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TR6 mark up


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I asked for a quote the other week for welding and replacing panels, which I already have, on my bare shell together with chassis work, plus painting shell and chassis - £22,595 - 95; this is the second estimate at around this price, Just to put things in perspective.

 

I feel that there will be a steep curve upwards, or maybe not, in ones welding skills over the coming winter!

 

Jon.

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I feel that there will be a steep curve upwards, or maybe not, in ones welding skills over the coming winter!

 

Jon.

That`ll be the time where you will realise why the quote was that high....................

Stuart.

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That`ll be the time where you will realise why the quote was that high....................

Stuart.

 

 

Couldn't have put it better myself...

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Mechanical repair = spanners and thorough approach. Skill helps but with a decent workshop manual most people can build an engine (farming out grinding just as a most workshops will.

Body repair = Skill and time consuming.

 

Cost of repair and value are not a linear relationship. You can spend thousands and thousands on a car but even when finished but that doesn't mean you will recoup the costs. Some don't quite come to terms with the concept that they bought a £10k car, spent another £20k and it's isn't worth £30k.

 

Always buy a car with the best body you can find as that's where the money will go. Engines, gearboxes, suspension all have finite costs because you can simply replace the bits in the end with spanners, sockets and screwdrivers. Rusty tubs and panels are not so easy as many of the available parts will need fettling to get them to fit and may take as much time as cutting out and welding in new metal.

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Looks like Waldi is going to be a rich man hahahahhaa

Hi Rich,

I WAS a rich man, once upon a time.

That was before I started on my TR6 body off project????????.

Cheers,

Waldi

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Mechanical repair = spanners and thorough approach. Skill helps but with a decent workshop manual most people can build an engine (farming out grinding just as a most workshops will.

Body repair = Skill and time consuming.

 

Cost of repair and value are not a linear relationship. You can spend thousands and thousands on a car but even when finished but that doesn't mean you will recoup the costs. Some don't quite come to terms with the concept that they bought a £10k car, spent another £20k and it's isn't worth £30k.

 

Always buy a car with the best body you can find as that's where the money will go. Engines, gearboxes, suspension all have finite costs because you can simply replace the bits in the end with spanners, sockets and screwdrivers. Rusty tubs and panels are not so easy as many of the available parts will need fettling to get them to fit and may take as much time as cutting out and welding in new metal.

Couldn't agree more. Nearly anybody can do mechanicals, brakes, steering, suspension etc. Achieving a good standard of bodywork let alone an excellent standard is beyond the vast majority of us.

I am restoring a long door TR2 which I bought with the body already largely restored with new floors and good panel alignment and gaps.

It still ended up costing me $25,000 (Oz $$s) just for the body work to Concours standard. And that was cheap as they spent 320 hours on it, it should have been $32,000 but he stuck with his quote.

A mate had a body shop do a full restoration on the body of his TR2. Over $50,000 Oz. Just for the body to an excellent road going standard.

A TR6 body is a lot more complex than a TR2.

The only reason I am restoring a TR2 is because the long door cars are very rare, especially down here, and it will give me a great deal of personal satisfaction to create a fine example.

It helps they fetch very good money.

Always buy an excellent body car, the mechanicals are easy to do.

post-9306-0-01209500-1528445415_thumb.jpg

post-9306-0-56574100-1528445455_thumb.jpg

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Couldn't agree more. Nearly anybody can do mechanicals, brakes, steering, suspension etc. Achieving a good standard of bodywork let alone an excellent standard is beyond the vast majority of us.

I am restoring a long door TR2 which I bought with the body already largely restored with new floors and good panel alignment and gaps.

It still ended up costing me $25,000 (Oz $$s) just for the body work to Concours standard. And that was cheap as they spent 320 hours on it, it should have been $32,000 but he stuck with his quote.

A mate had a body shop do a full restoration on the body of his TR2. Over $50,000 Oz. Just for the body to an excellent road going standard.

A TR6 body is a lot more complex than a TR2.

The only reason I am restoring a TR2 is because the long door cars are very rare, especially down here, and it will give me a great deal of personal satisfaction to create a fine example.

It helps they fetch very good money.

Always buy an excellent body car, the mechanicals are easy to do.

What did you end up using for piping in the end John?

Stuart.

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What did you end up using for piping in the end John?

Stuart.

For the core I used the rubber tubing that holds the fly screen in a screen door. It was the right diameter and shaped well. I then found a marine supply place and they had a marine fabric in a nice red.

It isn't possible to get an exact match so I went for a colour that provides a bit of contrast. It seems to have worked well.

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excuse my ignorance but how do you tell the difference between long door and not, is it just that the long door goes back to the wheel arches??

They are longer the other way as in Top to Bottom,Short Door you see the Cill Long Door you don’t.

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