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I have read on several sites of a cradle to help lower and raise the differential on a tr. I am about to remove my diff for renovation( when I have managed to remove the one awkward nut, you know there is always one isn't there) and want to know if anyone has a picture or a plan of a cradle so that I could build one.

 

Andy

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Hi Andy,

Ivor on here a while ago showed a pic of his. Very simple Dexion thing on top of a TRolley jack.

 

The clever bit is making it stay on the TRolley jack - imagination.

 

Should be easy to knock something up.

 

I thought about making very long studs that would attach to the diff pins - you could then lower it down slowly - but tedious.

 

Roger

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When I refitted mine, I took the 'soft' option and used a load of the builders PU foam stuff squirted under the (freshly painted/wrapped in a bin bag) diff while it was fixed to a 'bespoke' pallet offcut with luggage/bike rack straps.

Worked quite well, as they are very nose heavy!

My advice would be, get an assistant!

Doing mine alone was a killer (nearly!)

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At the risk of being exorcised from the Stag forum the Stag has similar "buqqer that's heavy" diff problems and there's a very comprehensive description which includes many photos of diff removal and flang securing

 

http://www.donkennedy.co.uk/Diff/Diff.htm

 

Don Kennedy has outlined and overcome some of the diff problems that you may find useful on our IRS cars also, and has some photos attached of interest including this "whizz bang" jack cradle for the diff

 

 

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I've got a Liftmaster motorcycle platform lift.Load 680kg.you just make up a simple plywood platform to place across the side members of the jack.

 

They are around £70,I have had mine for around 12 years ,the slip underneath the car,and I have had numerous gearboxes out of various cars.

They are on Amazon

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Hello all

 

Just question - whats the most likely cause of a diff whining ?

 

Tks

Bill

Like in real life:

The diff is sad because being set up not perfect!

When crown wheel and pinion are out of perfect setup

the teeth do not meet in the middle of each other.

That causes noise but if not loud it does no harm.

 

You do the setup by shimming pinion forward and backwards and

the crownwheel to left and right. In addition you have to give

both wheels a bearings preload that the found position to each other

is also kept as good as possible under high load.

 

To be honest I do not always meet that perfect setup

but as my homemade diff for my V8 withstands the power

for more than 10 years that seems to be sufficient.

Edited by TriumphV8
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Diff Noise

 

Read this article it has a few useful tips about diff noise.

http://fuelandfriction.com/weekend-warrior/understanding-rear-differential-noise/

 

My first approach after an oil level check is to re-tighten the split pinned nut holding the drive flange on to its correct torque. << 120ftlb I think >>

 

If you have a nyloc nut here do not mess with the torque of the nut as you will need to know the resistance to rotation/pinion bearing preload - Not as easy to fix under the car as you need to take the crown wheel out and the pinion flange seal must be removed.

 

Read the article given in an earlier post, it touches all the correct bits of info. http://www.donkennedy.co.uk/Diff/Diff.htm

 

Cheers

Peter W

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