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Classic Driving Development.

It is a bolt on conversion with no welding.I have had it on my TR5 since 2008 or thereabouts and rate it very highly.Had to fit it due to a health problem at the time and it was fit power steering or the TR5 had to go.So no contest.My other one I built into a concours winning TR5 is as it came out of the factory. Heavy steering but a delight to drive.Triumph got it right from day one. Lovely,lovely cars.

Regards Harry.

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Hi Frank.

Was speaking at the weekend with a chum whose wife has an MG TF (2005 'vintage').

Apparently they have very clever electric PAS, and very small mechanisms.

Due to the huge numbers they were sold in, and the fact there is at least one in every scrappy I have ever seen, it may be viable to investigate??

Just mind your neck when looking under the dash!!

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Hi Frank,

if you are enquiring about EPAS because the steering is heavy have you ruled out the steering/suspension geometry and tyres making it heavy.

 

I recently sorted all four corners of my 4A and the difference it made was incredible.

I've been driving it for 17 years pointing the wrong way.

Now that it points and drives forwards it is very good and quite light. Even at low speed it is fine.

I have a 13" steering wheel

 

Roger

Hi Roger

Is there a easy TR4 "Ideal" geometry sheet somewhere - also is it easy to sort - my rear end seems to have a lot of toe-in is that usual?

thanks

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Have a look here for some details http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/AdjRS/AdjRS.htm

 

If you have 'toe-in' at the back then you have a TR4A.

Toe-in is adjusted with shims between the TRailing arm and the chassis.

You may well have camber issues as well. The above link should help - but it is a great deal of work.

 

TRy and get you car wheel alignment done at a Hunter Hawkeye garage. Grays in Hanwell (West London) is nearest to me.

 

See reply to your other post.

 

Roger

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TRy and get you car wheel alignment done at a Hunter Hawkeye garage. Grays in Hanwell (West London) is nearest to me.

.... or buy an electronic levelling gauge and a Gunsons Trakrite

and do the job at home in a plain garage or a plain ground elsewhere.

 

Toe in at the rear is often a result of old rubbers in the trailing arms.

The inner steel tube is no longer centered.

Also the camber is not changed in minutes if you do not have the

adjustable brackets. So I prefer to do that with patience at home.

 

Be aware that the toe in changes with changing camber.

For every degree change you have to add a plate at each side.

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Hi Andreas,

i am very lucky, my local Hunter equipped garage is 4 miles down the road and does not charge for the measuring - only the adjustment.

 

I got mine measured on all four corners. Took it home. Read the Buckeye information and then spent the next three days sorting it out.

Took it back to the garage and the results were pretty good. The garage then did the toe-in adjustment.

 

As you say - if you change the rear camber then you affect the height and possibly the toe-in.

 

This cost £48

 

 

Roger

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  • 1 month later...

just a quick note for those who are unsure, weve recently fitted our easysteer EPS setup on a tr6,, its a bit tight with all the heater ducting etc, but it has 100% totally transformed the car, even i was shocked how well it drove after the conversion,, a good grease of the ball joints/trunions and rack also helped :D also done the dart <_<

http://s187.photobucket.com/user/mk2mania/slideshow/tr6%20electric%20power%20steering%20easysteer

 

 

6tag_031215-105345_zpstgz76ync.jpg

Edited by mk2mania
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