jogger321 Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 My Tr6 has been stored off the rd in my garage for 25 years but hopefully will be back on the road later this year.. As part of process to get the car running again I have removed the fuel tank thoroughly cleaned it and coated it with POR 15 All rubber fuel hose replaced Exchange Metering unit from Neil Ferguson Exchange Injectors also from Neil New Fuel Filter (Bosch pump) ... The one thing concerning me is the steel fuel pipes that run under the car to the engine bay ..Any ideas on how I could give these a clean prior to trying to start the car as I'm concerned that any crud will end up in the metering unit/injectors Thanks Adrian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 A realistic concern. Take the pipes off, bin them, and replace with new . . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted January 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 Sorry ought to have added... Exchange PRV from Neil too Can anybody take me through how to replace the steel fuel lines? I take it they run underneath the car ..How are they fastened ..to the chassis??? Sounds like a potential tricky job undoing rusted up brackets and nuts??? Many thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 Hi Adrian Pretty straightforward - especially if you can get it on a ramp. Where are you ? I have a ramp and I'm in Maidenhead. Best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 They are held on with riveted brackets, there is a joiner part way along by the side of the gearbox.It is possible to remove them with the car up on a lift or whatever but easier with the exhaust out of the way to refit nicely. Definitely replace as they will be in a poor state. The fixing brackets are available. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 These riveted brackets, (the chassis was new in about 2010 it does already have all the strengthening done!) are there holes already in the chassis? I need to tidy up the previous so called TR and Stag 'expert' bodges! The fuel and brake lines are the next task to sort. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 These riveted brackets, (the chassis was new in about 2010 it does already have all the strengthening done!) are there holes already in the chassis? I need to tidy up the previous so called TR and Stag 'expert' bodges! The fuel and brake lines are the next task to sort. Possibly not, they are for 1/8" rivets so may not have been pre-drilled.. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted January 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Thanks for these replies everyone , extremely useful. I'm going to take a look underneath the car as soon as I feel I can open the garage door without it blowing off! Thanks Stuart.. Guess when they built the cars they never imagined these would be replaced.. I'm reasonably competent on this stuff but never messed around with rivets and I guess when I take a look underneath things will become a bit more obvious to me. Are the brackets riveted onto the chassis. How do you remove the rivets? (angle grind the head???) Will the other end drop into the chassis and rattle around. Reuse old holes?? I guess I need to invest in a rivet gun. The more I think of it really I need to replace everything pipe wise before startup up so also the leads from metering unit to injectors too and I've seen these on Ebay in a roll with some block of wood to fit them onto each end Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 They are 1/8" rivets and can be drilled out easily if the exhaust is out the way. I very much doubt you would hear the remnants rattling inside the chassis! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 A little waxy rustproofing in the chassis and whatever tiny bits are in there will be well-stuck in place. Two birds with one stone. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Thanks Stuart I'll get under the car and take a closer look. Jogger321... the rivets will only be blind ie 'pop' rivets. A pair of pop pliers and a some rivets...all available on eBay. One possible useful investment could be a small 90 deg drill. To remove the rivets just carefully drill the head off and using a punch tap them into the box section. With the rest of the mechanical cancaphony of a typical TR I wouldn't worry about a few rivet tails! You could also take the opportunity to spray some protective waxoil into the box sections. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted January 27, 2016 Report Share Posted January 27, 2016 Oops beaten to it!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cj79 Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) Hi Adrian The most difficult part I found was bending the fuel line from the PRV down through the hole in the body and lining up with the vertical pipe on the chassis member that's the end of the long pipe that as the guys have said is riveted along the length of the car. you have to get it pretty exact to stop it getting close to the near side half shaft. The kit that's available gives you a short length from the PRV then a connector to an extension that bends down to link up with the long body length pipe. I used a pipe bender on the new copper fuel line and tried to match the original curves as best I could, it still took a little bit of effort to get them to slot through and meet though. Just a heads up! I've included a link to a couple of photos of where the three riveted plates are for the long pipes and the vertical pipe at the back screwed in holder plate sits along with a before shot of the boot with the bend, I guess you have the originals though to copy