bleeding breaks

[Mark (tenpin)]

Hi All

just been round to help a fellow TR2 owner as he is having problems bleeding his breaks!

 

When pumping the pedal there appears to be no flow being generated by the master cylinder

Moving it rapidly seams to produce some restriction in the pedal but only a short distance at the bottom sometimes

 

He has had the axil off to replace suspension struts and replaced pipework last bit was bleeding the breaks

 

we have tried each wheel and erratic movement, in despair we have removed the master cylinder, although all seals look in good order

 

Any ideas to help?

Have we done the right thing ?

 

your time would be gratefully received (it would be much easier on my TR4a

 

Mark

[TriumphV8]

For years I use the Gunsons Brake Bleeder and helped a lot

of my friends with similar problems. It is necessary to establish

a constant flow through the brake lines during bleeding to

bring the last droplet of air out of the system.

 

In addition the air in the system comprises when system is empty

and does not transport fluid through the pipes when pumping

with the pedal.

 

Also my personal opinion is that the quality of modern master cylinders

is very poor and I like to avoid half day pumping and maybe spoiling

the cylinder rubber gasket by this job.

 

So whatever is in use, either pressure from the top or suction at the

brake cylinders, a constant flow system should be used and than the

problem will be solved quickly.

[Graham Harris]

You may have to start with the pipe that comes out of the master cylinder, back the nut off half a turn, press the pedal down slowly and hold it on the floor while you tighten the nut again. You may have to do this a few times until you get fluid coming out then go to the left hand rear wheel and continue the process making sure you close off the bleeder before the pedal is released.

Good luck Graham

[Mike Graham]

Assume you have Lockheed dual master cylinder. Earlier this summer I had lots of trouble bleeding the clutch using both conventional method and trying to use vacuum. I decided to go with pressure bleeding. BTW, the brakes bled easily using method described in manual. I made a simple flat steel plate and installed a tire valve. After installation of plate, couple of pumps with bicycle pump, open bleeder at slave, and air and fluid shot out into bleeder bottle. One more conventional bleed to make sure all OK and I was done. Total time to make plate maybe 30 minutes, cost about $3.00, bleed time less than 5 minutes, level of frustration zero. Might be worth a try. Doesn't need much pressure, and make sure master reservoir does not go dry. Some pictures attached for those who are interested. Cheers, Mike

 

 

 

Edited September 17, 2015 by Mike Graham

[Graham Harris]

That looks the business Mike, sorry Mark i didn't take into account it is a TR2 just went on what i did with the 3A.

Graham

[Mark (tenpin)]

Hi All

thanks for your time

I will pass on your experiences and try and get the job done

Will let you know

Mark

[Mark (tenpin)]

Hi All

thanks for your help

another problem sorted with Members help

Mark

[mleadbeater]

I always bleed using my air compressor set to around five psi, through a rubber bung which is a good fit onto the reservoir top.

Make sure the master cylinder is free to extend fully, ie the pedal pushrod screw is not too far out, otherwise the piston will not clear the intake port on the piston cylinder, stopping the intake of fresh fluid.

 

Mike