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TR6 Wont start


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Have recently purchased a TR6 and have taken it out a few times and it always struggles to start from cold

 

Now Ive not used the car for 2 weeks, its garaged but won't start

 

Ignition key in , I can hear the petrol pump from behind me , battery is fine, it turns over but won't fire

 

Im in Burnham / Maidenhead

 

Not sure what to do.. any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Many thanks

Mark

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Mine takes quite a bit of cranking before it fires if it's been standing more than a couple of days. I put it down to the injectors leaking back and having to crank the metering unit to send fuel back to the injectors. I find using a slight touch on the accelerator pedal helps a little.

 

If you're really struggling try a squirt of easy start into the plenum before cranking. Use sparingly and only to check the car actually runs ok once started.

 

Gary

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Hi Mark,

 

Suggest that you also go back to basics and check out that you have a spark!

I broke down on the road last week, my immediate thoughts were fuel pump even though I could hear it. As I was in a dangerous road position called out the AA, (20 minutes, great response). Turned out to be the insulation on a wire inside the distributor had rubbed through and was shorting out. Embarassing!

 

My 6 was always difficult to start after a few weeks, but a new set of injection leads/Injectors solved the problem and it starts very easily, even after a few months.

 

Best of luck

 

Rich

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Mark

 

Try turning ignition on and listen to pump for about a minute then turn engine over about 6-10 times. If it does not start turn over again for a similar amount of turns and again and again until it starts, leaving a few seconds between cranking efforts but if no joy after say six or seven efforts start to look elsewhere for the problem

Sometimes if your pi system is not fully "on song" it can take a while for the system to bleed/pressurise if it has been standing a while.

 

Steve

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Make sure the choke cable is actually pulling the enrichment lever on the metering unit fully for a start and see if you have a spark. Fuel+Spark=Bang.

Stuart.

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Mark

I agree go back to basics and check you have spark. I have just gone down that route. Car was running rough exaggerated by the Phoenix twin box exhaust, it sounded like two three cylinder engines wanting a divorce! Plus it was choking up when hot until it decided to die on that big roundabout at Langley! Turned out to be the cheap nasty rotor arm (not fitted by me!)

Pop over Moss and get a red rotor arm and a new dizzy cap and a new set of plugs. If you've still got points I would also get a set of points and a new condenser.

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Have recently purchased a TR6 and have taken it out a few times and it always struggles to start from cold

 

Now Ive not used the car for 2 weeks, its garaged but won't start

 

Ignition key in , I can hear the petrol pump from behind me , battery is fine, it turns over but won't fire

 

Im in Burnham / Maidenhead

 

Not sure what to do.. any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Many thanks

Mark

Hi Mark

 

I've sent you a PM

 

Best Bill

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Mark,

 

If Bill has made this offer, carry on with him. I live in north Burnham and have owned my car from new and do all my own mechanics/electrics, if you want me to come round and check your car out. I am quite prepared to do that.

 

Tel: 01628 667259.

 

Bruce.

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It turned out to be several things

1st the rotor arm was broken. Thought that the Pertonix ignition had been damaged and the dizzie cap

Then fitted the spare points - given to Mark by the previous owner - they turned out to be naff.

Fitted new dizzie cap, coils, leads and all sorts. In the end after lots of head scratching, David had the right notion to try the Pertonix again, but this time the round sensor spacer, that part sits on the distributor shaft was put to it's rightful place and aligned with a little white dot and the end of the new rotor arm. Bingo... Well done Dave. we all missed the little white dot and this could/must have moved when the original rotor arm broke up. Mysteries..

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Gents

Hope Mark doesn't mind, I have copied his photo to help illustrate my question.

 

What's with the additional hoses attached to the air valve?

I can see that hoses go to the back and front of the bank of inlet venturi, but, where is the air valve mounted and why the modification?

post-12772-0-67433900-1462480420_thumb.jpg

Edited by wjgco
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Yes well! We we looking at that and can only think some PO had tried to get the idle air even to both sides of the TB's. Probably thought it a good idea and in theory possibly is! How effective though is a mute point The air valve itself as you can make out is just fitted to a short length of hose to a spigot on the air box.

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Wasn't that also a mod carried out by Mark Treadwell and referenced in Roger Williams book?

 

I was thinking of doing something similar when I eventually get around to that part of my restoration.

 

Paul

Edited by ptjs1
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  • 3 years later...

Hi all, 

My cousin drove over his tr6 from Germany and it has been sat in the garage for a couple of months. It won’t start. I have changed the battery and initially thought it was the fuel pump that was broken as it was making a slight whine. It just doesn’t quite start - as if no fuel is getting to the engine. My cousin tells me he recently fitted a new fuel pump so it can’t be that. Any advice or help would be much appreciated. I’m in Oxford Boars Hill OX1. 

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