AndrewP Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Hi all and happy Xmas and new year. Ive finally had a bit of time to crack on with my 6 restoration, and now getting into new A posts, floors and sills. So I can line everything up, I`ll be hanging the front and rear wings and doors to get the panel gaps OK, but as a second option does anyone have the bodyshell dimensions? The brown book has chassis dims, but nothing for the body that I can see Dimensions such as door aperture sizes, diagonals (top of A-post to top of opposite side B post) etc. would be really helpful so i can double check. Many Thanks Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
had17462 Posted December 28, 2015 Report Share Posted December 28, 2015 Andrew I don't think that works that way I think you make the gap from the apost to the b post by fitting the doors and work from that,but I'm sure Stuart will confirm either way. Regards Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewP Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Hi Nick, Thanks for the reply. I`ll be doing as you mentioned (getting everything lined up with respect to the doors and the panel fit), but wanted a few dimensions to double check. After the accident mine had, Im having to use doors from a donor vehicle, and so in the event of the doors being completely different (perhaps they've been modified in the past for e.g) Id rather lead load the doors to get the correct gap and have everything else as it should be than get the doors to fit then find other things i.e hard of soft tops, perhaps windscreen frames etc. wont fit. No problems if these dimensions don't exist or are different for every car, just thought Id ask and see if there were some ball-park numbers. Cheers Andrew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Andrew You really still need to go with the doors fitting the holes, leading only really corrects discrepancies that arent too huge, you still need the door shell to fit with the hinges in the right place and the locks so they engage properly.Chassis level up on stands and floors bolted in the right place then bring the two halves together and put the doors in the holes and then adjust to suit. Unless you plan on using a hard top then a soft top frame up and locked over to the screen frame will give you a good measurement. glasses in the doors do help. Rear panel should just reveal about 1/2" to 3/4" of the chassis rails below it and bumper irons should line with holes in the chassis and holes in front and back panel. Look at the chassis below the front and back panel an make sure what you can see is also level. (Long builders spirit level helps as well as small ones, I also have laser sight levels which help too.) Spend a lot of time walking round and sighting along the sides to ensure they look the same front to back and that the swage lines follow (you have to bear in mind the swage on the door is different to the wing so chose one line and stick to it for both sides) Take lots of measurements all round and then triangulate them so you know everything is square. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AndrewP Posted December 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Thanks very much Stuart, I dug out some photos you sent me a few photos from another TR6 restoration you did a while ago and its given me the confidence to crack on with it over the xmas break, so I'm sure I said at the time, but thanks so much for sharing and helping its really appreciated even from the other side of the world (hottest place in the world for the last few days apparently!). I`ll use the soft top that I have stashed in my loft as a guide, and the side windows are also a good idea as they never really fitted that well on the old tub, so I can hopefully make an improvement there. I must say though that the best tip you've given to others in a few posts is the use of the Cleco clamps and fastners. At the moment I have the outer cill cleco'd into position before I plug weld it all up. Without them Id need a few half dozen clamps and it allows a little bit of jiggle room to get everything near-as-damn-it spot on before fixing it into position. Im hoping by the end of my (brief) xmas break I`ll have the floor pan(s) replaced, inner and outer cills replaced, and the donor front end grafted onto my original rear end ready to go off to blast before getting it ready for paint. Exciting times as come March 2016, its 3 years since the accident, and It would be really nice to see some real progress in getting it back on the road. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 Good luck with it Andrew. Please keep us updated with photos! Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
alan atkinson Posted December 31, 2015 Report Share Posted December 31, 2015 Windows in - and windshield in too - is the absolute best advice I'd say. My 250 has gorgeous door gaps (and the builder bitched about how much work it was). The windows and screen weren't in though when he did it and lining them all up has been an absolute grade one pita. Especially getting the surrey to fit when the windshield frame was 1/2" off square at the top... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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