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Well round one of Stan vs Scuttle vent went to the vent. First problem was that the hole in the repro scuttle vent lid was an order of magnitude too small for the 1/4 inch pivot pin that needs to go through it. Should have tested that before the lid was painted. Masked up the lid to protect it and re-drilled it for the pivot pin.

 

Figured out that the order of assembly is to install the main linkage with the spring, then connect the rod, then install the lid, attach the spring and using all three hands, partially close the lid and while fighting the spring pressure, line up the short connecting bar with the hole in the lid and shove in the pivot pin.

 

At this point I could test it without taking the final step off putting the circlip on the pivot pin and I'm finding that with the operating rod only just inserted into the retainer by just enough to allow the bolt to grip it, the lid will not fully close because apparently there is not enough travel in the operating rod.

 

A question for those that have gone before me, how much of the rod did you shove through the fastener before you clamped it up ?

 

Stan

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Stan,

 

I can remember this being a pain and it took me an entire morning to sort it. I made some notes somewhere in case I ever had to do it again. I will look them out tomorrow and post them.

 

Rgds Ian

 

PS assuming Stuart doesn't beat me to it with the professionals' solution!

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Its not a professional that is required, but someone else's tall slender wife !

 

Yes, now I remember the secret to the installation. However that still leaves the question of the operating rod length and I can see that this could go downhill fast !.

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Is the rod new or is it the remains of an original as they tend to break off where the bolt clamps it.

I have this drawing on file that I think is from Don.

Stuart.

vent_pull_mechanism_zpshffadunm.jpg

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Stan,

 

I filed a point onto my operating rod to make it easier to thread through. I have tried without success to take a picture of mine but can confirm that the rod is only just inserted enough to allow the fastener to clamp it.

 

If you are already at the point that the rod isn't long enough to allow the lid to close, your only option is to increase the length of the rod because you have to push it in to close the lid. Or am I missing something?

 

Idiot question, but are you using the correct knob on the end of the rod, it should be an extended one. I bought a complete new dashboard knob set when I rebuilt my car and made the mistake of using an unmarked short knob that was in set the first time I assembled it and the rod wasn't long enough. the correct one to use is about 1 3/4" long overall.

 

My other tip is tie a piece of string or fishing line around the clevis pin before you start to insert it, makes it easier to reclaim it when you drop it. Same with the circlip.

 

Rgds Ian

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Stuart, the rod is the original although the car did not have a working scuttle vent when I got it (rotted out hinge) so I do not know if it is a known working operating rod. I didn't measure it but the next time I take it apart I will do that.

 

Ian, the knob is the longer one and I see nothing restricting how far it goes into the hole in the dash capping.

 

I did some further experiments and I find that if I insert the rod into the fixture just enough to trap it with the bolt then I can get the lid to more or less close. Probably to the point where the rubber seal is starting to interfere (yes I have trimmed it). It also seems to take more of an effort to open and close than I would consider reasonable but the lid is new and the hinge is stiff so I will lube that and try again.

 

Stan

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To Ian's point about dropping bits, yes that is a problem and I have had to use a telescoping magnet to rescue bits and tools that dropped and luckily went no further than the tray. Now I lay a shop towel in the hole to catch anything that succumbs to gravity before they end up in the heater.

 

Stan

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Stan, i know it's always safe to be wise after the event but i remember deciding it best to fit the vent flap before putting the body back on the chassis so i could stand in the engine bay up close to the scuttle because the operation is a bit of a fiddle.Cant remember all the details now in answer to your questions, sorry.

Graham

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Some pictures of the current state of the scuttle vent. Circlip is not yet installed so I can still take it apart easily. Other than what seems like a very tenuous connection to the operating rod this seems to me to be acceptable for now.

 

http://s38.photobucket.com/user/foster461/library/TR3A%20restoration%20project/28%20Aug%202015%20-%20Scuttle%20Vent

 

Stan

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Stan, i know it's always safe to be wise after the event but i remember deciding it best to fit the vent flap before putting the body back on the chassis so i could stand in the engine bay up close to the scuttle because the operation is a bit of a fiddle.Cant remember all the details now in answer to your questions, sorry.

Graham

 

I have small hands Graham so no problem getting in there and connecting things up. The neighbors lanky wife is safe.

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Photobucket not playing at the moment but you do have to make sure that the flap sits down well or it will catch on the back of the bonnet when opening.

Stuart.

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Stan - First I want to thank Stuart for acknowledging my sketch. Thank you Stuart. You are a gentleman !

 

I remember about 1970 buying a new vent full knob and pull-rod. When I installed it, I had no problem pulling on the knob and the vent lifted as it should. But when I later decided to close the vent, all that happened was that the rod buckled and the vent wouldn't close. The diameter of the push/pull rod was about half of what it should have been.

 

So I reinstalled the original one and that's still in my TR3A.

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Photobucket not playing at the moment but you do have to make sure that the flap sits down well or it will catch on the back of the bonnet when opening.

Stuart.

 

Something to check for when I fit the bonnet, thanks Stuart. I did have to make some adjustments to the lid so that it clears the scuttle at the back when the lid opens but I had forgotten about the bonnet hitting it at the front. I my have to trim that seal even more.

 

I'll mail you a couple of pictures if Photobucket is not cooperating.

 

Stan

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Looking at the pictures now I think you could move the pull knob and wire in a little more though the flap does look as if it may be sitting low enough in the closed position to miss the bonnet (hood) on opening provided the bonnet (hood) to scuttle gap isnt too narrow.

Stuart.

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Stan, you must be getting excited with the way it's coming together, will you be finished before winter sets in? i bet you can't wait;

Graham

 

There is a possibility that I will get the body back together this year. Lots of small details still to attend to like welding up the wing mirror holes as I decided not to use them. Also need to mount the left hand door and then check the sidescreen frame fit before I send those off for rebuilding . This week I spent two days backing off the tub to frame bolts and re-shimming the tub to fix a chronic problem with the right hand door. It did not close when I bought this project and as Stuart will verify we have exchanged dozens of emails over the last few years discussing that door.. Also finished the boot trim this week. The top is pretty much done, still have to get some velvet material to put on the bows and I have not yet done the tonneau or the hood stick cover. Seats are also not yet rebuilt but the pans are solid. Cant finish the interior until the front wings are installed but those side panels are the only pieces not installed. I think the glove box will be one of the last bits. So much to do.. so little time.. We have had a great summer here and lots of opportunities to get out in the TR6. Hard to believe I have been working on this TR3A for almost 5 years.

 

Stan

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The easiest way of fitting the scuttle vent is to remove the flap and that gives you plenty of room

to connect the operating rod. Once connected, replace the flap and Bob's your Uncle!

It worked easily for me.

 

Tom.

But to adjust the rod properly you do need the flap fitted.

Stuart.

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I dont think you can adjust the rod while the lid is fitted, but you need to fit the lid to check the rod length. So it an iterative process of adjust, fit lid, rinse, repeat. This is where it would be helpful to hear from the person who installed these at the factory, how did he or she do this dozens of times a day on the production line.

 

Stan

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ok, the mystery of the operating rod is now solved. For whatever reason, the tube that carries the wiper drive cable runs smack across the middle of the hole where the vent operating rod goes through. I had a choice of going over it or under. I went under.

 

The route that the rod was now taking was preventing the end of the plastic knob from going fully into the hole which caused the rod to be half an inch shorter than it should be.

 

By routing the rod over the wiper tube the knob goes fully home.

 

So Stuart, you were right on the money, that knob was sticking out too far and there was a reason.

 

Stan

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