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Hi all

Is there any information anywhere regarding gas flowing the cylinder head on a high port head 1960 tr3a

Thanks

Tony

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David Vizard has been the guru of cylinder head modification for years decades, I well remember buying his books in the 70's then modifying a Mini head.

 

You could try this book of his:

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Port-Flow-Cylinder-Heads-Design/dp/1934709646

 

It's generic, not specific to TR's unfortunately, but covers the basic principles well. Be warned though, it's easier to make a head flow worse than better when modifying, and what may suit a racer certainly won't improve a car that spends its life on the road.

 

 

Nigel

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To add to the above, for a road engine, I would do only the following to improve flow through the ports:

 

- Match the inlet manifold precisely to carb venturis and inlet ports.

 

- Triple angle cut for inlet valves/seats.

 

- Match the combustion chamber volumes.

 

- Possibly a light skim to raise compression ratio slightly but don't go too far because of the low octane rating of modern petrol (even the super unleaded stuff).

 

 

Nigel

Edited by Nigel Triumph
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http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/David%20Vizard-Tuning%20Standard%20Triumph.pdf

 

This is an online version of Vizard's "Tuning Standard Triumphs over 1300cc" It deals specifically with the TR4, not the TR3, but may be of generic use.

I would also recommend his "Theory & Practice of Cyliner Head Modification" if it weren't on sale for silly prices on Amazon (£129!!!)

 

John

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Kas Kastner is THE man, and I believe his manual may be available through the Register's on-line shop.

Kas was getting over 150 true BHP in 1961 - and no one at Triumph in the UK believed him until he came over, built an engine and put it on Triumph's own dynamometer!

Ian Cornish

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Is there any information anywhere regarding gas flowing the cylinder head on a high port head 1960 tr3a

 

 

There are two things to deal with:

The core shift of the manifold runners and the undercut in the chamber for the inlet.

 

They both need some attention to make the best out of it.

 

The valve area is really coarse and the above mentioned 3-angle valve job

and also modification of the valve itself is worth to spend some work on.

 

But where to get that job? With a nomal machining company there is a real

chance that things will not get better or will not be that good as it could be.

 

I bought some sets from NEWAY, they are expensive but good. A decision must be made

if such an expense for one head makes sense and to be honest, a head can be spoiled

with those tools easily but they are essential to do good work.

 

Inlet size is more than enough, outlet valve can be increased a bit.

Blending the manifold runners into the valve area and avoid all sharp

bends and edges is a good start that will be finished with the valve job.

I still drive the TR6 head without lead free rings because there is limited

space in that area and the rings might support cracks.

 

Some time ago I prepared a high port head with rings and it was a pain

because there was so much material protruding into the canal that I

was pondering between nice flow and rings not to pop out.

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