mustangchris Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 Can anyone help me please. As per my post below, I have just bought in a TR6 from the US and I'd like to try to see if it will start. Can anyone give me some tips on best way to go about it please. I have no idea how long is has been stored and I guess I'm going to have replace the fuel lines, clean out the tank etc ? Chris http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/53942-new-71-tr6-project-from-california/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 You could see if it starts with fuel hose dipped into a jerry can of fuel. But yes careful inspection of all parts, replacement of all rubber parts and drain, flush and refill all fluids. New brake pads. Clear the mice out of the seat stuffing. If you search here or google for "recommissioning" you will no doubt find other advice inc. new tyres if it has been standing on them or if they are more than six years old. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted September 29, 2015 Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 Plugs out, teaspoon of oil into each bore, jack a rear wheel off ground, put in gear and see if the engine turns over by heaving on the rear tyre. If rings aren't seized then you can try starting it, with fire extinguihser at the ready as there may well be leaking fuel. So start it in the open air not in a garage ! The clutch may well have siezed onto the flywheel which will make it impossible to get into gear with engine running. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mustangchris Posted September 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 John/Peter, Thanks chaps, very useful. Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sparkplug Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) Chris- Please change your oil. I started my tr6 after about 10 years stored in my garage, and didn't change the oil beforehand. On cranking, I heard two loud snaps. I had broken off two rocker arm tips, due to the oil being like molasses. The valves were seized. Had to pull the head. It got expensive. George. Edited October 2, 2015 by Sparkplug Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 George, Hopefully my preferred method of hand cranking from a rear wheel would have uncovered siezed valves by their resistance. A starter motor gives a rather hefty sudden shock compared with hand cranking. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sparkplug Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 Peter- That is great advice, although it's a bit late now! If I had only knew. George. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ptjs1 Posted October 2, 2015 Report Share Posted October 2, 2015 (edited) Chris, There's a difference between what you should do before (trying) to start the car, and what you need to do to recommission it for use. And there a few items that fall between the two. As you're intending to recommission and then ultimately use the car, here's my suggestion to do the following before trying to start it: - Change the oil and filter - Drain the old petrol from tank - Change the fuel filter - Put fresh petrol (or disconnect fuel feed pipe to filter and run pipe to jerrycan of fresh petrol). - Rocker cover off to examine valve train - Plugs out and teaspoon of oil as per Peter - Turn engine via crank nut until pistons and valves seem free to turn - Assuming now all ok, check clutch not stuck - Disconnect fuel feed to carbs, turn engine over until fresh fuel and no sediment coming through pipe to carbs. Reconnect pipe. - Check carb butterfly operation and diaphragm integrity - Turn engine over on starter, check valve train operation and mind oil splashes! - Check ignition wiring integrity and spark at removed plugs when turning engine by starter - Refit spark plugs & rocker cover Fit new plugs if old ones clearly worn. (Can fit new rocker gasket later) Only then would I try and start engine (use jerrycan petrol feed if sediment still coming from tank even with fresh petrol. Have a fire extinguisher to hand! Good luck Paul Edited October 2, 2015 by ptjs1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mustangchris Posted November 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Thanks guys for these tips, saw the car for the first time since I took delivery today, still there thankfully. Will soon be asking some more questions on battery type etc, sorry in advance for do many questions Starting to get excited about the car now, just an issue working on it as the car is in storage at the moment and we are in a temporary flat with no garage whilst searching for a house, this is driving me mad ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
oldtuckunder Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Chris, There's a difference between what you should do before (trying) to start the car, and what you need to do to recommission it for use. And there a few items that fall between the two. As you're intending to recommission and then ultimately use the car, here's my suggestion to do the following before trying to start it: - Change the oil and filter - Drain the old petrol from tank - Change the fuel filter - Put fresh petrol (or disconnect fuel feed pipe to filter and run pipe to jerrycan of fresh petrol). - Rocker cover off to examine valve train - Plugs out and teaspoon of oil as per Peter - Turn engine via crank nut until pistons and valves seem free to turn - Assuming now all ok, check clutch not stuck - Disconnect fuel feed to carbs, turn engine over until fresh fuel and no sediment coming through pipe to carbs. Reconnect pipe. - Check carb butterfly operation and diaphragm integrity - Turn engine over on starter, check valve train operation and mind oil splashes! - Check ignition wiring integrity and spark at removed plugs when turning engine by starter - Refit spark plugs & rocker cover Fit new plugs if old ones clearly worn. (Can fit new rocker gasket later) Only then would I try and start engine (use jerrycan petrol feed if sediment still coming from tank even with fresh petrol. Have a fire extinguisher to hand! Good luck Paul +1 Plus change the gearbox oil and diff oil before moving it. Then check for oil leaks, especially timing chain cover, rear crank, gearbox rear seal, diff pinion seal. These all suffer badly from standing. If you get through all these and its looking good, and you think its worth a test drive, come back for the further test list, or at least the list of things to keep an eye on as they are likely to fail after a long sleep. But it will be fun, enjoy! Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 And do not forget to check the belt (Water pump and alternator) and the coolant system (Liquid, Radiator and hoses) Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Johncracknell Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Spray wd40 over the rockers and down plug holes everyday for a week, then change the oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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