JeffR Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 After many moons of putting this job off, I've now got round to restoring an original, steel TR3 hardtop I acquired from one of our illustrious members a while back - in the hope that I may get a chance to use it before the warmer weather arrives. It's in generally good condition with what I believe to be its original paint and headlining. There's very little rust save for a small patch of perforation the size of a 10p piece close to the gutter adjacent to the cant rail above the driver's right ear. I plan to cut this out and butt weld in a patch. Earlier this week I removed the old headlining and what I could of the adhesive and took the hardtop to be blasted gently inside and out. It worked a treat, albeit some of the adhesive still wouldn't shift - bugger!. Since then I've sprayed the outside surface with one coat of etch primer before continuing to remove what remains of the adhesive and paint on the inside with an electric wire brush and P60 paper. I've found that the inside of the roof at its highest point along the centre is peppered with rust spots, presumably due to condensation over the years. I've rubbed these down and treated the whole of the inside surface with Jenolite. I was about to spray the inside with etch primer but before doing so I thought it would be useful to ask others what would be the best coating to apply. Originally, the inside roof was only painted with red oxide. In order to avoid rust due to condensation in the future should I apply a rust preventative such as POR15? I await your comments with paint brush in hand! Cheers, JeffR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 I would treat with Jenolite or Milk Stone remover (concentrated Phosphoric Acid available from all good farm stores, suitably diluted) and then prime with Bondaprimer, my personal choice for bare clean metal. Cheers Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffR Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Thanks Iain, Sounds like a great idea - I've heard good things about Bondaprimer. Cheers, Jeff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 I'm a fan of POR15 and have used the stuff in many applications. It's not the easiest to work with, but dayum, does that stuff protect. Completely overkill for your hardtop -- it would MORE than do the job, but almost certainly isn't needed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Hi Jeff, Bondarust primer works well and sticks well. Easy to apply and does the job. That would be my choice. Etch primer would probably work but is better used on metal such as Ali. Have you considered a 2K primer and top coat. Very waterproof and easy to apply with a brush for the inside. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffR Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 Hi Roger, I think Bondaprimer is the answer - I have an old can of Finnegans No1 in the garage which I think is pretty much the same thing. If I have enough left I'll use that - otherwise I'll buy a can of Bondaprimer. Your comment about using 2K is interesting - certainly worth thinking about. Cheers, JEFF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 21, 2016 Report Share Posted January 21, 2016 I have hardtop problems as well and if only there were only a few rust spots. My hard top came out of hibernation last autumn and did not fit along the windscreen corners. It used to fit well and very little leakage. It has opened up and I can not think of any way to clamp it up so that the corners are forced inwards and the centre is not forced upwards. Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks Richard & H. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 A word of warning when using Bondaprimer. If you are applying a top coat over it then the Bondaprimer surface needs to be slightly abraded to provide a key. If you don't do this be prepared for the top coat to flake off. Don't ask me how I know this. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Hi Jeff, I was fortunate that the previous custodian of my hardtop had looked after it well. After the original cotton/paint-like headline starter to peel, I took it off to reveal no more than surface rust due to vapour over the years. Is your line of rust spots possibly from under the bar that would have (done little if anything to) dampen the roof ? - see below I can strongly recommend NOT using owt like Fertan - makes a right mess. I eventually got it to this, with the rust 'neutralised' As we have the hardtop on an awful lot, we went for the route of trying to properly dampen the resonance (of the exhaust pipes of Mordor) This stuff from woolies was overkill and adds weight at the highest point of the car. I then covered it in felt, again from woolies I should have stopped there as I then made a right pigs ear of the vinyl ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 (edited) Hi Iain, (too many Ian/Iain's) on the Bondaprimer directions it does state to over paint within the first 24 Hrs or after 7 days - could this be the reason the top coat came off. Rubbing down to give a key is a good idea anyway. Roger Edited January 22, 2016 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Roger you are absolutely correct. Over coating with "Cellulose based paints"is to be done within 24hrs or after 7days. Synthetics have no such caveat. As regards Ians comments re keying up , that essential for any paint. (Stuart is also a big fan of Bondaprimer) Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 A word of warning when using Bondaprimer. If you are applying a top coat over it then the Bondaprimer surface needs to be slightly abraded to provide a key. If you don't do this be prepared for the top coat to flake off. Don't ask me how I know this. Rgds Ian All paints require this unless you are doing wet on wet process. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JeffR Posted January 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Hi Jeff, I was fortunate that the previous custodian of my hardtop had looked after it well. After the original cotton/paint-like headline starter to peel, I took it off to reveal no more than surface rust due to vapour over the years. Is your line of rust spots possibly from under the bar that would have (done little if anything to) dampen the roof ? - see below I can strongly recommend NOT using owt like Fertan - makes a right mess. I eventually got it to this, with the rust 'neutralised' As we have the hardtop on an awful lot, we went for the route of trying to properly dampen the resonance (of the exhaust pipes of Mordor) This stuff from woolies was overkill and adds weight at the highest point of the car. I then covered it in felt, again from woolies I should have stopped there as I then made a right pigs ear of the vinyl ! Hi McMuttley, Thanks for your comments. You're clearly much further ahead of me in your experience with hardtops! The rust spots I have are not under the bar as you mention but more in the centre of the roof and run from front to back - so probably due to condensation. After treating with Jenolite my plan is to paint the underside of the roof with Bondaprimer before gluing in a new headlining, obtained from Woolies - the same as in your photo.. I hadn't considered then covering this with vinyl, is that what was done as standard? Cheers, JEFF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
McMuttley Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 Hi Jeff, I don't think they were lined as such, but haven't seen enough originals to be more specific. The apparently original ?? covering on mine seemed to be a very thin more cotton-like painted layer - certainly not vinyl. The problem with vinyl would be the curves on the rear part, trying to stretch it as it arches back down either side of the rear window - much easier with the foam / flock than less flexible vinyl and the need for heat etc. I used the fact that there is the crossbar, to apply two halves of vinyl and cut it across the middle to make it more manageable - but this still didn't help with the fiddly bits.... definitely a job for a trimmer unless you keep it basic ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted January 22, 2016 Report Share Posted January 22, 2016 The original material was I think.... Union wool cloth https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwibqsTtq73KAhWBWRQKHYMsDy4QjB0IBg&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vintagecarparts.co.uk%2Fproducts%2F244-union-cloth-headliner&psig=AFQjCNEXFyjHe_6bMAZUFLTZewn8Wtei8A&ust=1453549452100603 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red 6 Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 If I may add that the foil type material is for vibration damping and not sound deadening. Only small strips or squares need to be applied and these would be placed roughly in the centre of the panel or area to be damped. Thus you can do the job with very little material and there will be no appreciable weight penalty. The material is about 2mm thick and there is a much better quality product available which is not bitumen based.I cannot remember the name but I have just used it on my Porsche restoration with brilliant results. Chose the damping material with care because as the roof gets blindingly hot in summer the adhesive will melt and sag/fall off!!! (especially if using the bitumen backed type) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Gary Stretton (former Classics' monthly editor) swears by Dynamat, never used it myself as I had a load of the felt based stuff "come my way" as it were, years ago and used that. i do agree with the applying something to the roof as my car was really loud without it! i think I have a new acrylic rear screen for one of these hard tops if anyone interested, pm me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red 6 Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 PM sent Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.