Percy TR6 Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Hi all, For some time I have had a bit of a problem with the gearbox on my TR6 - more specifically, with the clutch which can be sticky in action. Its only an issue when pulling away in first but I think the time has come for me to resolve it. The gearbox was removed (not by me) a couple of years ago to replace the starter ring gear and it hasn't been the same since, so having read through other posts, I am wondering if it may simply be an alignment issue. My first plan of action is to loosen the bell housing bolts slightly, engage the clutch a few times then retighten the bolts to see if I can pull things into alignment. Several posts mention special aligning dowel bolts but I can see no mention of these in the brown book or the Haynes manual. Some posts mention two bolts, others three. It may well be that these are missing. Can anyone confirm which of the 9 upper and 7 lower bolts these should be and how I would recognise them? Thanks Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 2 O'clock and 8 O'clock, and they are vital on the Tr 6. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Here is a good article as well as many others for info on the clutch and other items. See further down this article for the positioning of the dowels. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
simonjrwinter Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 You need the Buckeye Triumph site for a full explanation of the "sticky clutch" issue Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Hi Steve This may help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 2 O'clock and 8 O'clock, and they are vital on the Tr 6. John. Absolutely, they are 3/8"UNF (9/16" Spanner size) shouldered bolts (Its the shoulder that provides the correct alignment) Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Thanks all. I will start pulling the car apart and see what transpires. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Here is a good article as well as many others for info on the clutch and other items. See further down this article for the positioning of the dowels. John John - not sure if I am just being stupid but I can't see any link to an article in your post. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Percy Sorry forgot to add the link. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ReliableClutch/ReliableClutch.htm John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tom Fremont Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 As " Buckeye " myself ( native and resident of the Buckeye State: Ohio ) I take exception to some of the views and preferences in the article linked above: 1. The SACHS pressure plate does the job with both of my Webered '250s, both of which have Racetorations heads, one has the CP cam with 9.5:1 c/r and the other with the 1312@105 cam ( which has 33% more lift and 12 degrees more duration than the CP ) and 10.7:1 c/r. I don't know the HP of either, but reckon it's safe to say 140 and 160 respectively. Never had any slippage with the SACHS pressure plates . 2. The KOYO bearing works perfectly fine on both of mine. It is however part of a package called the Magic Clutch Kit which comprises the above pressure plate and the LUK driven plate with the KOYO bearing - this recipe has been vetted thoroughly and works when used as a complete kit. I wouldn't recommend using the bearing without the other two components as I can't vouch for it that way. Note the MCK is guaranteed - try to find another kit that is! 3. I have had zero issues with steel t/o/b sleeves ever since ensuring alignment of the engine/gearbox back in the 1900s. I don't have confidence the bronze will withstand the loading of the fork pins ( trunnions? ) over time, and I know the steel ones work so I'm not inclined to try the former. 4. The GUNST bearing, if I'm not mistaken ( someone will chime in to correct me in due course if I am ) is always engaged. That's why I'll never use one in mine! Cheers, Tom Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimcwestie Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Steve, I had the same problem with the clutch and my TR6. I found the dowels were missing and loosened the bell housing bolts and fitted the dowels, then tightened up. It worked for me. Best of luck. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 (edited) As ever, the more you look the more you find....... As I began to strip the car to get to the gearbox this morning, I noticed there was a lot of play in the clutch pedal - both vertically and horizontally. The attached video shows this at the connection to the clutch master cylinder. https://goo.gl/photos/2XRUCeh6uqGC2jHs7 What I don't know is whether or not this is normal and if not: - how much of an impact it might be having on my clutch problems and what I need to do to fix it? All input gratefully received as usual. Thanks Steve Edited November 13, 2015 by Percy TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 By the looks of it you need to change the bushes on the pedal box, not difficult but you will need to unbolt the pedal set and then do it on the bench. That will help to eliminate play which is often the problem with these clutch systems. You also seem to have back and fore play as well. Check the clevis pin hole in the pedal for elongation as well. Either weld it up and re-drill to the right size or re-bush it. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) You also seem to have back and fore play as well. Stuart. Stuart - will the bushes address the back & fore play too? There doesn't appear to be any wear at the slave end. EDITED: SORRY - just re-read your post Stuart & realise you mean where the pedal connects to the master & not at the slave! All makes sense now! Steve Edited November 14, 2015 by Percy TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Percy If you don't have the welding ability to sort the holes in the pedal, I fitted an adjustable master push rod, adjust it so the pedal is just free and no load onto the push rod, when the pedal is at the top. Not sure where I got mine now, could have been Revington. This will restore a lot of slave cylinder travel, which will allow the clutch to open more. Have you also checked the crank fore and aft movement, this will also affect clutch travel. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) Well, having looked at the car this morning, it would seem that there is wear in the clevis pin hole in the pedal and on the holes in the master cylinder push rod. I read somewhere on the forum that even a little play at the pedal end translates into a big difference at the clutch, so here's hoping. I also noticed there are no return springs fitted..... Next step is to inspect the bell housing and determine if dowels are fitted. I'm hoping that I will be able to better align the gearbox, remove the play in the pedal and clutch mechanism and maybe have a nice smooth clutch once again. Fingers crossed. Steve Edited November 14, 2015 by Percy TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) Bit confused now...the Brown Book mentions 9 upper & 7 lower bolts holding the gearbox to the engine and on my car there does seem to be 16 bolts around the bell housing but there also appears to be one missing - ie it looks like there should be 17 bolts. The missing one is in the bottom left quadrant - above where the dowel should be. Is this normal? Edited November 14, 2015 by Percy TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) Double post in error Edited November 14, 2015 by Percy TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Well, it's taken a while but I have finally completed the gearbox/clutch challenge. Unbolted the gearbox & installed the 2 dowel alignment bolts (which were missing) Installed new bushes on the clutch & brake pedals Installed an adjustable push rod at the clutch master cylinder to take up the excess play due to wear on the pedal I now have a smooth progressive clutch & the release bearing no longer squeals! Let's hope it stays that way. I realise this is basic stuff to many on the forum but finding the courage to start unbolting the bell housing was a huge step for me! Thanks as usual to all those who patiently responded to my numptie questions - it is appreciated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Good Man!! Should be chuffed with yourself. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
marki Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Yep. Well done Steve, it's very satisfying when it turns out well. You should be proud. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Percy TR6 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Yep - well chuffed! Next on the list are the rear hubs....as soon as Santa has been. :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Well done Steve, good job . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimcwestie Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Great news will make driving the TR6 a more pleasurable experience. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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