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Just noticed a little bit of surface rust on the edges of the lower parts of the wheel arches near to the sills.

It needs to be cleaned off, treated & repainted. What are people using these days as a rust treatment & preventer? Need something good to treat the rust, prime & then repaint in the body colour with brush.

Cheers.

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Thanks for that Andrew. Do you just apply it & then paint over in body colour?

Seen POR15 advertised. Any knowledge of that?

Regards.

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...Seen POR15 advertised. Any knowledge of that?...

 

I've used POR-15 many times, on several vehicles (including my TR3B) and various things around the house. It definitely performs as advertised, and POR-15 is one of the best rust-encapsulating treatments I've ever used.

 

It doesn't require a lot of surface preparation -- rough is fine for POR-15, and even a little rust is OK. As an example, I treated the windscreen channel on my old Jeep XJ Cherokee .(it had gotten rusty, probably from a ham-handed windscreen change when a friend had it before me -- the car spent a lot of time in the Rockies, and used to go through windscreens regularly) and when I had it apart for another windscreen five or seven years later the channel was exactly as the day I treated it.

 

I've NEVER had rust come back on a POR-15 treated part when the part was fully painted. That Cherokee diid have rust re-appear a few years after POR-15 painting of the lower door edges. I expected that, frankly -- I wasn't able to do surface preparation of any quality inside the door, and trying to paint the lower seam where the inner and outer skins meet at the drains just seemed too much to ask -- and it was, at least after a few years. That would be my concern on your car, monty. It all you have is surface rust, POR-15 plus a topcoat will work a treat. But it would really surprise me if that's the only corrosion present on a TR4/4A wing where wheel arch meets sill. I'd expect the rot to go deeper. There's a reason those patch panels are made...

 

Note also that POR-15 is a b**tch to work with -- there's no free lunch. It's very hard to spray (not recommended), and not especially easy to brush. It brushes on with a lot of drag and brush marks, which will reflow and become smooth when left alone. It doesn't like to be reworked as a wet film, certainly not after the first couple of minutes. It dries to an impossible-to-remove coating, so I use disposable brushes, rubber gloves, and a lot of care. It cleans up with white spirit while wet, but after it's dry -- only abrasion will take it off. And that includes on your skin.

 

POR-15 (the best rust-encapsulating grades) are not UV stable. They'll dull and weather fairly rapidly in direct sunlight. They need topcoating for protection, and POR offers some instructions about what kind of re-coat times and surface prep are needed for this. POR do make some UV-stable colored grades for other applications, but they're not the same with respect to encapsulating rust.

 

So, a strong recommendation for ultimate performance of POR-15, a caution about handling and topcoating, and a warning to check your rust situation more carefully than you might think.

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Thanks for that Andrew. Do you just apply it & then paint over in body colour?

Seen POR15 advertised. Any knowledge of that?

Regards.

 

Monty,

 

On small areas it can be painted over when cured, but larger on surfaces it needs to cure for 48 hrs then washed off before painting.

 

Instructions for use are here: http://www.fertan.co.uk/how_to_use_fertan.htm

 

Cheers

Andrew

Edited by Andrew Smith
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Hi Monty,

the area of rusting that you have indicated it not really suitable for the POR product; you need something more delicate.

 

Remove the paint and rust encrustations (great word) - use a sharp blade or a Dremmel with a grinding disc.

If you have a grit blaster that can do spots then blast the surface.

Otherwise grind away all the visible muck.

Use a rust convert type rust stabilizer (even if you can't see any rust - it will be there) - Fertan, KuRust etc follow the instructions.

KuRust works fairly quickly. Once dry apply a primer. All normal 1K primers are porous so it you want to lock out the oxygen then use a 2K primer.

The top coat.

 

You could use Bondarust primer instead of the 2K primer as this works very well at sealing out the environment.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Hi Monty,

the area of rusting that you have indicated it not really suitable for the POR product; you need something more delicate.

 

Remove the paint and rust encrustations (great word) - use a sharp blade or a Dremmel with a grinding disc.

If you have a grit blaster that can do spots then blast the surface.

Otherwise grind away all the visible muck.

