underseal TR6

[Razza]

Hello Everyone

 

Would appreciate hearing your advice on diy unsealing, there seems to be a lot of different views. Initially I just want to coat the underneath and wheel arches and I was thinking of using Waxoyl but I read something recently which said the tacky finish picks up dirt a lot, so presumably its not that suitable for wheel arches and can get quite dirty over time?

I'm not too concerned about how long the coat lasts as I'm quite prepared to coat it as often as necessary.

 

Dinitrol products seem to have a good write up although I find it confusing as to which one is best.

At some stage I also want to treat the box sections and chassis but I have no access to compressed air. I know

aerosols versions are available but are they any good and how do you get access into the chassis?

 

Would just appreciate hearing about your experiences and views on the best products and methods used.

 

 

Thanks

 

Ray

[brucer]

I have used aerosols to treat my chassis. They come with a long plastic tube with a nozzle on the end. It is easy to push the tube through the holes in the chassis and twist the tube while spraying, to coat the inside of the chassis. My choice was Bilt Hamber Dynax S50.

 

Good Luck

Bruce

[D1070]

BH products do the job,-and its a messy one!,I've used both clear and black coloured products,agreed the Web site is not the best but the product,imho, certainly is,

cheers

Laurence

[Peter Cobbold]

I use Waxoyl, brushed on, and wheelarch liners. Exposed seams I cover in denzotape plus waxoyl. For inside the chassis I dilute it about 5-10% with white spirit, and also heat it up in bucket or two of boiling water for half and hour. It flows almost like water then.

[RogerH]

Hi Ray,

all the products work. All have their ardent followers. Waxoyl and Dinitrol are the popular ones.

 

Dinitrol comes in aerosol with a probe that gets to all places with suitable access holes drilled.

 

Waxoyl comes with a pressure sprayer that people seem to get on with - not me, bl**dy thing.

 

For the wheel arches you must seriously consider the fibreglass liners - Revington, Moss, Honeybourne et al.

For the exposed wheel arch waxoyl works well and is easy to re-do as is Dinitrol.

 

For the chassis you need to drill access all over the place. The holes need to be in the lower face of the chassis.

Use a long plastic rod to insert into the chassis to see where the internal baffles are. Each baffled zone needs an access hole.

BEFORE you drill holes get blanking plugs - apprx 1/2" dia.

 

Whatever wand you use it needs a decent nozzle to give 360' spray pattern.

 

There are companies that do this job for about £400 - worth every penny.

 

Roger

[barkerwilliams]

Ray,

 

I too use the BiltHamber aerosols.. The advantage is they are clear. Great on seams as it really creeps in and seals. But yes is tacky and dirt sticks. Incidentally I also use on my tractor and trailers and it really works well on the muck spreader keeping the seams and bolts protected from the aggressive urine allowing bolts to be like new and removable years later.

 

Alan