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Well both successfully separated, bottom lip corroded so I cut that off all the way along .

Drilled spot welds out down both sides, eased the fold along the back edge and out she came.

Wasn't quite that easy lots of easing here and there.

Clean up time now , bit of welding and paint.

Mark

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I have had to do that before on them and when you put it back together use weldthru primer in all the areas between the skins.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UPOL-Weld-Thru-Primer-Power-Can-4-x-500ml-/391263266554?hash=item5b191ba6fa:g:m8EAAOSw9r1V-U5n

Stuart.

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Thanks Stuart,

Have some on order should have picked up last week.

What sealant adhesive should I use to replace the existing?.

Looking at the way these strengthened panels are put together when they are chemically stripped of paint does it affect the sealant?.

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Chemical strip will probably remove all the sealer, originally they would have had the frame bonded to the skin in around the webbing. I would use a 2 part bonding agent like they use for bonding on outer panels on a lot of modern cars like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-van-boat-truck-no-need-for-welding-metal-panel-bonding-glue-adhesive-epoxy-/221240120421?hash=item3382f05465:g:XlMAAOxyiRlSamrB

Stuart.

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  • 9 months later...

Bought myself a used rust free boot lid . I have had that and all external panels chemically cleaned and etch primed.

What is the best way to bond the two skins together again on the boot and bonnet. Should I also look to wax the cavities.

Mark.

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To get the best bond you should really have done it before priming. The bonding stuff I listed above is a good one to use, just squeeze it into the gap between the frame and the skin where required and wipe off excess and let it cure.Once its painted then yes get some waxoyl or similar into as much as possible.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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