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Tr6 bonnet won't open


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Ernie

 

Try a good thump above the latch with a lightly closed fist

 

Has helped me in the past

 

Not so hard as to dent the bonnet

 

Good luck

 

Garze

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Hi all the trouble is when tried to shut the bonnet before this happened it did not just shut like it always dose. I notice the spring was slightly bent I turned the spring then it shut but looking now it has depressed lower than normal ,Thanks for all your advice .

I have tried the ideas and so far no luck has anybody tried to get through the front or under where the starter is & up to the lock

Regards

Ernie Turner

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The above does work on RHD cars but you have to remove the speedo or Rev counter (can't remember which) but I had to do the same many years ago when I had exactly the same issue. Ended up rummaging about with a long screwdriver but got the 'g' spot eventually and popped the bonnet. I put in an emergency release after ...

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It sounds like what happened is the same as my problem a while back. The locking nut on the bonnet catch cone wasn't tight which allowed the cone to rotate out of alignment with the bulkhead catch. On the 4a you can remove the offside headlamp and slacken the bonnet hinge to allow a bit of wiggling. Can't be done on the 6 though aiui.

Edited by peejay4A
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Following on from Peejay's comment, (from memory) is the bonnet catch cone 'slotted' like the head of a screw?

Could you get a size FB screwdriver up from inside the footwell, and undo/wiggle it, like a long screw?

I know it has a locknut, but maybe it would play ball?

I would sooner drill a 1/2 diameter hole there than risk external bonnet damage!

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Most of the cures seem to relate to a broken cable but if you have the backup installed it sounds like your spring/latch mechanism is jammed. As far as I can see, various versions of "bash/wiggle it around a bit" is the fix. Followed by lots of grease when you do get it open +/- ensure all is lining up.

 

If you are prodding about through the firewall or under the car use a broomstick, not metal in RHD... rather close to the Pos battery terminal...

Try these:

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/27118-bonnet-wont-open-on-tr6/

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/22628-help-bonnet-stuck/

 

"Another method that sometimes works is again with an assistant pulling the cable stand in front of the car and with your fingers under the leading edge of the bonnet push the bonnet rearwards and then pull forwards.
Stuart."

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Out of interest which "off the counter" backup mechanism do folk recommend?

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Hi Ernie;

I had a similar problem after closing the bonnet a little less carefully (actually allowed it to drop!!) in driving rain at Nurburgring after I had retrieved cloths drying on the engine.

 

The flimsy keep was deflected down the side of the latch mounting and hooked up on the bottom. No amount of emergency cables would release this of course and the bonnet would only lift by a very small amount. Well and truly snookered and apart from drilling holes in the bulkhead I think I tried all the previous suggestions.

 

Sorry to be a harbinger but in the end it was necessary to REMOVE the damned bonnet (viel geld!!) by removing hinge bolts. This turned out to be a pig of a job and my man looked as though he was into self-harming.

 

Best of luck.

Rog

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I purchased the after market safety kit after reading Alans woes a while back but have not fitted it as i don't want to drill the hole in the bulkhead to fit the operating rod.Any ideas on a different solution for this ?

 

ROY

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I have fitted an extra cable in the TR4 position i.e. r/hand side footwell pull and have a double mounted cable connector on the end lever. Takes less effort than the left hand pull and looks as if it should be there. Or the usual bracket and downward rod type (but with an end stop as noted above)

Stuart.

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If you use a cable you may be able to fiddle it through an existing hole/gap somehow??

 

I drilled a 3/16 dia hole and inserted a nylon bushed rubber grommet (from work stuff)

 

Works well, and nestles up under the drivers footwell with a 3" long aluminium extruded bar 'handle'

Also a boon when you are working on the car, and can't be ars*d to run around to the passenger side!!

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If it's still a problem, l would get / borrow an endoscope and position it from under the car, preferably on a ramp, so you can see the catch them fabricate something to get there from underneath to release the catch - probably a two man operation.

A couple of hours messing around with this method could save a world of pain.

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