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TR6 oil pump-where to buy?


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Hi Guys,

 

I've spent a lot of time and money rebuilding my CP engine, ie new pistons/cam/shells/bolts/Head rebuild etc,.

 

Having checked out the oil pump (alloy type) to the dimensions in the TR6 repair manual, I have concluded that ther is wear and it would be silly not to replace it, as after all its the heart of the engine.

 

There seems to be various suppliers of pumps, Moss, Rimmers, TR shop, E-bay, but are they all from the same manufacture. Its hard to believe that there many different manufacures out there as the market can't be that big. TR Shop are offering a pump at a discounted price of £41.

 

I would be pleased to hear any feedback from any forum member who has had good or bad experiences before making a purchase.

 

Regards

Rich

 

 

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Hi Guys,

 

Rang around a few suppliers of Pumps and seems that the source manufacturer is in Taiwan.

Most of the suppliers, TRbitz / Rimmers to name 2, claim to have sold lots with no comeback.

So, the TR Shop are selling a Pump, achnowledged also as Taiwan manufactured, for £41, and also claim to have sold loads with no comeback.

So, why pay more I ask?

Regards

Rich

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All the county pumps are all out of tolerance. You'll be wise to check. When my engine was rebuilt my engiine builder, couldn't find one within tolerance in fact 2 old pumps were better than new ones? Eventually he made a good one out of a few.

Be careful.

Steve

Edited by whatmore179
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Ok Guys, hint taken. I have puchased a 'toleranced' Oil Pump from Chris Witor. The most exspensive around but seemed silly to risk my new built engine for the sake of £40.

Thanks for all your comments

Rich

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Hi Guys.

 

Now I have a Chris Witor pump as recommended, is it best to pack it as suggested by some, with petrolium jelly (vasaline) before fitting to aid priming?

Thanks

Rich

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  • 4 years later...

Hello, I am also looking for a good oil pump refurbishment, not in a hurry though. It seems that Chris Witor is the best. I have heard of some issues with big suppliers' pumps, especially some cases of broken bolts. Any feedback on this issue?

In case of aluminium pump, like mine (picture from 2018), I was strongly advised to keep my old pump body and change only rotor-stator assembly.

Thanks for your comments ! 

William 

Screenshot_20200609-192002.png

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Another vote for Chris Witor.

After researching what was available, and not wanting to compromise on this most vital component, I fitted one of his pumps when building a tuned 2.5 litre engine for my GT6 last year.

Nigel

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William,

I have the same from Wittor, It is recommended on here.

Not sure if rhe other suppliers supply a different one though.

It was “acceptable” for me but certainly not good:

1) The filter is not as good as the original, which is better quality. Poor replication.

2) The thread of the filterpipe is different, so I could not install my original filter.

3) The bolts have a 10 mm head, original 1/4” Standard.
 

4) The drive shaft was a couple of mm shorter, so less “bearing” In the drive gear

5) The drive shaft was slightly thinner diameter, which implies more oil loss from the gallery.

5) The tolerances were all within spec.
 

If you can fit the new rotor in your existing casing that is worth considering. Check dimensions / tolerances off course.

So it is ok-ish but not good (my opinion off course)

Waldi

 

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Just fitted a blueprinted pump from Chris Wittor. Straight forward job and good increase in oil pressure.

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Thanks for your comments ! 

6 minutes ago, ntc said:

That is also not the correct filter as pointed out above, for an early car.

Yes, the correct oil pump should be the alloy version as far as I understand, with a different shape and with the square filter, right? And I have also heard about a cast iron pump no longer produced... Mine on the picture is the aluminium version, right? 

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On 12/4/2015 at 8:19 AM, Nick Jones said:

Yes, I would, though a generous smearing rather than actual packing, Matters less if you are planning to use the electric drill trick to prime the whole system before first start.

 

Nick

An alternative is to remove the oil PRV and squirt a quarter of a pint of oil in, replace PRV and crank over until oil pressure is obtained prior to first start.

if you use the electric drill technique make sure the drill has a torque controller!

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2 hours ago, TR6_PI_1969 said:

Thanks for your comments ! 

Yes, the correct oil pump should be the alloy version as far as I understand, with a different shape and with the square filter, right? And I have also heard about a cast iron pump no longer produced... Mine on the picture is the aluminium version, right? 

My old 1972 PI saloon had a cast iron pump, probably the factory original. It always had very good hot pressure particularly at idle.

I suspect the alloy body pumps grow in length and width with the oil temperature and so increase the end clearance of the rotors. The steel rotors will expand less than the alloy casing.

Certainly it was producing better figures than even the Witor blueprinted alloy bodied ones were doing, but this was back in the 1990s

Neil

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2 hours ago, TR6_PI_1969 said:

Thanks for your comments ! 

Yes, the correct oil pump should be the alloy version as far as I understand, with a different shape and with the square filter, right? And I have also heard about a cast iron pump no longer produced... Mine on the picture is the aluminium version, right? 

The filter part you are correct but the pump was cast iron 

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3 hours ago, Waldi said:

William,

I have the same from Wittor, It is recommended on here.

Not sure if rhe other suppliers supply a different one though.

It was “acceptable” for me but certainly not good:

1) The filter is not as good as the original, which is better quality. Poor replication.

2) The thread of the filterpipe is different, so I could not install my original filter.

3) The bolts have a 10 mm head, original 1/4” Standard.
 

4) The drive shaft was a couple of mm shorter, so less “bearing” In the drive gear

5) The drive shaft was slightly thinner diameter, which implies more oil loss from the gallery.

5) The tolerances were all within spec.
 

If you can fit the new rotor in your existing casing that is worth considering. Check dimensions / tolerances off course.

So it is ok-ish but not good (my opinion off course)

Waldi

 

Thanks for these infos Waldi. Well, this replacement is not that simple, from what I understand. Good point for the tolerances, however. "Oil loss from the gallery": what is it exactly? How does it manifest? Thanks! 

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The oil pressure in the gallery is also lubricating the bushing and drive gear for the ignition/cam shaft. With a larger clearance in the bushing more oil is lost there. My new shaft measured around 0.1 mm thinner than the old one. Not overly concernable, but avoidable when proper tolerances were maintained when fabricating the new shaft.

The shaft being shorter is a bigger (potential) issue because there is less engagement.

Waldi

 

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13 hours ago, Waldi said:

The oil pressure in the gallery is also lubricating the bushing and drive gear for the ignition/cam shaft. With a larger clearance in the bushing more oil is lost there. My new shaft measured around 0.1 mm thinner than the old one. Not overly concernable, but avoidable when proper tolerances were maintained when fabricating the new shaft.

The shaft being shorter is a bigger (potential) issue because there is less engagement.

Waldi

 

Thanks for the infos :-)

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Hi All

Been reading this thread with increasing concern.

When i got rebuilt my engine errr cough cough years ago i well just bought a new oil pump from one of the big outfits and just bunged it in.

Didn't think much about the old one, well a new one is it bound to be better right, although it seems maybe not.

Well I'm going to check them both now, not having binned the old one.

So something else to do now, but it also brings to mind a question.

When did Triumph stop using the pump with square type oil pickup with the internal wire gauze filter

As mine is a very early 72 reg date it would have been built late 71 so curious as to what it would have had.

Cheers   Keith

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Keith,

The new pump I Bought from Wittor is marked with Cast letters powertune, the old pump only had a date and follow-number stamped: 26 10 77 MM
So it is probably a later pump. It had the round filter.

Waldi

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