SC3865 Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 Help please. I took my 71 TR6 off the road 10 years ago untouched in the meantime, and am now trying to get it up and running again. It has an original PI system but with a KMI MU. Before attempting an engine start I removed the MU and confirmed manual turnover was possible. MU seemed ok and could be spun with no resistance. MU has been replaced and new fuel tank fitted. Engine turns over ok but no fuel getting to injectors, pump sounds like it is functioning ok. Do I keep turning over in case it simply needs time to purge or how can I confirm where fuel is getting "blocked". Obviously nervous about fuel under pressure Thanks in anticipation. Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 PRV might be dumping the fuel flow. Give it a good thumping with pump on, or replace. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
k_raven_smith Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 After ten years the shuttles are probably stuck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John L Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 You might find that opening the pipes at the injectors to bleed the system, and then cranking until some fuel emerges. Make sure you take off the ignition lead from the coil so there will be not sparks. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted July 17, 2015 Report Share Posted July 17, 2015 With a PI, keep a fire extinguisher near to you :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Topoff Posted July 18, 2015 Report Share Posted July 18, 2015 Should just need the injectors bleeding. Remove the injector with I the shortest pipe first and crank the starter without the coil lead connected. Use a pair of pliers to pull the pin at the end of the injector. You should hear a hiss as the compressed air escapes and fuel should follow soon after. Then move on to the next shortest pipe and so on. When all show fuel pop them backin, connect the lead and cross your fingers. Good luck. Laurence. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 18, 2015 Report Share Posted July 18, 2015 My money is on the stuck shuttle above. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted July 18, 2015 Report Share Posted July 18, 2015 (edited) The engine and pi system will need a full rebuild.The fuel pipes front to back will be shot Edited July 18, 2015 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted July 20, 2015 Report Share Posted July 20, 2015 Before it actually fires, I presume you have changed the oil, put oil in the bores and spun it over without plugs and checked oil pressure ? There's a good chance some of the valves will be stuck (along with the clutch). And replace all the rubber fuel pipes as NTC says, modern fuels may not be compatible. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cj79 Posted July 26, 2015 Report Share Posted July 26, 2015 The PRV is pretty easy to dismantle and clean up, just remove the circlip at the top and work your way back. Mine was seized inside after being laid up for 16 years, a little tinkering and polishing of the internal components and it worked perfectly again. I wish i'd looked at it before trying the new fuel pump and blowing the diaphragm in my old MU though.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SC3865 Posted August 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 Bit the bullet and installed a "Bosch" replacement and new PRV from Malcolm at Prestige. Engine fired up almost straight away - hurrah. Sounds a bit lumpy but we're getting there Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted August 19, 2015 Report Share Posted August 19, 2015 I had a similar problem after only 18 months. The Bosch pump was making no pressure, and the diagnosis was that the ball bearings that constitute the vanes in the pump were stuck in their lands, by petrol residues. I cured it by adding double the normal amount of injector cleaner, plus some 2stroke oil in a small amount of fuel - 5 litres - in the tank, and running the pump so that it dumped the fuel straight back into the tank. This circular flushing released the balls after about twenty minutes of treatment, and pressure was resumed. I then pumped the 'flushing fuel' into a can marked "Lawnmower", refilled the tank, added the normal amount of cleaner and it's done fine ever since. Another time, I'd put something in the tank to protect the system. before the lay-up. Millers do "TankSafe"; I'm sure there are others. Yachties routinely fill up the tank for winter and add a "fuel stabiliser", so find a chandler? JOhn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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