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In-line Fuel Filter and Cleaning Fuel Tank


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Other than the gentle eddy created by the bowl in the fuel pump and the carb float chambers, Old Sooty (nee Smokey) appears to have no filter in the fuel system.

 

In-line filters appear to be cheap and easy to install, with disposable metal ones or clear plastic with replaceable filters - both for 6mm line. In anticipation of re-installing shiny refurbished carbs in a month or two, are these recommended / necessary. I assume they should be between tank and pump, or can I get away with one in the (to be renewed) rubber tube just before the carbs ?

 

I also took the opportunity to empty the fuel tank to inspect its condition. Its seems to be OK, but I have ordered a cheap USB inspection camera to double check.

 

Whilst the fuel is out, it is obviously at risk of some rust (the cap having been left open to vent and dehumidifier humming away). Without filling it for the sake of it, is there a recommended way to ensure the tank is clean before re-connecting the carbs and refilling etc. I have seen various references to slush clean and sealing products. Is this the only option? I was sort of hoping not to take it out? My drain plug works, so wondered if there was a system that would allow me to spray inside in site and drain through the plug?????

 

Thanks as always

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Hi McMuttley ~

 

I removed the tank from my 3A and treated it with the Frost's tank cleaning and sealing process.

It's essential that the tank is removed so that it can be thoroughly cleaned.

 

​The same goes for the tank sealant. The tank needs to be thoroughly rotated so that

every nook and cranny is coated with sealant. Trying to cover every corner by spraying

from the top or underneath is impossible.

 

I did exactly the same with my 'E'-type Jaguar petrol tank.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Tom. :)

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Thanks Tom

 

Is tank removal and re-insertion within the capabilities of a 'idiot' like me ? A few bolts / straps / fuel line / filler / breather ? Anything else ?

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Hi Mc ~

 

If an idiot like me can remove a TR petrol tank then anybody can!

When I refitted the tank after externally painting it I replaced the felt insulating material with lengths of old

plastic covered canvas fire hose. This stuff lasts forever! If you've got a fire station near you ask the guys

for a length of withdrawn fire hose.

 

Tom. ;)

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Tom,

 

If the tank insides are in good condition (checked using your new camera, or a mirror on a stick), then if you are worried about rusting over a few weeks, even though the garage is dehumidified, why not just mist spray the inside of the tank with a light oil, or even WD40? Don't think it will cause any problems when mixed with 10 gallons of fuel.

 

I suggest an inline filter just before the front carb, there is a filter of sorts in the pump bowl.

 

mike

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I suggest an inline filter just before the front carb, there is a filter of sorts in the pump bowl.

Here's the filter on my car.

i-nsQZCMb-X3.jpg

Edited by Don H.
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In line filter needs to be between pump and carburettors - if on the suction side of the pump, the element can collapse and block the line, as Roger will confirm!

Sloshing: see my article in TR Action 144 (Jan/Feb 1998), or Section K3 of the Technicalities CD. it's now a 3-part process, I'm informed (but what I did 17 years ago seems to have stood the test of time - so far!).

Ian Cornish

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OK, well mine is currently between tank & pump. No probs in 3500 miles, but will certainly bear that in mind.

 

I was going to add an amusing emoticon there, but clicking on it does nothing ??

 

Bob.

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While you have everything apart, it is a good idea to fit an in line tap in the fuel line between the tank and the filter.

 

Rgds Ian

Ian, is this a 'hidden' tap for security measures, or just to stop the open flow of fuel if I need to tinker with my mongrel carbs ?

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Ian, is this a 'hidden' tap for security measures, or just to stop the open flow of fuel if I need to tinker with my mongrel carbs ?

 

An inline valve, hidden or otherwise, would be useful from time to time. My current solution is to clamp the rubber hose just before the inlet to the fuel pump with one of the smaller versions of these plastic fuel line/hose clamps. Available from many sources, they work perfectly -- I have a pair in the boot kit.

 

81KFRu0Q3ZL._SL1500_.jpg

Edited by Don H.
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An inline valve, hidden or otherwise, would be useful from time to time. My current solution is to clamp the rubber hose just before the inlet to the fuel pump with one of the smaller versions of these plastic fuel line/hose clamps. Available from many sources, they work perfectly -- I have a pair in the boot kit.

 

81KFRu0Q3ZL._SL1500_.jpg

+1

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traditional way of 'descaling' the tank's inside is to put in a handful of gravel, or loose nuts'n'bolts, and give it a jolly good shaking, followed by washing out all that is loosened.

Traditionally, the tank is wrapped in a blankets and put inside a concrete mixer,but a TR tank may be too big for your mixer, if you have one!

 

John

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I suggest you position the fuel filter in as cool a place as possible.

 

I fitted an in line filter on my MGB years ago. Like the TR, the fuel line is routed over the exhaust manifold and is the recommended location for the filter. I'd never experienced a problem before, but the heat from the manifold caused fuel to evaporate from the filter. I re-routed the fuel line away from the manifold area and this solved the problem.

 

Martyn

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Ian, is this a 'hidden' tap for security measures, or just to stop the open flow of fuel if I need to tinker with my mongrel carbs ?

It's just to stop the flow of fuel if you want to tinker with the fuel delivery system.

 

Rgds Ian

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  • 4 weeks later...

In terms of in-line fuel filter, the internet says don't use the glass ones because if they crack they spew fuel over your engine. This seems to leave the plastic disposal ones, or the rather more expensive stye types (which don't seem to sit 1/4 pipe or low pressure ?)

 

What are people using ?

 

Cheap......

 

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=2&pgCode=017&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Fuel+Systems&agCode=0130&agName=Fuel+Filters+In+Line+Type

 

or do you mean something like this ? If so how is it mounted ?

 

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=2&pgCode=017&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Fuel+Systems&agCode=0131&agName=Fuel+Filters%2FRegulators&pCode=015.174

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I have fitted lots of the glass, cleanable, filters and never had a problem. It is far easier to see any debris and if they block on a run they can be cleaned in a couple of minutes without having to remember to carry a spare.

The ones I have bought are very tough so can't see any more chance of them cracking than with cheap plastic ones splitting or distorting with heat.

If, as previously suggested, you mount between the tank and the pump and also high enough to be as close to the top of the level of the tank as possible, if it did actually crack then the pump would only suck air and not fuel from the tank and no fuel would flow uphill from the tank

IMHO

Steve

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I have a filter regulator fitted similar to that but with a steel bowl (Safer) feeding my Dellortos and I made an angle bracket to mount it on the wheel arch on 4a as the top of them has a plate to the side and two mounting holes.

Stuart.

 

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When I mount glass filters I use ,what is called now. "spring snap" storage clips.

Can't remember what they used to be called but easy off/on and secure.

Steve

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