andy taylor Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 I have read on several sites of a cradle to help lower and raise the differential on a tr. I am about to remove my diff for renovation( when I have managed to remove the one awkward nut, you know there is always one isn't there) and want to know if anyone has a picture or a plan of a cradle so that I could build one. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Hi Andy, Ivor on here a while ago showed a pic of his. Very simple Dexion thing on top of a TRolley jack. The clever bit is making it stay on the TRolley jack - imagination. Should be easy to knock something up. I thought about making very long studs that would attach to the diff pins - you could then lower it down slowly - but tedious. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andy taylor Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Thanks Roger, do you have an address for Ivor so I could look at the picture? Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Ivor is '88V8', and his Dexion cradle is here, post 4: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/16113-rear-axle-pinion-shaft-oil-seal/ Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 When I refitted mine, I took the 'soft' option and used a load of the builders PU foam stuff squirted under the (freshly painted/wrapped in a bin bag) diff while it was fixed to a 'bespoke' pallet offcut with luggage/bike rack straps. Worked quite well, as they are very nose heavy! My advice would be, get an assistant! Doing mine alone was a killer (nearly!) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 At the risk of being exorcised from the Stag forum the Stag has similar "buqqer that's heavy" diff problems and there's a very comprehensive description which includes many photos of diff removal and flang securing http://www.donkennedy.co.uk/Diff/Diff.htm Don Kennedy has outlined and overcome some of the diff problems that you may find useful on our IRS cars also, and has some photos attached of interest including this "whizz bang" jack cradle for the diff Quote Link to post Share on other sites
andy taylor Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Many thanks to Roger and Motorsport Mickey. Good pics. John looks like I will have to get "she who must be obeyed" to flex those muscles on this job. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 Hello all Just question - whats the most likely cause of a diff whining ? Tks Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
OAF939M Posted October 5, 2015 Report Share Posted October 5, 2015 I've got a Liftmaster motorcycle platform lift.Load 680kg.you just make up a simple plywood platform to place across the side members of the jack. They are around £70,I have had mine for around 12 years ,the slip underneath the car,and I have had numerous gearboxes out of various cars. They are on Amazon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
heckler Posted October 6, 2015 Report Share Posted October 6, 2015 I made a wood cradle / platform with timber at sides to stop diff moving . Removed cup from trolley jack & bolted cradle to jack .( cup easily replaced after , halfords jack) . Sounds a bit crude but does the job ok. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) Hello all Just question - whats the most likely cause of a diff whining ? Tks Bill Like in real life: The diff is sad because being set up not perfect! When crown wheel and pinion are out of perfect setup the teeth do not meet in the middle of each other. That causes noise but if not loud it does no harm. You do the setup by shimming pinion forward and backwards and the crownwheel to left and right. In addition you have to give both wheels a bearings preload that the found position to each other is also kept as good as possible under high load. To be honest I do not always meet that perfect setup but as my homemade diff for my V8 withstands the power for more than 10 years that seems to be sufficient. Edited October 7, 2015 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 7, 2015 Report Share Posted October 7, 2015 Diff Noise Read this article it has a few useful tips about diff noise. http://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-warrior/understanding-rear-differential-noise/ My first approach after an oil level check is to re-tighten the split pinned nut holding the drive flange on to its correct torque. << 120ftlb I think >> If you have a nyloc nut here do not mess with the torque of the nut as you will need to know the resistance to rotation/pinion bearing preload - Not as easy to fix under the car as you need to take the crown wheel out and the pinion flange seal must be removed. Read the article given in an earlier post, it touches all the correct bits of info. http://www.donkennedy.co.uk/Diff/Diff.htm Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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