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Hello guys, I'm new to this thing called TR6 ownership so please forgive my 'wet behind the ears' approach. I'm a Brit living in the Middle East and imported a 1976, US-spec TR6 a few months ago, with the idea that I'd use it during the winter months while keeping it in storage during the insane summer temperatures. When I was a kid in 1980, my dad ran one for a year or so, which is when I was bitten by the bug. It's only now I've been able to scratch that itch.

 

My car was built in the last month of production and was treated to a body-off restoration a few years ago, since when it has been in storage. To get it ready for regular use, I've had some work carried out, during which it was discovered that one of the Stromberg carbs is actually cracked and leaking fuel, albeit only slightly, and they are both desperate for an overhaul.

 

After fruitless searches for a company (anywhere) that can help, I've decided to replace both carbs for new items but I have been unable to locate the serial numbers for either, so that Burlen can supply me with newly manufactured SU items. I'm not too fussed about originality, more interested in reliability, so it seems the sensible thing to do. So my two questions to you are thus:

 

1. Where might I find the serial numbers on the bodies of the existing Strombergs (the identity tags have long since disappeared)?

2. If Burlen's man is right and the replacement would be SU model FZX 3054, what air filters would work best and where might I find them?

 

Any help would be massively appreciated – this car is stunning in every respect and I'm itching to get out there in it, to embarrass all the supercar owners and remind myself and others what a true British sports car is all about. It turns heads here more than any Italian exotica and I'm proud to own such a beauty. And the pesky carb issue, once properly sorted, should be the final hurdle.

 

Sorry for waffling on, and thanks in advance for any assistance.

 

Kevin

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http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm

 

A nice link about TR6 strombergs above and, below, an exploded diagram of strombergs showing the tags below.

 

http://trf.zeni.net/TR6bluebook/29.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1200

 

So if you are very last month AND nothing chnaged you would be 175CD-2SEVX

 

unless they fitted something else as it was lying around.

Snowy

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Unless you have your heart set on a pair of shiny SUs, an alternative approach might be to source a couple of Strombergs from ebay and then order the correct rebuild kit from Burlen FS. That way, at least you will know you have the correct set up for your car.

 

With SUs, you may need different linkage components and you will also be messing around with needles to get the best compromise for your car. This can't be done properly without time on a rolling road.

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Are you sure there is a crack ?

Most common reason for a ZS carb to leak is an O-ring around the plug in the bottom of the float chamber needing replacement.

If that's the case I think a complete rebuild would still be in order using the Buckeye link that 'Snowy' provided as a guide.

I don't know where you'll be getting the parts for your rebuild, but make sure you get the Throttle Bypass Valve diaphragm.

Over here it's not usually included in the kit and must be ordered separately.

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If the engine is stock I do not see the need to swap.

The job will not be finished with shiny new SUs.

 

Often the new carbs are seen as the promised land but in reality they

are only a bit superior due to proper spindle bearings and inner parts

but maybe still not perfect from setup.

 

All the fiddeling with numbers and engine types have their limits at 40 year old

cars where often people have modified something that affects carb setup.

Mainly cam, compression, exhaust and air filters are named to affect setup.

 

If carb needs diaphragms you get away with 20 bucks and have a proper set engine.

 

If a complete overhaul is envisaged this is a good adress as for getting parts:

 

http://www.su-stromberg.de/HTML/content/pages/Impressum.php

 

Pretty often a mailfunction of the carbs is caused or amplified by bad ignition.

Nearly almost of our TR6 engines accept 30 degree max advance and a add

of 10 degree of part throttle advance. It should be checked if both systems

are on bord and work properly -before- fiddeling on the carbs is started.

Edited by TriumphV8
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These guys are also good for Stromberg parts http://www.sciperformance.co.uk/ and as Poolboy says usual leak is the "O" ring under the float chamber.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Thanks so much guys, really appreciate the input – I'll have them properly checked over the next few days. The engineer looking after it is as good as it gets in this part of the world but he doesn't know too much about old BL machines and there's so much spurious information online that it's difficult to know which way to turn. I should have joined this forum weeks ago, thanks again.

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Hi Kevin

Having spent the last ten years in Qatar/Oman I know what the weather can be,a few ideas for you I have owed a TR6 for 15 years with twin SU you may need these

Alloy Rad

Oil cooler

Ken low fan

oil feed pipe from block to rocket cover

Have a look at goodparts.com for Ram air induction kit it will get very hot under a tr bonnett

If you need help try Paul Lomax at AL Haddad Motors he is the service manager and a good friend and knows triumphs

 

Any help just ask

 

Rod

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Hi Rod,

 

At a technical point of view can you explain (and document, why on very hot conditions (like Quatar) the SU carb, will be better compare to the Stromberg (Same architecture except the membrane) ?

 

Regards

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I don't know how Southwest Mississippi in the Summer compares to Quatar, but fuel percolation in the ZS carb float chamber, which is located at the very bottom of the ZS carb, contributed to hard restarts of an already hot engine and to rough running until fresh 'cooler' fuel displaced the boiling fuel in the float chamber.

I tried several 'remedies' including but not limited to rerouting the fuel delivery line to the carbs.

It was not until I added insulation to the floor of the ARE heat shield did I actually cure the problem

Blue001.jpg

TR6heatShield.jpg

Edited by poolboy
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