PRFGDWRNCH Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Hi All, I am re-installing the fuel tank into my 1957 TR-3 which has the screw on cap and the extension that goes under the rear deck. The extension is the part that the cap screws into. I am having trouble getting the tank, hose, and extension to slip in under the rear deck. I have shortened the hose to the same length as original It seems that the three pieces have to go in together. Any suggestions? Thanks Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Dave. See previous thread on this subject: Bob. http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/56370-totally-stumped-fitting-filler-neck/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 (edited) Hi dave Jes, I concluded that shortening the rubber pipe was the only solution that seemed to work. In summary, this is what I ended up doing: 1a With tank in loosely (including your rubber or wool pads under), measure gap from top of tank to underside of deck 1b Cut rubber hose a little shorter than would be required to fully cover both tank and cap flange (as little as possible to make it work - I canny remember but say i think a cm (less than 1/2 inch)? worked for me) - you may need to try once and then reduce the hose again if it is still too tight 2 With tank out or tilted - push hose on to tank before putting tank back in 3 Also drop both clamps over now with tightening screws facing passenger compartment 4 Slide tank back in, but do not tighten main tank straps or hose clamps 5 With rubber pipe as low as possible, squeeze the threaded flange (into which the cap screws) under the rear deck (this may take some attempts) 6 Shuffle tank into a position where the flange and hose sit directly below the hole and partly tighten tank straps 7 my car has a thin leather gasket between flange and underside of rear deck - i guess to stop knocking - i re-inserted this now, together with a thin rubber grommet that i slid around the paintwork of the opening) 8 Once settled in - push hose up so that it is on as much of upper flange as possible and clamp that upper part only loosely as you may still need to turn it a little later 9 The longer neck of the tank should mean that there is still plenty of hose on it 10 Screw the filler cap on but not too tightly just yet - I found that with even a thin rubber grommet, there was barely any thread to use, so a made the grommet circa 60% thinner on a belt sander - in effect a one sided grommet if that makes sense ?) 11 Turn the cap to the desired opening position and tighten up from below - I had to do a mix of turning both the lower flange and the cap - which is why I think the PO had these thin leather washers 12 Tighten clamp to top flange - but not clamp on tank neck yet 13 Tighten tank straps 14 Now tighten clamp on tank neck 15 Refit breather, fuel outlet etc etc and pray it doesn't leak ! Good Luck Edited May 19, 2016 by McMuttley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PRFGDWRNCH Posted May 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 Thank you Bob. I had searched but did not find that thread. McMuttley, It is always good to get a response from someone who has been there and has conquered the same problem.Thanks for taking the time to write with your experience. Thank you both again. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted May 19, 2016 Report Share Posted May 19, 2016 It wouldn't hurt to immerse the rubber hose for a while in some really hot (near boiling) water, then get someone else to assist by playing a hair dryer (on maximum) on the hose as you manoeuvre it into position. But if the tank is full of petrol fumes, don't use a hair dryer as any spark from its motor could terminate the job! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 (edited) Sounds like fitting a Mini by-pass hose - only larger!! Use plenty of washing-up liquid as a lubricant to as its good on rubber Regards Kevin Edited May 20, 2016 by boxofbits Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 The "corrugated" Mini (or any other series A engine) bypass hoses were easier than the original straight ones. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 The "corrugated" Mini (or any other series A engine) bypass hoses were easier than the original straight ones. Bob. It was easier to take the water pump off on an inline A series then fit the bypass hose. - Use a rigid reinforced one! Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PRFGDWRNCH Posted May 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2016 Thanks for all the replies. The solution was a combination of suggestions. The extension would not fit in place without the hose . it was too long so it was shortened. Maybe my new felts were too thick. As suggested, I took several cuts off of the hose. It still needed To be shorter but I was worried about having enough material for the clamps so for the final solution I carefully used that 4x1 to give a little lift to the deck. In it went and all is good.Thanks again. The bypass hose on a MOPAR 225 was also a bitch! Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.