Malcolm Clarke Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Just in the process of trying to strip the varnish on my TR6 dash panel prior to re-lacquering I assume it is two pack, as nothing seem to touch it. (now wish I had'nt started.... it wasnt that bad !) Any ideas as to a stripper up to the job of removing it.? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ollie Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 Hi Malcolm I have just been through a similar thought process and came to the conclusion that it is not economically worth it, unless you really love your dash. If it is some form of 2 pack poly or similar normal paint strippers won't touch it unless you have a lot of patience. A hot air gun might work but you run the risk of damaging the veneer underneath. You probably have 3 choices - put your current one back and live with it, especially if it is not too bad; buy a new one at about £275 ( I think); or, make one yourself if you can. I am currently doing just that and it will probably take about 20 hours to complete but the new one is a much better fit than the old (repro) one. I'm using 6mm walnut 'veneer' so if it gets damaged it should be reasonably straightforward to repair. And, I won't be finishing it in 2 pack! Hope you managed to get yourself sorted. Ollie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 The original finish is very tenacious, but I found that methylene chloride strippers will remove it if you are patient. I will take multiple applications, and some scraping. The scraping is problematic, though, since the veneer is paper thin, and very vulnerable, especially in areas of short grain, like between instrument cutouts. It is very likely that once the finish is removed, the veneer won't be in any condition suitable for refinishing. Ollie outlined some reasonable options. One other one is to re-veneer the original dashboard. That's the path I chose: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-45/TR6-45.html Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted April 4, 2016 Report Share Posted April 4, 2016 I re-veneered my dash a few years ago, and finished it with Danish oil Very happy with the result, still looks great and easy to oil again when needed Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 I stripped mine using a hot air gun, but you have to be very careful as its a balance between softening the 2 pack and scorching the veneer underneath. I still decided to re veneer my dash in the end, but to be honest it was a faff and I'm still not happy with the finish think I would buy an of the shelf one if I was doing it again, but thats me and if you have read any of my previous posts you will know that my technical curiosity far outstrips my practical ability ! ATB Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malcolm Clarke Posted April 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 After 4 or so hours of pains takingly, mind boggling, careful sanding, have come to the conclusion that it might be cheaper in the long run to bin it and buy a new one. Just waiting for the pins and needles in my sanding arm to wear off. You live and learn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 (edited) Hi Malcolm I really enjoyed the job or re-veneering my dash. At the time I thought I might not be able to do the job, as never done anything like it before, but with patience it wasn't too difficult. I sanded the old dash, used iron on veneer and scalpels to cut the holes. Danish oil for a satin finish, and furniture crayons for the cutouts. It looks good two years and a bit later ! My thinking at the time was to have a go, and worse case buy a new one if I bu66ered it up! Turned out well and gives me pleasure to know I did it myself, am easily pleased So for the cost of veneer and crayons, about £40?, I'd recommend trying ! Regards Steve Edited April 5, 2016 by SDerbyshire Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pjc615ukuk Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 I've just seen a pair of dashboards on ebay, and they're up to £45. They look good for the money... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hi Malcolm. Have a Google in your area for re veneering companies. I had mine done for £40 cash then took it to the paint shop for them to add a few coats of 2k lacquer. Very pleased with the results and had a huge choice of veneers. Good luck Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 5, 2016 Report Share Posted April 5, 2016 Hi Folks, £300 is a lot of dosh for a piece of wood. However is it economic to do it yourself. Probably not. Many hours of work that could go wrong at every turn plus an amount of expertise that you may not have. As mentioned removing the old lacquer is not easy. I used a hot air gun that worked OK but was slow. 12 Hours apprx. The coating is difficult. I used a Rustin's 2K product and brushed it on. The brush strokes would not go away. Definitely a spray job. You can get aerosol 2K lacquer that may do a good job. Every step of the way costs money - so £300 for new dash is becoming within reach. £300 becomes an attractive option - Last week-end I bit the bullet and bought a burr elm dash - it really looks stunning; I shall keep it in the garage. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spit_2.5PI Posted April 6, 2016 Report Share Posted April 6, 2016 Hi Malcolm I really enjoyed the job or re-veneering my dash. At the time I thought I might not be able to do the job, as never done anything like it before, but with patience it wasn't too difficult. I sanded the old dash, used iron on veneer and scalpels to cut the holes. Danish oil for a satin finish, and furniture crayons for the cutouts. It looks good two years and a bit later ! My thinking at the time was to have a go, and worse case buy a new one if I bu66ered it up! Turned out well and gives me pleasure to know I did it myself, am easily pleased So for the cost of veneer and crayons, about £40?, I'd recommend trying ! Regards Steve Steve, Danish Oil - now that's an idea! Did you have to fill the grain as you applied it and if so, how? Regards, Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
russellbaldwin Posted April 10, 2016 Report Share Posted April 10, 2016 I'm also going through dash re-veneer using teak. The original lacquer is very stubborn - I found the best approach was to use a sharp wide chisel by hand to remove it. Mine had a couple of cracks in the lacquer which gave me the start to chip away using the corner of the chisel to make best progress. The lacquer flys around the shop but didn't take too long once in the groove. This isn't the most sympathetic removal technique and you will probably end up with a couple of small divots or chipped veneer - but if you are replacing anyway it's not a problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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