anyway, (these are before and after shots from a couple of years ago, 3 years worth of work, off the road for 16 years before that, good luck I'm quite envious it was a lot of fun https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fyv54k4fpak6nvx/AABfs3fAKTZ7W5NLEz3sli5Ya?dl=0. Chris Edited January 28, 2016 by cj79 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Thanks for this Chris ..that is really helpful I am possibly being naive her but I was looking on the Moss site and I see they sell steel pipe replacements and assumed they came pre bent to the correct angles..Maybe in reality they just come rolled up and you have to shape them yourself? Anyway I'm going to have a look at my car tomorrow hopefully and put together a plan on how to move forward on this Cheers Adrian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ptjs1 Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Adrian, Good luck with your efforts. I'll be interested to hear of your results. After restoring the body, my shell has been in storage for 25 years, but I hope to be able to start work on the rest of the resto within the next 3 months. No way, will mine be back on the road this year, though! Cheers Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) This pic shows the clips and the routing. It is for a carburetted car, but I think the routing is the same. A few more pics at http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-50/TR6-50.html Ed Edited January 28, 2016 by ed_h Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 This pic shows the clips and the routing. It is for a carburetted car, but I think the routing is the same. A few more pics at http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-50/TR6-50.html Ed It is but there is an extra line of 3/16" for the fuel return to fit along side. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) ..... Edited January 31, 2016 by jogger321 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 You will find the return pipe now has no joints for good reason Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 A quick update. I have the car on axle stands and managed to remove the rear silencer box and one of the link pipes but sadly the other has dissolved in order to get myself access to the old steel pipes on the chassis. Interestingly the fuel and brake pipes are held on with brackets that appear screwed on as opposed riveted I'm pleased I decided to do the job as I noticed there possibly a couple of short lengths of rubber pipe (30 year old +) on the low pressure return which I did not know about Yesterday I bought this. Its a kit made for the TR6. I wonder if anyone has used one of these before. As you can see it comes with all the unions and supposedly the pipes the correct length which will suit my limited expertise in pipe cutting and flaring etc. As the pipes will need bending just wondering what tool folk have used to successfully and neatly bend this sort of stuff? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 You can bend them by hand carefully. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jogger321 Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) Hi Adrian The most difficult part I found was bending the fuel line from the PRV down through the hole in the body and lining up with the vertical pipe on the chassis member that's the end of the long pipe that as the guys have said is riveted along the length of the car. you have to get it pretty exact to stop it getting close to the near side half shaft. The kit that's available gives you a short length from the PRV then a connector to an extension that bends down to link up with the long body length pipe. I used a pipe bender on the new copper fuel line and tried to match the original curves as best I could, it still took a little bit of effort to get them to slot through and meet though. Just a heads up! I've included a link to a couple of photos of where the three riveted plates are for the long pipes and the vertical pipe at the back screwed in holder plate sits along with a before shot of the boot with the bend, I guess you have the originals though to copy anyway, (these are before and after shots from a couple of years ago, 3 years worth of work, off the road for 16 years before that, good luck I'm quite envious it was a lot of fun https://www.dropbox.com/sh/fyv54k4fpak6nvx/AABfs3fAKTZ7W5NLEz3sli5Ya?dl=0. Chris Hi Chris just looking at your pictures and looks like you fitted the same copper kit I have just purchased. Did you use any special pipe bender? I see a number are for sale ..just wondering which sort you used as concerned about scoring the pipes or damaging them Edited February 1, 2016 by jogger321 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Hi Adrian, copper or Cunifer pipes are easy to bend so you only need a simple/cheap bender. Ensure that the groove that the pipe sits in is a good fit. If the groove is too wide then the pipe will swell sideways and then kink. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 There are no tight bends in the run so as Neil says you can bend them by hand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 As said before you don't need to use any kind of former, just bend them slowing over your thumb, one thing I will say though if you are using the original metal brackets put a barrier between these and the copper. I used electrical tape on the inside of my bracket. Galvanic action happens between metals ,copper being one of the highest to resist, but metal one of the lowest will corrode first. Mark. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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