Use a rust convert type rust stabilizer (even if you can't see any rust - it will be there) - Fertan, KuRust etc follow the instructions.

KuRust works fairly quickly. Once dry apply a primer. All normal 1K primers are porous so it you want to lock out the oxygen then use a 2K primer.

The top coat.

 

You could use Bondarust primer instead of the 2K primer as this works very well at sealing out the environment.

 

Roger

Sorry Roger but what is a 2K primer? Any particular brand?
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If you have to ask then dont use 2K primer as its an Isocyanate product and not nice to work with. Bondarust would be better for you to apply once you have killed the rust. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=bonda%20rust%20primer&clk_rvr_id=870422954710&adpos=1s1&MT_ID=11&crlp=73112062751_2113181&device=c&geo_id=32251&keyword=bonda+rust+primer&crdt=0

Stuart.

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POR 15 does not stay well on an area that is already painted.

So it's OK for a whole part in bare metal.

But if you bring up to a "feathered edge" of existing paint and then overlap a bit it will peel off.

 

There are problems with storage if you have some left. It can make the lid irremovable if you get it in the joint.

 

If you get it thick anywhere there will be bubbles in the surface finish.

 

But it has the best adherance to metal of anything I've tried.

You can paint a washer. Do up a bolt on it and undo the bolt to find the paint intact.

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Hi Monty,

the area of rusting that you have indicated it not really suitable for the POR product; you need something more delicate.

 

Remove the paint and rust encrustations (great word) - use a sharp blade or a Dremmel with a grinding disc.

If you have a grit blaster that can do spots then blast the surface.

Otherwise grind away all the visible muck.

Use a rust convert type rust stabilizer (even if you can't see any rust - it will be there) - Fertan, KuRust etc follow the instructions.

KuRust works fairly quickly. Once dry apply a primer. All normal 1K primers are porous so it you want to lock out the oxygen then use a 2K primer.

The top coat.

 

You could use Bondarust primer instead of the 2K primer as this works very well at sealing out the environment.

 

Roger

Reading the Fertan instructions does not seem to mention a primer. Do I really need it on such a small surface (Bondarust £15 for 500ml!). If using will the white topcoat adhere ok?
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Hi Monty,

as I said get rid of all the visible rust.

Then use something like KuRust to kill the microscopic remains.

This can be painted over with primer.

The top coat.

 

As Stuart has pointed out 2K is a two part paint the hardens like something really hard.

Part of its make up are some rather nasty components. If you haven't used it before then best left alone.

 

 

Most Auto paint shops do BondaRust for apprx £12/Ltr. it really is very good.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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Hi Monty,

as I said get rid of all the visible rust.

Then use something like KuRust to kill the microscopic remains.

This can be painted over with primer.

The top coat.

 

As Stuart has pointed out 2K is a two part paint the hardens like something really hard.

Part of its make up are some rather nasty components. If you haven't used it before then best left alone.

 

 

Most Auto paint shops do BondaRust for apprx £12/Ltr. it really is very good.

 

 

 

 

Roger

 

Thanks again Roger. Think I will use the Fertan followed by the Bondarust primer & finished with the white body colour. Found reasonable prices via EBay for the small amounts I need.

Cheers.

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As Stuart has pointed out 2K is a two part paint the hardens like something really hard.

Part of its make up are some rather nasty components. If you haven't used it before then best left alone.

 

 

Although you can get a non-isocyanate 2k primer, just undercoated our TR4A with it and it's fine.

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I had an orrible experience with Fertan, search it to see my posts (although as usual, Roger said I was doing it all wrong !!!!!)

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Although you can get a non-isocyanate 2k primer, just undercoated our TR4A with it and it's fine.

So what is it, do you have a link for product info?

Stuart.

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Hmm looks like a sort of Synthetic to me, not sure I would like to use it or if it would hold up like a proper 2K primer.

Stuart.

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Here's my pennysworth......KuRust works for me. You only need to wet and dry it to smooth then apply and leave to dry.When it cures it turns black and the rust is gone then lightly wet and dry follewd by primer etc. Nit had rust reappear and used it for years. B)

Charles

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