Mark (tenpin) Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Hi All just been round to help a fellow TR2 owner as he is having problems bleeding his breaks! When pumping the pedal there appears to be no flow being generated by the master cylinder Moving it rapidly seams to produce some restriction in the pedal but only a short distance at the bottom sometimes He has had the axil off to replace suspension struts and replaced pipework last bit was bleeding the breaks we have tried each wheel and erratic movement, in despair we have removed the master cylinder, although all seals look in good order Any ideas to help? Have we done the right thing ? your time would be gratefully received (it would be much easier on my TR4a Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 For years I use the Gunsons Brake Bleeder and helped a lot of my friends with similar problems. It is necessary to establish a constant flow through the brake lines during bleeding to bring the last droplet of air out of the system. In addition the air in the system comprises when system is empty and does not transport fluid through the pipes when pumping with the pedal. Also my personal opinion is that the quality of modern master cylinders is very poor and I like to avoid half day pumping and maybe spoiling the cylinder rubber gasket by this job. So whatever is in use, either pressure from the top or suction at the brake cylinders, a constant flow system should be used and than the problem will be solved quickly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 You may have to start with the pipe that comes out of the master cylinder, back the nut off half a turn, press the pedal down slowly and hold it on the floor while you tighten the nut again. You may have to do this a few times until you get fluid coming out then go to the left hand rear wheel and continue the process making sure you close off the bleeder before the pedal is released. Good luck Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Graham Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Assume you have Lockheed dual master cylinder. Earlier this summer I had lots of trouble bleeding the clutch using both conventional method and trying to use vacuum. I decided to go with pressure bleeding. BTW, the brakes bled easily using method described in manual. I made a simple flat steel plate and installed a tire valve. After installation of plate, couple of pumps with bicycle pump, open bleeder at slave, and air and fluid shot out into bleeder bottle. One more conventional bleed to make sure all OK and I was done. Total time to make plate maybe 30 minutes, cost about $3.00, bleed time less than 5 minutes, level of frustration zero. Might be worth a try. Doesn't need much pressure, and make sure master reservoir does not go dry. Some pictures attached for those who are interested. Cheers, Mike Edited September 17, 2015 by Mike Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted September 17, 2015 Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 That looks the business Mike, sorry Mark i didn't take into account it is a TR2 just went on what i did with the 3A. Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark (tenpin) Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2015 Hi All thanks for your time I will pass on your experiences and try and get the job done Will let you know Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark (tenpin) Posted September 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2015 Hi All thanks for your help another problem sorted with Members help Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mleadbeater Posted September 28, 2015 Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 I always bleed using my air compressor set to around five psi, through a rubber bung which is a good fit onto the reservoir top. Make sure the master cylinder is free to extend fully, ie the pedal pushrod screw is not too far out, otherwise the piston will not clear the intake port on the piston cylinder, stopping the intake of fresh fluid. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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