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NDRAC04

Dashboard question

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Just finalising my conversion to RHD and I am about to make a new dashboard that a good mate of mine will veneer for me.

I've noticed that the 3 smaller gauges are mounted with their rims proud of the surface, but the speedo and tacho are recessed. Just wondering if this is normal, and if there is a particular reason for this? I would have thought they would look better if they were all the same - i.e. all proud.

 

Ray

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I likewise carried out the conversion of the dash this weekend, following the link cutting in 5 sections really worked well, the original screw holes were still useable with the exception of the speedo tachometer section which needed moving the 20 mm as advised. Only thing that was omitted from the advice was the angle set of the pedestal bracket for the column which attaches to the dash, I cut the mounting out and reset and welded.

Interesting to know if you had similar.

The fascia is the next procurement.

Best of luck Paul J

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I bought an original spare 4a fascia but realisd it differs from the 4, but both have recessed holes for the speedo and tacho but not the 4 smaller dials. Assumed it was to give more clearance from hands on the steering wheel - especially if early doomed glass?

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Paul - interesting about having to reset the angle of the column mount. I haven't had to do this, it all lined up perfectly for me. You have got the new bracket on the inside of the bulkhead in the right place I suppose? I found there is quite a change in angle (taken up by the rubber UJ's in the steering column). The angle as it comes through the bulkhead inside the car is a lbit shallower than in the engine bay.

I have had to enlarge a couple of the top holes where the screws that attach the metal dash to the dash top, but that was probably due to slight misalignment of the 5 pieces. Anyway, it's a good solution, and as it's hidden from view by the wooden dash, the finish on welded joints aren't too critical.

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Still awaiting delivery of the new bulkhead bracket and the new rack so I have continued with the pedal brackets etc, did you use your LHD pedals or replaced, the pedals are handed and need cranking for the RHD fitting, but I'm not sure why at the moment they seem to be in a reasonable position, perhaps the clutch is a little close to the tunnel cover, looking for a pic of a RHD pedal layout.

All good fun.

Paul

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I normally bend the pedals to suit my size 11 work boot so that you can use the dipswitch as a foot rest but keep a little clearance off the clutch pedal and get the throttle pedal on a good line with the brake for ease of heel and toe.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart

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Hi Paul, yes I heated both pedals up to red heat and bent them. The brake needed to be virtually straight, then I adjusted the clutch pedal bend to match the original gap - 2.25" from memory.

As Stuart says, I found there wasn't enough room to rest your foot off the clutch without bending.

 

Ray

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Thanks Stuart and Ray, that answers my question, I looked at another conversion this afternoon and they kept the peddles as was.

I think a tweak of the clutch peddle will greatly improve use of the dip switch.

Size 11 work boot, less of a tweak for my size 7.

Cheers all until the next problem.

Paul J

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While using my 4 in the dark evenings of the last few weeks i have been cursing the lack of room to get to the dip-switch - hadn't even thought of bending the pedals, thank you! :)

........ Andy

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