SeanF Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Hi All, I am in the process of fitting a new rear inner wing and I have had to replace the back corner of my deck panel which I am in the process of doing. I need to know if I should seam weld the edges highlighted in the photo. These edges did not seem to have been seam welded on the old panel I removed but they were very rusty so it would appear that they were not sealed and water got in. I will be spot welding the flat section to the top of the inner wing but this is not yet done in the photos. I thought of just spot welding them together then sealing the edges with seam sealer, but I would appreciate any advice. Many thanks, Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 17, 2016 Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Originally just spot welded but I always lead over the edges then file the lines back in after so it looks as per original. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted April 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2016 Thanks Stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 What about that gaping hole at the diagonally furthest away corner? John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted April 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 All welded up now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted April 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Thanks Stuart.Haven't tried leading yet. Putting it off! Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Nice job Sean, Stuart what do you use to flat the lead . Can lead vertical work Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 I use a body file and then 80grit and yes I do vertical leading and upside down if required though that can get entertaining! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewP Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Nice work Sean. What spot welder are you using by the way? It look like a decent strong weld. The only home workshop type of one Ive seen being used didnt really fill me with confidence that it was producing strong welds. More a question for Stuart re: lead loading. How do you preventing the tinning or the paddle wax being 'folded' into the solder? The few times I have tried have tended to leave small pock marks on the finished surface visible after shaping and flatting back, which seems to be filled with the paddle wax. Im certain that If I were to paint over it, it wouldn't stick and sink/react/crack and look terrible. I ended up wiping the lead off as whilst I found I could shape the lead, it needed to be a smooth, crater free finish to make it worthwhile. Any advise? Thanks Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Nicely done! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted April 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Hi Andrew. Re my spot welder - its a regular 230v home power supply model. It was very kindly loaned to me by a fellow forum member. I believe its one of these: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/csw6t-spot-welder/?da=1&TC=GS-010110006&gclid=CKWOh66qmMwCFRS6Gwods3sM7w Its fairly old and battered looking but it seems to work very well. Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 Nice work Sean. What spot welder are you using by the way? It look like a decent strong weld. The only home workshop type of one Ive seen being used didnt really fill me with confidence that it was producing strong welds. More a question for Stuart re: lead loading. How do you preventing the tinning or the paddle wax being 'folded' into the solder? The few times I have tried have tended to leave small pock marks on the finished surface visible after shaping and flatting back, which seems to be filled with the paddle wax. Im certain that If I were to paint over it, it wouldn't stick and sink/react/crack and look terrible. I ended up wiping the lead off as whilst I found I could shape the lead, it needed to be a smooth, crater free finish to make it worthwhile. Any advise? Thanks Andrew I dont use any Tallow/paddle wax as I used to come across the same problem so I use a stainless steel butter knife to shape, no contamination and nice and easy to shape up enough to then body file to desired shape.If you get one of my lead filling DVD`s from the office you can see how I do it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted April 18, 2016 Report Share Posted April 18, 2016 (edited) I dont use any Tallow/paddle wax as I used to come across the same problem so I use a stainless steel butter knife to shape, no contamination and nice and easy to shape up enough to then body file to desired shape.If you get one of my lead filling DVD`s from the office you can see how I do it. Stuart. hi Stuart, Thanks for the heads up on the dvd.Mark. Edited April 18, 2016 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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