MRG1965 Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Hi guys and girls One of my winter jobs is to sort out the front suspension issues I have on my 64 Tr4, one side is 0 degrees and the other is 3 degrees as I found recently when the tracking was checked. I'm in ths process of cleaning the suspension parts in a home made electrolytic bath, which is doing a very nice job. Also tried the molasses bath, but not convinced it works, but it is keeping the cleaned parts rust free while I work through the remaining parts, so must have some positive effects. But now I need to paint the parts. My question to the knowledgeable group is what should I use to paint the parts with to keep looking nice for a fair few years to come. Don't really want to use Hammerite or anything that might crack or chip easily. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 Lidle do a good "direct to metal" gloss paint called (metal paint with rust protection" made by Baufix I have found this to better than Hammerite smoothrite ever was. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 I found that powder coating proved an excellent medium. Its extremely cheap, looks very good, very long lasting, and I found a lighter colour that I did would show up any further problems than black. I did the chassis a darker grey see pics. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 I used Hermetite engine paint, which is oil-based so it doesn't chip. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 When I did my 6 suspension I used POR15. On a score of 1-10, Hammerite currently scores 1.(****, waste of money!) POR is 9. it does not chip, but even if it did, you can touch up, unlike powder coat. use their topcoat over the 'satin' paint, as it is quite dull in appearance. the only reason I give it 9, is because of 2 things. 1. It is quite expensive. 2. It does not come off your skin/anywhere you don't want it, so wear gloves and buy the thinners!! over a year on, i still have spots on my garage floor! the only way to get it off, is chisel or grinder! when properly cured, you can file it right back to bare metal before it gives up! yes, it seems to be that tough! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 My suspension bits are painted with POR-15, too. I like the stuff a lot, although John is right on about it being a b*tch to handle. It's sprayable, in theory, but I wouldn't dream of anything but a brush that can be disposed of at the end of the session. It's a urethane-based paint catalyzed by exposure to atmospheric moisture. I buy the smallest cans they sell so I don't have to close up a can for future use. That doesn't work very well with POR-15 -- if it's any time at all the paint is likely to be solid all the way through. The regular POR-15 is a nice glossy black, but it isn't UV stable and needs a topcoat to prevent it turning dull and weathering if it's used on something exposed to sunlight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel Triumph Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 +1 for POR-15. Nigel Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 24, 2015 Report Share Posted October 24, 2015 I used the same paint that I put on the frame, Eastwood chassis black extreme. I also like the POR15 paint but it does go on pretty thick so watch out for interfaces with tight tolerances. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 +1 for POR15 and I can second all the comments about handling the stuff. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 (edited) +1 for the chassis black plus a Bondarustrpimer undercoat. Chassis black is relatively soft and adsorbs stone hits unlike powder coating or any hard finish. Yes it will need looking at every two or three years. Believe me, you will be there quite often enough with other problems to see what is going on. It is easy to remove from both skin and the component should it ever need stripping. And is fairly cheap. Roger Edited October 25, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Mine is POR-15 coated. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 I found good results from the following : Cold galvanising. http://www.zinga-uk.com/approved-applicators Over painted with their PU Tarfree M10 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Thanks all for the options. Think I'll try the zinc bonda rust primer and chassis black. Peter, nice looking chassis. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted October 25, 2015 Report Share Posted October 25, 2015 Thanks all for the options. Think I'll try the zinc bonda rust primer and chassis black. Peter, nice looking chassis. Mark The body was nice too Mark, long gone now Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 The body was nice too Mark, long gone now [/quote Very nice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyloz Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 So how much por15 do you need to paint a tr3 chassis? Also do you need thinners? Thanks Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 POR15 comes in quite small cans (and is bl**dy expensive), and I used about 1 1/2 cans. I tried to seal the remainder of the 1/2 tin with cling film for re-use later but when I re-opened the can it had gone solid. I bought some of the special POR15 thinners to clean up with but to be honest it was a waste of money and you are better off using brushes that you can bulk buy from Lidl or similar and throwing them away afterwards. Oh, and one interesting point, I had a slight brake fluid leak from a union and over time brake fluid dissolves the stuff. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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