McMuttley Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 I can imagine all the tw*ts who drive around with go faster fog lamps but no headlights, now adding bars of badly adjusted LED's with which to blind all oncoming traffic. Grumpy rant over Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted May 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Purely for off-road TR adventures you understand, McM! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 (edited) OK, result time. Photos of the beams proved not so easy as there are not many deserted unlit roads near me, ended up using my garage door as a backdrop. The centre of each beam was way too bright for my camera, and is totally over exposed, however looking at the light levels outside of the beam gives a clue. Full picture - Edited picture just showing the edges of the beam - Looking at the edges of the garage door it can just be seen that the left hand lamp is slightly brighter. This confirms what I could see by looking directly at the lamps - the left one (relay mod) is just a bit whiter than the non modified right one. I have also done some voltage checks, I checked both sides - standard wiring, & via relay wiring. Both side were very similar. Tests were done on dipped beam only for convenience. No relays Bat volts 12.08V Left lamp 10.90V Right lamp 10.90V volts drop solenoid to both lamps 1.18V With relays Bat volts 12.08V Left lamp 11.73V Right lamp 11.77V volts drop solenoid to L lamp 0.35V R lamp 0.31V This shows an improvement in voltage at the lamps of 0.83V (left) & 0.87V (right) I then measured the volts drop across the 35A fuse (which in my case is the old horn fuse). 0.10V Finally the volts drop across the wiring from solenoid to the fuse including the ammeter. 0.19V Add these together and you get pretty close to the measured volts drop with the relays in use. So, to summarise, Standard wiring volts dropped to lamps = 1.18V Relay wiring through ammeter volts dropped to lamps = 0.31V / 0.35V Relay wiring not through ammeter volts dropped to lamps = 0.02V / 0.06V I have wired my relay feed through the ammeter, as not to do so would give false ammeter readings. But my conclusion is that for the tiny gains in light output is it really worth fitting the relays ? Probably not. Here are a couple of pics of the relay installation. Bob. P.S. Before anyone complains that one of my blue spade terminals is not fully on, that was so I could get a voltage reading ! It's fully on now. Edited May 10, 2016 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Thanks, Bob -- your data and conclusion about relays is really useful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 The main reason for the relays is to preserve the light switch contacts' integrity. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Looking forward to seeing those Bob - keep us posted! Many thanks for all the info on the TR4 lights Tim, excellent! Funnily enough, I've been keeping an interested eye on the LED bars from Rigid Industries over the past couple of years ... they've become the leaders of the LED pack by far, and their product list is incredible. The distance range on some of those largest lights is frankly staggering! I agree, they'd look totally **** mounted on the front of a TR . . . But, hmmm, they're SO good! Maybe - just maybe - I could sneak a 10" bar behind the grill on the 3A without anyone noticing??!! Cheers, Deggers You could go this way and not fill up the grille with **** that will make the car overheat. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-TRUCKLITE-PHASE-7-LED-HEADLAMP-HEADLIGHT-UPGRADE-2pcs-RHD-7-/222000427749?fits=Car+Make%3ALand+Rover|Model%3ADefender&hash=item33b041b2e5:g:jy0AAOSwUV9Wn3Ad Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 For those of a technical nature, here is the current wiring diagram for my '3: Note all my lamps are now LED's except headlamps. Peter. I like the Landie ones very much, but they are a tad expensive Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 (edited) Convert to LED headlamps and you will not need the alternator....... Has anyone out there tried LED headlamp bulbs in H4 lamps? link http://www.tomtop.com/one-pair-of-40w-4000lm-h4-led-light-headlight-fog-light-12v-24v-car-upgrade-conversion-bulb-beam-kit-6000k-white-k3481.html I am not convinced these 'dip' they just 'dim' Or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H1-H3-H4-H7-H8-H11-9006-CREE-LED-30w-80w-100w-Fog-Tail-Turn-Bulbs-Headlight-Lamp-/301933013889?var=&hash=item464c9c2b81:m:mxXCufJYMnYqTyaA6EEkXLA