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TR6 find chassis number


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Hello,

 

I'm currently having my TR6 PHM863L repaired by a local garage in Eynsham Oxford. When she went to have her MOT done the testers requested to have the chassis number but could not find it. I've owned her for over 35 years and have never come across this problem before. I've heard the number could be also on the body. Can anyone please advise where the best place to look?

 

Many thanks

Gary

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Hi Gary

 

Your commission plate should be on the left hand door post, assuming your car is around 1973.

Edited by Kevo_6
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... and on the left hand wheel arch (inside the engine bay) if a CP model. I agree with Kevo that I think they are referring to the commission plate number and not the chassis number.

 

Cheers

Dave

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It will also be on the last MOT Certificate and the V5 (Logbook)!

 

The Chassis Number is on the Commission Plate. If the commission plate is missing I advise you to get a new one made as it saves a lot of questions from 'officials' that don't know our cars. Someone will no doubt correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure there is no 'Chassis Number' actually stamped into the chassis itself.

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Correct, chassis does not have a number stamped on it, well not on any of the tr6 that I've had, 6+. Commission plate has chassis no.

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Chris and Robin,

 

Concerning this point, few exceptions may exist on specific market out of UK. FYI some markets are requesting the comm. n° not only on the comm. plate but also to be stamped/engraved on the chassis/frame.

 

For example for the TR6 (and it may not be the case for all cars) manufactured (CKD) in Malines/Belgium for the French market on top of the standard comm. plate (on the left hand wheel arch inside the engine bay for a CP model), the comm. n° is also directly engrave on the chassis/frame (not the body) on the RH side on the engine bay area on top of the RH rear front susp. bracket.

This is what I noticed on my TR6 comm. 1CP53xxxLP and on few others in France and it also an information valid for the TR5 CKD Malines.

 

Regards

Edited by Marc R
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There is no chassis number, as such.

However, it has been documented/photographed that some cars have a chassis stamping, located on the frame near the front cross member, in front of the engine location. One might have to scrape away some crud to find this number.

 

There is a 'commission number' which should be located on the 'B' post, visible when the door is opened.

This 'commission number' may also be located on the top of a front wheel arch, when the bonnet is up.

On some cars (USA models), the 'commission number' was afixed to the windscreen post, also.

The commission tag should also include the paint code and build date.

This is most likely what your after.

 

An 'engine number' is located on the left rear of the engine, just below the cylinder head.

A 'gear box number' is located on the L.H. side of housing.

A 'rear axle number' is located on the hypoid housing flange.

 

A bare metal stamping of the 'body number' is often located on the bulkhead/ firewall.

This was attached to the car after the chassis and running gear had been mated.

 

A 'tub number' (body in white number)- not recorded by the factory on build records because built by an independent contractor when the non-moving sheet metal was welded together- is located as follows:

1968-70: underside of the rear wheel arch on a flat section near the bump stop;

1970- 72: top of the front RHS wheel arch;

late 1972: bulkhead & painted.

Also found on top front valance on some cars.

Edited by Sapphire72
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If any of you have had your car restored or painted, ensure that they riveted your Commission plate back in position, not fastened it with self-tapper screws, as I have seen on some cars!

 

The Police can attended Auctions to check and I have seen cars withdrawn for that reason!

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There is no chassis number, as such.

However, it has been documented/photographed that some cars have a chassis stamping, located on the frame near the front cross member, in front of the engine location. One might have to scrape away some crud to find this number.

 

There is a 'commission number' which should be located on the 'B' post, visible when the door is opened.

This 'commission number' may also be located on the top of a front wheel arch, when the bonnet is up.

On some cars (USA models), the 'commission number' was afixed to the windscreen post, also.

The commission tag should also include the paint code and build date.

This is most likely what your after.

 

An 'engine number' is located on the left rear of the engine, just below the cylinder head.

A 'gear box number' is located on the L.H. side of housing.

A 'rear axle number' is located on the hypoid housing flange.

 

A bare metal stamping of the 'body number' is often located on the bulkhead/ firewall.

This was attached to the car after the chassis and running gear had been mated.

 

A 'tub number' (body in white number)- not recorded by the factory on build records because built by an independent contractor when the non-moving sheet metal was welded together- is located as follows:

1968-70: underside of the rear wheel arch on a flat section near the bump stop;

1970- 72: top of the front RHS wheel arch;

late 1972: bulkhead & painted.

Also found on top front valance on some cars.

