JJC Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Happily driving home I noticed the temperature gauge dropping to the end stop. Then fuel gauge doing the same thing. My guess would be the voltage regulator. Do the experts agree? If so where does one buy a voltage regulator that will work reliably? JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Hi JJ, the VR is the common denominator. The original design worked well for many years. Not sure if repro's are up to it. But may be worth a try. Check out the wiring loom before you rip it apart. The solidstate regulators on ebay should work but are sadly lacking in a few components that would make them work reliably. You could always get a 1amp 10V regulator from Maplin and make your own. If you do put a 100uf capacitor form its input to earth and a 0.1uf capacitor from its out put to earth - this should ensure it survives. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Roger - I can find Maplin 'cos I went there yesterday to buy a clock battery. But will I be able to find my soldering iron? Same vintage as our TR2. 1954. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 ah, right. Buy an repro/original one then. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 I bought a 'solid state' replacement off eBay, been working well now for 2 years and 10k miles. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Now Steve, you know you shouldn't have said that!! You will need to carry a spare in your tool box from now on. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Superaquarama Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 (edited) The solidstate regulators on ebay should work but are sadly lacking in a few components that would make them work reliably. Naturally ! Solid state electronics seem to me notoriously unreliable. In our house we have 4 electric towel rails. Two are approx. 35 years old with mechanical thermostats, and have worked unfailingly year in, year out. The other two are "electronic", one lasted 2 years before the 'stat failed, the second has just given up this week, having lasted 4 years. We also have a similar age mechanical timer clock (plugs into a socket) which continues to work perfectly, having seen off half a dozen digital ones in the meantime. Same goes for washing machines, electric blankets, you name it - if it's electronic it's guaranteed to fail. Edited September 8, 2015 by Superaquarama Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 (edited) Did you ever notice you are sourrounded by explosives in your daily driver all controlled by electronics as there is the ABS system, also controlled by a little computer and many cars have electric PAS, what is controlled by a computer, too. Many things in this modern cars electronics can be set and changed by OBD2 interface as there is the steering going more right or left in neutral. With no doubt there are many mistakes being made when mounting electronics into our old cars but I would never like to miss my engine control and thief protection with central locking device and remote control. They are pretty reliable when done right. I have that in use for now about 15 years and it works! The regulators are pretty cheap: I paid 2 Euros for 10 items http://www.ebay.de/itm/310163013694?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also needed are the condensers: http://www.ebay.de/itm/252046255252?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ... and some glue to bring that all into the original regulator housing. A complete build of such an reliable electronic regulator is about 2 Euros each and 20 minutes of work. With the condensers it is reliable. Edited September 9, 2015 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRG1965 Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Hi I did see a nos voltage regulator on ebay from the states for about £30 with delivery when I suspected mine was faulty recently, don't know if it is still available. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlfredHitchcock Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 My ebay regulator lasted 5 mins. Opened it up to find no capacitors and the regulator fried. Made my own and so far as lasted 6 mins . Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 If the indicators fail too that's a fuse gone or one of the many with faulty end caps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 My response to the same questions in another topic: Posted 29 August 2015 - 09:19 PM Better to us a "Voltage transient Suppressor" these are very fast acting diodes which will protect the regulator from damage by over voltage. I used to design electonic circuits for use in a range of vehicles from cars to tractors to ships, & these were always specified. A capacitor will smooth out the transient to some extent, a TVS will clip it. https://en.wikipedia...tage_suppressor Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Hi Bob, my background is aero engine/airframe but have dabbled with sparks. From what I gathered the capacitors on the VR are to stop 'ringing' - which will give a rapid current rise. (this may be incorrect) The TVS will certainly remove any serious high spikes. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 I have opened up these electronic regulators. There are at least two completely different designs. Both suffer from insufficient heat-sinking, needed for a linear regulator rather than a switching-regulator. You could make electronic switching regulators, like the original mechanical switching type, but they wont fit in the tiny box. The problem comes when your tank is full and your engine is hot. Now both gauges take a lot of current at the same time. A cheap fix is to use TWO cheap regulators one for each gauge. Needs a bit of rewiring of course. The Moss ones seem about the best to me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Now Steve, you know you shouldn't have said that!! You will need to carry a spare in your tool box from now on. Roger Bugger. Had to send the brand new Ducati back today, not for one of its many electronic systems though but for the hydraulic clutch being all graunchy. Italian product made in August, how stupid of me! Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Not only that - the flasher unit has now failed. It's a Moss unit like the one in the 2 that failed a couple of months ago. I only have one original which I bodged to put in the 2. (Converted to screw connection). The electronic one I bought has the wrong polarity. Do you think my 1954 soldering iron will be useful or should I just get a big hammer? JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 10, 2015 Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Hi JJ, I gave up on those tin can flashers and now use a modernish one - http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/626/12-volt-4-pin-electronic-flasher-relay It has a separate earth tag and you will need the socket to anchor it with. As for the hammer - that is only used on things that should move and don't If it does move and it shouldn't then use Duct tape. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2015 Roger - thanks. Looks like that's the thing to get. And I won't need the hammer! And another thing. Discovered I've broken a rear shock absorber link. Can't claim to have discovered it through poor handling! JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuartmac Posted September 12, 2015 Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 probably ruled out already, or fixed now, but could a loose / blown fuse give the same result, I seem to remember the wipers going as well Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Willie Felger Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Hello JJC, I got a solid state one from TRGB. With wires already attached and clear instructions and It works perfectly. TRGB advertise in TRAction and do quick mail order Best regards, Willie Felger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Thanks for all the replies. Great place this Forum. I've ordered the unit as per Roger's post so if I wind up with flashing headlights it's all down to Roger. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pohim Posted September 13, 2015 Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 I will go with one of the glass fuse end cap drying out, my 5 had exact same fault. On inspection the fuses looked good, but on removing for continuity checks the end caps just fell off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Nope - it's both the voltage regulator and the flasher unit. And the broken shock absorber link. Thank goodness it's September. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JJC Posted September 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Right, the new shocker link arrived and fitted(with expert help to get the taper off the shock absorber). Actually the expert fitted it too. And the electronic flasher unit arrived. I checked with the supplier about the reverse polarity issue. They weren't 100%sure. Anyone know for sure if you can just swap earth and rail? It's 50 years since I did any electronics. I'm not sure it was even called that then. JJC Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 16, 2015 Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 (edited) The original stabilser isn't electronic - it is only just electrical. I believe it works on a thermal bi-metal strip that allows 12v through. Then the strip heats up and opens the connection where upon the output volts drop to zero 0V. The strip cools down and remakes the connection. This 12V, 0V, 12v caper gives a lower average volts (apprx 10V). Reversing the connection of an original should not be a problem. The electronic version reduces the 12V down to 10V and it stays there. Roger PS - only reverse the input and earth. Leave the output as the output. Edited September 16, 2015 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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