McMuttley Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 I have one of these 3 stage POR15 tank clean/prep/seal kits to do at the weekend (assuming I can get the freekin tank out) Any recommendations / warnings from anyone who has been through the process. There is no obvious structural rust, just a general speckling having had the tank emptied since the carbs came out in October, so it seems daft to flush it all through mi new carbs ps what the little hole for that I can see ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 That would be the tank outlet. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 Yep -- it's the way rust is transferred from the tank to the carbs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 I did the 'part one' cleaning with por15 on a motorcycle tank last weekend! I used twice the amount of cleaner recommended, diluted with hot water. Much 'sloshing about' , waiting, repeating, and brushing the bits of the tank I could reach with a toothbrush gaffer taped to a coat hanger, removed much of the ****. The tank is from a 40 year old Honda that's been standing for 10plus years. The cleaner came out very Brown! I then added some oil to some petrol and sloshed that about aiming to coat the inside of the tank a bit. Noticeably less '****' coming out of the tank and into the fuel filters :-) HTH Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 McMuttley Make sure you follow the instructions. Do not plan to finish it over a single 2 day weekend (especially this time of year)!!! Reasoning. Aside from the cleaning/flushing/cleaning/flushing/cleaning/flushing/cleaning/flushing, it is Very Important to dry it (as per the instructions) before you coat the inside. Then dry it again, with a hot air paint stripper gun or similar for some good few hours. There will still be water/cleaner in the seams. When I did mine, I 'pre-tested' some dry and 'damp' steel offcuts, and they are right, it doesn't stick so well to 'damp' steel. The coating on the dry piece, however, would require removal with an angle grinder!! Make yourself a cover/plate for the sender unit hole. NB If you buy @ 1Litre (975ml), grit your teeth, you will drain/throw away at least half as you finish, this is hard to face, but, so is life...... The smaller tin (500ml) is not enough to (reliably) slosh around the entire inside before it starts to go off. Make sure you do not block the drain hole(s) when draining the topcoat away, again, it does not come off/out of the small outlet hole when dry!!! I used a syringe and some silicone tubing to extract the last 'puddles' before it dried/became too gooey. You should end up with the inside looking like it has been painted in Hammerite (yuk!) or similar, but it seems to work a treat!! Good Luck, and don't get it on the Living Room carpet!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 Throw in a handful of sockets/stones and give it a good shake to loosen any rust that's about to come off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 Good idea! Count them before you throw them in tho'!! ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rogerguzzi Posted March 3, 2016 Report Share Posted March 3, 2016 Or another rattle to worry about or not because they all rattle/ Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Unless you really need to do it wait till warmer weather before doing it .. As John has said the tank needs to be bone dry before applying the final coating. I bought a heat gun from screwfix for 12 quid and had it blasting away inside the tank. I used boots wax earplugs to block off any threads..You reallydont want to get any por15 final coat on internal threads as it would be extremely difficult to remove. Not sure what tank your is but on the TR6 tank if you try to turn it upside down to empty the excess por15 the filler cap hole runs inside the tank with a lip of about 1/2 inch so you wont get it all out. I used a sytinge with plastic straw (as recommended by John) to prevent pooling of the excess por15 final coat on the bottom of the tank. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Just coat the threads with PTFE spray - POR 15 or anything else won't stick to them . . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted March 4, 2016 Report Share Posted March 4, 2016 Being small, gravel will get into the corners - and you need to shake the tank vigorously and in all directions for quite a while. It's hard work, but worthwhile. You could have a look at TR Action 144, or Section K3 of the Technicalities CD, but bear in mind that when I wrote the article in 1997, the Moss product was just a one-can treatment. Nowadays, it's 3-part. That said, it's been in the tank for 19 years and still seems OK - can't be bad! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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