6) etc. When TR4 or TR6 vertical links are fitted, the complete front TR3(A) disk brake system can be retained. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 Although I had been considering the rack conversion, the foregoing discussion makes it seem far too complicated for road use. I'm now almost convinced to stick with worm and peg, probably with the spring loaded top cover, unless the box is too far gone. Does anyone know how to measure acceptable sloppiness in a steering box which is already off the car? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mychael Posted October 22, 2005 Report Share Posted October 22, 2005 No, I don't have the revington R & P kit just the spring loaded top cover and an improved idler arm. I've not fitted any of it yet. I do however have in the wings an rack conversion kit should I ever need it, this is a bolt on mounting bracket and a ford escort rack. Mychael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest mikemd Posted October 23, 2005 Report Share Posted October 23, 2005 I would have thought that what counts as "acceptable sloppiness" is really down to the driver, and probably ultimately the MoT tester. Its amazing how you learn to drive round the bit of play in the w&p system. I have the improved Revington idler, plus bronze bushes, which made a definite improvement. Play in box, which doesn't have the Revington adjustable top plate, results at the moment in about 4cm at steering wheel rim (Motalita). Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mychael Posted October 23, 2005 Report Share Posted October 23, 2005 That's good to know.When I bought my car there was a bit of slack in the steering. I was able to adjust it out and it's been fine so far. It's fiddly to get to as we all know so they self adjusting spring loaded top appealed to me. What sort of life could one expect to get from W&P box in good condition? Mychael Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Matthias2012! Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Tim, I have the Revington conversion on my TR3A, if you want to have a look let me know, only 20km from Maastricht. Pro and con's of the different kits are too long to discuss on the forum. jean Hi Jean, I am new here and I know this is an old post, but your Tr3 caught my eyes since I am at the moment doing a ground up restoration and has also fitted the rack and suspension modified kit from revington. The shell is still at the spray boot and since the frame is now ready for new wheels - I was thinking of the 5.5 wire wheels with 185 tyres and from the picture of your beautiful TR , I assuming that you have the same set up? It would be nice to hear about your experience with the new feel and handling of the car. Also if any mods were done to make the wheels fit? Would be highly appreciated! My regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 The steering circle on a standard sidescreen car is not great, and most of the R&P kits make it even larger! As far as I am aware, only one supplier of R&P has managed to retain the original steering circle with his kit. So, it's worth asking the question when contemplating purchase. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Made a LHD conversion from BASTUCK and drove the car before and after. It was for a handicapped clubmate and was the best one can do for that car. Steering was like PAS and very precise. He choose BASTUCK because he could get that TÜV approved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 Ian, which make maintains the original turning circle ? Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 For the Dutch readers/drivers among us: it's worth checking if a bolt-on conversion is allowed for the Dutch MoT (APK)! Perhaps the rules have changed but about 10yrs ago, it wasn't allowed the fixed parts of the steering needed to be 'fixed' to the chassis. Here: welded. Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 19, 2016 Report Share Posted October 19, 2016 There are two "Weld on" conversions AFIK from Protek and Revingtons but obviously they are both irreversible so bear that in mind. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Graham, Revington - call him. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Thanks Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike ellis Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 Graham, I use an Escort rack which is at least as good as any of the conversions sold in the UK, the slight increase in turning circle does not cause me any problems. The TR Register Australia website has several articles on useful improvements. Talk to someone in Australia about the 'Goodall Rack Mount'. MIke Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red 6 Posted October 20, 2016 Report Share Posted October 20, 2016 I have experience of the Protek and the Moss rack conversions and I have also driven both. Both are bolt in and substantially made and both use mini racks so I am a bit confused by others who have posted re Protek being a weld in type. Both are well made and both allow the car to have a feel like a modern car with light steering, and a very pleasant experience it is too. Re the bump steer, I have not noticed any bump steer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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