Yes it is also my understanding, there is no chassis number as such. The information I am providing concerning the TR6 manufactured CKD in Malines at least for the French market is just the comm. n° engraved on the chassis, certainly for compliance with the local regulation.

 

Regards

Edited by Marc R
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Right you are, Marc!

 

Triumph stamped the chassis of LHD TR6's which were exported to Europe, and all of the CKD kits for assembly in Belgium, with the 'commission number'.

 

 

There was also a chassis stamping, or plate, that was riveted, or welded, to the chassis on some cars.

Derek Graham has seen this on 1972, and later cars, when the factory recorded this number.

Chassis numbers Derek has recorded are between: D1107 - D19265.

 

There are three locations for this chassis stamping or plate:

1) on the front cross member, under the engine. This cannot be seen unless the engine is removed;

2) vicinity of the right side frame rail and the right side shock tower;

3) on the top of the left side frame rail, along side the engine, and visible from above.

Edited by Sapphire72
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Hi Sapphir72 (have you a name?)

 

FYI on my current TR6 (1CP531xxLP '71, CKD Malines) the chassis plate (rectangular 6 x 1,6 cm) is on the front cross member, under the engine. This plate is welded and with stamp "D3".

 

Regards

Edited by Marc R
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Name is under my avatar, Marc. Just "D3"? That is an early chassis number, hope that Derek sees this. He has reported the earliest as 1972 model year. Thank you for verifying what my research has unearthed. Regards, Walt

 

 

...............

Thanks, Jean. That's the commission number plate attached to the chassis.

That's what the original poster of this thread was asking about (I think).

 

..................

Bulkhead numbers:

The painted number is the 'body in white' number (attached before the body is painted, so it gets painted).

The unpainted plate is the tag affixed after the body and running gear are mated (after painting, so it is not painted).

I refer to it as the 'body' number.

post-13442-0-33078800-1438121529_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sapphire72
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@ Jean,

Exactly same location and same stamp format ours TR6 CP are both CKD Malines. One day when my TR6 will be back on the road we will have to meet as ours TR6 are also both Jasmin Yellow.

 

@Sapphire72 ,

Bizzare I do not see your name under the avatar! It is maybe because I am not a TRR UK member , just a Forum TRR UK member.

Thanks' for the information related to the comm. n°, Body n°.... I am curious and like this sort of details

Yes, just D3! Agree with you this n° is very small .

 

Regards

Edited by Marc R
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@Sapphire72 ,

Bizzare I do not see your name under the avatar! It is maybe because I not a TRR UK member , just a Forum TRR UK member.

 

I am a TRR member and I didn't notice Sapphire72's name but now we know it is Walt, I can see it directly after 'Cars Owned'

 

Until now, due to the resolution of my screen I thought it said Wait :lol:

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Whilst the conversation between the three non-UK residents is interesting and informative the original poster is in the UK and we assume has a UK car.

 

In the UK two things are true in this respect:

 

1/ The Chassis number is the number quoted on the commission plate. This number is the one quoted on the V5 Log Book as 'Chassis Number'. Therefore it must be (by Law).

 

2/ Whilst there may be the odd exception, for reasons that are not clear, in the UK the chassis number is not stamped on the chassis.

 

 

Ironically, this oversight makes it pretty easy to use a second hand chassis to restore a TR, even though this practice is technically illegal.

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Whilst the conversation between the three non-UK residents is interesting and informative the original poster is in the UK and we assume has a UK car.

 

In the UK two things are true in this respect:

 

1/ The Chassis number is the number quoted on the commission plate. This number is the one quoted on the V5 Log Book as 'Chassis Number'. Therefore it must be (by Law).

 

2/ Whilst there may be the odd exception, for reasons that are not clear, in the UK the chassis number is not stamped on the chassis.

 

 

Ironically, this oversight makes it pretty easy to use a second hand chassis to restore a TR, even though this practice is technically illegal.

Good reminder Ragtag, you are correct "the original poster is in the UK and we assume has a UK car" my point was more to be informative" and highlight variances out of UK and my 1st message started with "Concerning this point, few exceptions may exist on specific market out of UK" and I apology if I disturbed the UK residents.

 

Regards

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Tell your MOT guy to look up the rule; 6.3 VIN in his MOT rules bible. ;)

It is not required to be present on vehicles 1st use before 1st Aug 1980.

An advisory saying cannot be found or is missing is all he can do,he cannot fail it.

If your plate is missing then its easy to get a repro and get it stamped up.

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