http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H1-H3-H4-H7-H8-H11-9006-CREE-LED-30w-80w-100w-Fog-Tail-Turn-DRL-Headlight-Lamp-/301921003171?var=&hash=item464be4e6a3:m:mLMR_vUePgAmoAf_Drpvqvg Does the '100W' type mean the sort of equiv brightness rather than power consumption. interesting description - Features:Application(Not Bright Enough for Car Headlight): High Beam , Low Beam , Daytime Running Lights , Foglights , Signal , Turn , Brake or Parking Lights ,etc Peter W Edited May 11, 2016 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Better price here Bob for a pair http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-JEEP-Wrangler-2x-LED-Cree-Headlight-Headlamp-Lamps-Lights-7-/162042327175?fits=Car+Make%3ALand+Rover&hash=item25ba79b087:g:dQ0AAOSwQYZWwgD- Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I may have been tempted if I had not already purchased 2 sets of headlamps, think I'll stick with the Valeo ones. I agree, the ebay ones probably don't dip. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deggers Posted May 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 I may have been tempted if I had not already purchased 2 sets of headlamps, think I'll stick with the Valeo ones. Me too, Bob. Those LED headlamps certainly look interesting Peter, but for the moment, I'm going to have a crack at upgrading the feed and relays etc on the new Valeos - and it'll give me a chance to practice, and learn more about the foibles of Lucas electrics. Huge thanks again for the technical info and diagrams Bob, and for taking us through the process. Very useful! Cheers, Deggers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted May 11, 2016 Report Share Posted May 11, 2016 Today I fitted new Cibies, with nightbreakers. Coming up, fitting relays and a left hand overdrive switch to be used to replace the foot dipswitch. All very exciting! Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 Today I fitted new Cibies, with nightbreakers. Coming up, fitting relays and a left hand overdrive switch to be used to replace the foot dip switch. All very exciting! Dave ==== Hi Dave I would very interested to learn how you will adapt the overdrive switch. I managed to do the conversion on my 6, but not with the overdrive switch, as that only has 2 wires. I managed to find a very similar switch ( I think it came off a Rover 3 Lltre - can't remember - too long ago). Anyway it's the same size as the overdrive switch body and I've got 2 cowls that take the over drive and fitted the switch on the left hand side behind the light switch. This switch has 3 wires 2 positions. Power in, then out - one for the dip and one for main beam. I have to say,much much safer than having to use the floor switch. I'm will also be trying to set up a TR5 that I'm rebuilding with the same system, but I can't find yet another one of those switches. Hence the interest in your task. best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 Hi Bill Attached should be an article from an old TRaction. It explains how to do it. Basically fit a new lefthand drive overdrive cowl and switch. Then there is a 5 pin changeover relay. The o/d switch operates the relay, which then alternately switches power between dip and mainbeam. Quite elegant. I should have mine done this week. Dave ==== Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted May 16, 2016 Report Share Posted May 16, 2016 Hi Dave Thank you very much - that looks like a very good solution.. I'm currently planning the for the wiring loom on the 5, so that's great timing and will be very useful. Best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dpb Posted May 20, 2016 Report Share Posted May 20, 2016 Completed the left hand o/d switch mainbeam/dip conversion today. A 10 minute job, cost :- one escutcheon, one o/d switch one relay, about 2 inches of cable, and some cable connectors. Doddle, and really neat. Dave == Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 20, 2016 Report Share Posted August 20, 2016 Having followed this thread I bit the bullet and fitted the Valeo lamps with Nightbreakers. Last night I drove the car for the first time in the dark since getting it back on the road last week. What a difference! Headlamps the Prince of Darkness would be truly blinded by Cheers guys Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jrrrrr Posted July 17, 2021 Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 Are these Cibie CSR'S? What part number? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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