openroad Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 I am in need of an original 4TR Regulator as above please, if anyone has one hidden away in the garage, Thanks in anticipation, Cheers, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 39/40? http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/electrical-system/charging-system/alternators-mountings-fittings-lucas-15ac-15acr.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Hi Conrad, you could buy a decent alternator for the cost of one of these regulators.!!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stevecross Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Why Conrad? Steve Ps Think I might have one though. Will have a look Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2016 Why is because i fitted an old style alternator with a new type box, not noticing the Polarity change, and the ignition light stayed on.......have tried it with an Original 4TR box(from another car) and it worked just fine.. You are probably right roger, but was going for the original look ! Thanks, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tomtr250 Posted March 28, 2016 Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 Hi Conrad I might have one of these somewhere, let me know if you don't get sorted Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted March 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 Thanks Tom, i will do. Hope all is well, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Cochrane Posted March 28, 2016 Report Share Posted March 28, 2016 (edited) Hi Conrad I'm currently investigating modern alternatives that would fit into the 4TR casing for my E-Type. I've had endless problems with the ammeter shooting off the scale. I've replaced everything including the ammeter itself but to no avail. So I now suspect the modern 4TR repros are the real culprits. I've just bought this:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191436616878?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It's made in the UK by Durite who have a good reputation for quality components. I'm going to test it tomorrow and if successful substitute it for the 4TR internals. This will require some surgery to make it fit but the encapsulated electronic part should squeeze inside. I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers Alan Edited March 28, 2016 by Alan Cochrane Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Hi Conrad I had one at stoneleigh in the £1 box! I don't know if either of my little helpers sold it or not, if it's still there it's in jeffs van in the UK. ...................... It won't be a £1 now though lol. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted March 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Thanks for you input Clem and Alan, i will be interested in your experiment Alan.....and clem i am certainly interested at a £1. hope they didnt sell it !!! All the best, Conrad, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Cochrane Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Well the first test was a failure. The Durite Regulator failed to energise the alternator field coil, but it did stop the ammeter bouncing way past the charging side of the scale because of this. Obviously not a long term solution. This regulator has five connections:- 1-green-field 2-red-ignition 3-yellow-ignition lamp 4-blue-N/S 5-black-ground I used terminals 1,2&5 but I'm now wondering if one or both of the other two terminals should also be connected. Anyone have any ideas and what does N/S stand for? Cheers Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) Forgive me but this sounds a bit like a poke and hope exercise. Given that I would guess that the N/S wire is a battery sense wire which can be bridged to terminal 2. I would also connect up the warning light but you need to find out if the other side of the lamp needs ground or +12v and for that you need a circuit diagram from the vehicle that this regulator was intended for. E & OE of course. Edited March 29, 2016 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Cochrane Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Pete I have been trying to get a wiring diagram on the interweb but so far no luck, Good idea about the voltage sensing for the N/S terminal. The ignition lamp connection is purely optional as far as I can tell. I can check the voltage at terminal 3 once the ignition is switched on. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 The 4TR box was used on early series1 XJ6 as well so surely Jaguar breakers should have an original one. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 Do you know they are dated? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted March 29, 2016 Report Share Posted March 29, 2016 As is most Lucas kit . . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Cochrane Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Well I failed the second time round with the Durite Regulator. The N/S terminal actually stands for neutral star point. So this has to be connected to the star point on the stator windings. Fortunately I had a spare 11AC alternator to look at. Unfortunately the star point is cunningly hidden in amongst the windings and iron core. I'm now on the look-out for a Voltage Regulator that does not require this connection and will fit inside the 4TR casing. Life's never easy. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted April 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 Sounds complicated Alan, but have every faith in you .. Cheers, Conrad. PS , i have located one ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 Glad to help Conrad Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Cochrane Posted April 19, 2016 Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Conrad Did you find that the original 4TR regulator was up to the job. I gave up on finding a modern alternative to the regulator and ended up buying an NOS one from Ebay. Surprise, surprise the ammeter needle stopped performing it's mad dance and exiting stage left never to reappear. It now oscillates slightly at tickover and is steady, showing a slight charge, at anything above 1000rpm. So I'm now finally satisfied after five years of frustration and replacing all the charging circuit components without success. The two repro 4TR regulators I bought, both caused wild ammeter needle movements so I'm now looking for another original as a spare. So beware of repro parts-they may look the same as the original but often that's where the similarity ends. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Hi Alan, we keep learning as we go along this dusty triumph road ! The one I bought didn't work on the car is intended it for, tried it on another and hey presto, so basically I swapped and both cars are happy, both 5's. All the best, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted April 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2016 Hi Alan, we keep learning as we go along this dusty triumph road ! The one I bought didn't work on the car is intended it for, tried it on another and hey presto, so basically I swapped and both cars are happy, both 5's. All the best, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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