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Water +antifreeze or Evans waterless coolant?


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Mick, 4Life isn’t waterless, water is part of the formulation, I am speaking from experience, not hearsay and did my product research. I didn’t use Evans for all of the reasons stated in this post, I wouldn’t use a waterless coolant either. Each to their own, but beware comments made on products that misrepresent the situation.

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I filled up with Evans early this year at the same time fitted an alloy rad alloy water pump from racetorations I have electric fan working off ECU and early on the temperature stood in traffic goes up to just under the red and stays there even with fan running until I get on the move so fitted a second electric fan behind the rad on a manual switch but still has high temp, so will be going back to bluecol this winter should think flushing out with the prep fluid may get rid of it and then a good flushing, has anyone else gone back.

Keith

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10 hours ago, Yarm 783 said:

It also allows the engine to run a touch cooler, whatever any of the keyboard scientists say.  

If the coolant picks up less heat from the engine then isn't the temp gauge bound to read a bit cooler?

Pete

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9 minutes ago, Keith Warren said:

should think flushing out with the prep fluid may get rid of it

No need to flush it Keith. It's only glycol so if you refill with a 60/40 water/bluecol mix you might end up with 59/41 because of the remnants.  No biggie. 

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9 minutes ago, stillp said:

If the coolant picks up less heat from the engine then isn't the temp gauge bound to read a bit cooler?

 

4life looks to be 50/50 water-and-glycol plus a few 'magic' additives.  It will only be a little worse than a standard 60/40 coolant mix for shifting heat, because of the slightly lower specific heat and higher dynamic viscosity.  If 'Yarm' did a system flush before filling with it,  it might account for the lower temperatures. 

Edited by RobH
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Hi Rob, yes I flushed the whole system, the rad was full of crud as was the block, In fact I had to poke a screwdriver into the drain plug near the starter, scraped some pretty solid stuff out and then flushed for quite a while...oh the joys of old school cooling. It’s difficult to say what ratio the cooling improvements can be apportioned to that or the 4Life.  What I can say is that I drained the system a year later, zero crud. I then recored the rad for good measure. The car runs a little cooler, but significantly doesn’t overheat when stationary or on hot days, both of which it did on occasion prior to the changes.

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14 hours ago, Keith Warren said:

Thanks Rob will make it my winter job, thought it was the bees knees I fitted a updated heater from Revington’s and they recommended it put it down to experience.

You will struggle to get rid of it out of the system as its very oily/slippery and also disposing of it isnt easy either.

Stuart.

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Around 10 years ago, there was a Le Mans Classic competitor who had to retire due to a blown head gasket. When I asked him, he was convinced the gasket failure was due to localised hot spots in the engine when running under racing conditions with waterless coolant. He went back to traditional glycol/water he never had another head gasket failure.

It can never be proved that the waterless coolant caused the gasket failure, so the individual concerned would probably prefer not to be named. I've never been tempted to try waterless and suspect there's as much (or as little) proper science involved as the magic fuel tank catalyst pellets.

Nigel

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