Gearbox front oil seal.... Which one!

[Richiep]

Hi All,

 

My TR6 has for some time left its mark (an oil puddle!) whenever it has been for a run.. ;o) But as it is quite bad, I've decided it's time to do something about it!

 

I suspect it's the front gearbox oil seal, as it drips from the bellhousing, and is definitely gearbox oil.

I've not yet got the gearbox out, but plan to soon..

 

I remember reading an article in an old TR Action, by Tony Lindsey Dean I think.. that there are some replacement oil seals that are better than others..! Or some to avoid?.. I don't want to be doing it again soon afterwards..! Soooo.. Does anyone know which one (brand?), or where I should get one from.. Or even ones to avoid..!

 

Any pointers would be helpful..

 

Thanks in advance..

 

Richard

[Guest ntc]

Over to you Stuart

[jamesStag]

Hi Richard,

Sounds like you have exactly the same issue that I had (gearbox oil dripping out the bellhousing). You may be glad to hear that it might not be the oil seal. On splitting the gearbox from the engine I found that the nose cone in the front of the box for the thrust bearing carrier was just loose. hence oil seeping out between the casting faces.

So a simple replacement of gasket and re-tighten and all was well.

Of course while its apart do check for any other worn parts. If any of the seals look suspect, or clutch parts and the infamous taper bolt on the fork to cross-shaft then inspect and replace any of these while you are there.

 

Good luck,

Cheers,

James.

[John L]

I've just done this and used the Moss seal, it does have a double seal, one for the oil and one for the dust in the clutch cover, make sure all the six bolts have copper washers to seal the bolts as they are open into the casing oil.

Could also be the plate that covers the counter shaft at the bottom.

My spigot bush was also very worn, due I expect to the fact that no dowel bolts had been used at some stage, also there was no chip shield on the other side of the input bearing, this was probably flooding the seal as well.

There is a drain hole in the tube/snout, make sure its at the bottom when refitted.

John

[stuart]

You do need the double lip seal as Neil and I found out when tracing an oil leak on Ems car but you also need to have a careful look in the nose extension housing where the seal sits as I have found that some have been butchered where people have previously removed an old seal and subsequently the new one doesnt sit square when fitted. We had to get Em`s one machined slightly. As stated dont forget the copper washers and check to make sure the gasket is of good quality with a wipe of sealant and also the small plate below needs sealing properly too. While you have it out also make sure that the cover is of the correct length as I have come across Stag or earlier TR ones fitted which are 2 3/8" instead of the required 2"

Stuart.

[Guest ntc]

Thanks Stuart spot on when two know what they are doing quick job since then I have always thought that it could be a reason for so many release bearing failures

Edited February 27, 2016 by ntc

[graeme]

While you have it out also make sure that the cover is of the correct length as I have come across Stag or earlier TR ones fitted which are 2 3/8" instead of the required 2"

Stuart.

 

Interestingly, I have just stripped two gearboxes, one a Stag box with a short 2" nose and the second, a TR6 box with the long nose machined to a taper!!

 

Of course they all have the same part # cast in.

 

Cheers

Graeme

[peejay4A]

I seem to recall that the fixing bolts for the nose piece and bottom cover plate are "special".

[stuart]

 

Interestingly, I have just stripped two gearboxes, one a Stag box with a short 2" nose and the second, a TR6 box with the long nose machined to a taper!!

 

Of course they all have the same part # cast in.

 

Cheers

Graeme

The two different size pieces do indeed have the same part numbers as they followed the usual factory procedure of updating the part but not changing the number.

Stuart.

[Richiep]

Thanks everyone!

 

That's very helpful info!.. Both with the shopping list, and with what to look out for!

Any tips on how best to get the old seal out, and the new one in, without doing any butchering!?

 

I'm hoping the old one hasn't been butchered as the car has been in the family since 1979 (my Dad's car for over 30 years) and I don't remember him having the gearbox worked on... But will see once I get the gearbox out!

 

Thanks again,

 

Richard