WillBoa Posted April 24, 2016 Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 Hi to all , JUst off to weston on Classic car "Drive it Day " get the old girl some miles and fresh air in the grille , queries to ask ? 1. What type of oil recommended for TR3A converted Head ( 15/40 ) or 60/15) ? 2. Waterless Coolant ... what do people think ? REgards , Will Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted April 24, 2016 Report Share Posted April 24, 2016 (edited) Oil- stick with a classic mix 20-50 or whatever. The modern mixes in my opinion are too "thin" but you're likely to have many different opinions on this.Waterless coolant ...ha if you do a search ( always worth doing, the depth of replies is often staggering) you'll find some members using it and saying it's ok and other members saying it's the Devils brew and of more concern reports from some of the engineering and performance specialists saying they are not happy with such a concoction, citing the increase in temperature experienced by cylinder heads and engines in particular.Water and antifreeze for me.Mick Richards Edited April 25, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted April 25, 2016 Report Share Posted April 25, 2016 Will I have just drained my engine and radiator after 4-5 years (oops! just read the container says guaranteed for 2 years to 45ºC ) and was very pleasantly surprised at the clarity of the water coming out. No rust in it at all, but now slightly green in colour. I use blue Comma concentrated Super Coldmaster antifreeze and will certainly fill up with it again if it prevents rust forming. I am due to flush out the block over the next few days with a good hosing out, so I am hoping there is no rust in that area either. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted April 25, 2016 Report Share Posted April 25, 2016 Comma concentrated Super Coldmaster antifreeze as Dave and Penrite 20W/60 (bought at a good price from TRR shop: http://www.tr-registershop.co.uk/penrite-20w60-classic-triumph-oil-1981-p.asp). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Comma concentrated Super Coldmaster antifreeze as Dave and Penrite 20W/60 (bought at a good price from TRR shop: http://www.tr-registershop.co.uk/penrite-20w60-classic-triumph-oil-1981-p.asp). Brian Have you had reason to drain your engine and rad since you put in the Super Coldmaster? if so was there any rust in yours? and for how long have you had it in? Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted April 26, 2016 Report Share Posted April 26, 2016 Dave: My engine was rebuilt in 2007, including chemical cleaning of the block and new radiator and has now done 32,000 miles. I usually drain and thoroughly flush and back-flush the cooling system every year (5000 miles) with a hosepipe up every conceivable orifice (!) including the heater inlet and outlets. After an initial rake around inside the engine block tap (tap removed) there is usually a short period of rusty water but it soon runs clear. Missed doing it a year ago although I did check the strength of coolant solution and added a bit to get through the winter. Even so, when I flushed it early this year there was no more rust than usual. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JayeM Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 Just something else to think about with Waterless - one of our SP250 group had a radiator hose loosen at speed on the A1 on Drive it Day. By the time he noticed, via the temp gauge, many £££'s worth of coolant had disappeared, and he had no option but to fill with water to get home. He's now wondering if it's worth the cost of flushing with the special solution to get rid of the water then refilling with Waterless. An expensive day out! A few of us run Fernox Alphi 11 in our cooling systems - it's a central heating antifreeze/inhibitor solution safe for all metals and rubbers, and the inhibitors are meant to last much longer than those in conventional antifreeze. Our engines are ali heads on iron blocks, so the inhibitor is essential. Mine has been in about 4 years and all seems well, minimum discoloration of the solution when it's drained to check. http://www.fernox.com/files/Fernox/Content/PDF/English/Updated%20PDFs/Alphi%2011%205L%20V.001.pdf We were alerted to this via a Rolls Royce club bulletin about the dangers of organic antifreeze solutions, which makes interesting reading (and may have been quoted on the Forum before now) http://derekharris.com/pdfs/antifreeze%20in%202009%20v7.pdf Cheers, John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 Be very careful when flushing the Smiths circular heater as fitted to TR2/3's as if you apply too much pressure you'll rupture the heater matrix. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Be very careful when flushing the Smiths circular heater as fitted to TR2/3's as if you apply too much pressure you'll rupture the heater matrix. Tom. Hi Tom No heater in my car to worry about. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Lucky you Dave! Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) John's Fernox experience reminded me I plan to use this in water, without antifreeze. Once I've found a UK supplier. http://www.norosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm ""Because water transfers almost 50% more heat than glycol, best results will be achieved by using as little glycol in coolant as possible."" Peter Edited April 28, 2016 by Peter Cobbold Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 ... I plan to use this in water, without antifreeze... Do you have overheating problems that you need that added heat capacity, Peter? I might have thought a weak glycol/water blend for a modest amount of freeze protection would have been your choice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Do you have overheating problems that you need that added heat capacity, Peter? I might have thought a weak glycol/water blend for a modest amount of freeze protection would have been your choice. Don, I am being cautious. At 10 psi boost the heat flux will be roughly double stock. Combined with a block that has never been acid-stripped I may get overhot exhaust valves and maybe detonation or worse, preignition. The ev seats have been kept fat to help them cool, compensated I hope with highr ev lift. The bridge between the valves is a weak point and heat buildup there can lead to it cracking. As the car wont see temperatures below about 5C the lack of antifreeze wont matter. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 (edited) That makes some sense, Peter. Probably no need to use glycol coolants if you'll not see freezing temperatures. There is the other colligative property to consider, though -- boilover protection. If you're running hot there might be a balance between higher heat capacity of pure water and greater boiling point elevation from some level of solute like glycol. Next time I flush my coolant, I'm thinking to use one of the Evapo-Rust products to clean the block. It's kind of confusing, but there are apparently two competing companies licensed to use the Evapo-Rust name and formulations, and their products may or may not be identical. I've used Evapo-Rust from both. IIRC, I kinda like the guys with the hyphen in their web address better although it's not a big deal. http://www.evapo-rust.com/thermocure/ https://www.evaporust.com/cooling-system-cleaner Dunno if either product is available in the UK. There are knockoffs here without any form of Evapo-Rust in the name that work OK for general rust removal, too, but the branded stuff seems better. I've not used Evapo-Rust cooling cleaners yet, but I've used regular Evapo-Rust many times on rusty parts and I've been delighted with what it does. I'm sure it'll clean my system beautifully. For example, here are images of a section of my original heater hose before and after soaking in standard Evapo-Rust. Before: After: Edited April 28, 2016 by Don H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Thanks Don. I agree, I really should flush out the rust. TheEvapo-rust Coolant version is sold here by Frosts as Thermocure. But they do not say if it is to be used diluted or neat. If neat it is very expensive ! Shall delve deeper and try to find an alternative. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Thanks Don. I agree, I really should flush out the rust. TheEvapo-rust Coolant version is sold here by Frosts as Thermocure. But they do not say if it is to be used diluted or neat. If neat it is very expensive ! Shall delve deeper and try to find an alternative. Peter Thermocure is definitely a concentrate, Peter! Like a quart into gallons concentrate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Thanks Don. I'll order it. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 John's Fernox experience reminded me I plan to use this in water, without antifreeze. Once I've found a UK supplier. http://www.norosion.com/norosioncoolant.htm ""Because water transfers almost 50% more heat than glycol, best results will be achieved by using as little glycol in coolant as possible."" Peter SC Parts can supply no-rosion for about £10 a bottle Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 SC Parts can supply no-rosion for about £10 a bottle Rgds Ian Thanks Ian, I nearly ordered it but their web site is unclear on the p+p. It is showing £10 !! So I shall phone tomorrow. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave Larnder Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Peter Let me know please where you get the Thermocure from, I maybe going to try some after seeing that video about the Corvette. Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 Peter Let me know please where you get the Thermocure from, I maybe going to try some after seeing that video about the Corvette. Dave Dave, Its from uk ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Thermocure-Cooling-System-Rust-Remover-Radiator-Flush-946ml-US-Quart-Evaporust-/381464357013?hash=item58d10c2895:g:yygAAOSwo6lWQ1AI Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
arthur r Posted May 28, 2016 Report Share Posted May 28, 2016 I've always used bars leak for forty years Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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